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  #16  
Old 06-08-2014, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Also, the heater is valved on the downstream side, so it doesn't need to be "on" to leak.
So, do you mean that under all conditions, there is coolant flowing through the heater core on its way to the radiator?

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  #17  
Old 06-08-2014, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 5cylinder View Post
So, do you mean that under all conditions, there is coolant flowing through the heater core on its way to the radiator?
The coolant won't be flowing if the monovalve is closed, but the heater core will be subject to the pressure present in the cooling system.

Unless one's sense of smell is significantly compromised, detecting a heater core leak while driving won't be difficult.
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  #18  
Old 06-08-2014, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The coolant won't be flowing if the monovalve is closed, but the heater core will be subject to the pressure present in the cooling system.
Ah, okay.
And is this right?: The monovalve is closed by default (no power is applied to it) but opens and allows coolant to flow to the heater core when power is applied (pushbutton unit is activated into Heat mode)?

-------

Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Unless one's sense of smell is significantly compromised, detecting a heater core leak while driving won't be difficult.
My sense of smell is working just fine.
Which then tells me: If I am not smelling coolant in the cabin, then there still must be a leak of coolant somewhere in the engine compartment.
Sheesh...what a puzzle and nuisance!

I still have the cooling system pressure testing tool so I may take another stab at the problem by re-pressurizing the system and looking for leaks again...
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  #19  
Old 06-08-2014, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5cylinder View Post
And is this right?: The monovalve is closed by default (no power is applied to it) but opens and allows coolant to flow to the heater core when power is applied (pushbutton unit is activated into Heat mode)?
The monovalve is closed electrically and is spring-loaded to the open position when not powered.
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  #20  
Old 06-08-2014, 11:10 PM
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Ah hah!
My understanding was only completely opposite of the facts. Facts duly noted. Now eating humble pie.

Thanks for steering me right!
:-)
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  #21  
Old 06-09-2014, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
The monovalve is closed electrically and is spring-loaded to the open position when not powered.
and if measuring with a meter, the monovalve will have +12v all the time the key is on, but the -12 is modulated by the climate control to energize the valve closed...
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  #22  
Old 06-09-2014, 01:33 PM
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If it really bothers you, switch to NPG and run the system at zero pressure. It would be a lot easier (and cheaper) than changing a heater core that is probably not leaking. If it was leaking enough to drip from the evaporator drain, you would definitely smell it and your windows would be fogged with the residue.
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  #23  
Old 06-11-2014, 07:30 PM
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vstech:
Thank you for the info. about the electrical. Got it.

rscurtis:
I'll plead ignorance: What would you mean by "NPG"?
Also, yes, I agree, if there was a heather core leak, I would likely be smelling the coolant and there is no such smell in the cabin.

Update:
I was conversing with a long-time M-B tech. in my town today and this is what he told me:
1. The expansion tank cap may not be holding pressure and could be causing a little leak. Consider replacing it. It was last replaced 9 years and 44,000 miles ago.
2. Check the tightness of the clamps for the hose coming off of the expansion tank.

So, I have a little more detective work to do.

Thanks-
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  #24  
Old 06-11-2014, 10:34 PM
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Just for kicks, stick the probe of a volt meter into the coolant and ground the other probe. Any voltage approaching .3V indicates electrolysis is going on and the coolant needs to be changed. So says the destructions in a heater core that I had. The core manufacturer was obviously trying to prevent premature warrantied failure.
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  #25  
Old 06-12-2014, 10:55 AM
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NPG- non-aqueous propylene glycol, or waterless coolant. Home » Evans Cooling. Watch the video with Jay Leno.
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  #26  
Old 06-12-2014, 11:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
If it really bothers you, switch to NPG and run the system at zero pressure. It would be a lot easier (and cheaper) than changing a heater core that is probably not leaking. If it was leaking enough to drip from the evaporator drain, you would definitely smell it and your windows would be fogged with the residue.
Where is the evaporator drain on a w123? ThNk you.
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  #27  
Old 06-12-2014, 11:24 AM
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The drain is inside the car, just above the transmission tunnel, behind the dash. There is typically a short foam piece that carries the draining condensate out of the car through a hole in the floor. It drips on top of the transmission.
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  #28  
Old 06-12-2014, 07:02 PM
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Sometimes the pressure tester itself leaks. Test again and consider it fixed unless you find wet, lose fluid or smell coolant.
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  #29  
Old 06-12-2014, 07:39 PM
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So, I have pressure tested the system three times:
The first time, I found several hose clamps (as I mentioned above) that were leaking due to not being tight enough. I tightened the clamps and eliminated the leaks.
The second time, I pressure tested the system about 14 hours after driving the vehicle. I kept the pressure on (none added) for about 30 minutes. No leaks found.
The third time, I pressure tested the system about 18 hours after driving the vehicle. I kept the pressure on (none added) for about 30 minutes. No leaks found.

As I also mentioned above, I plan to replace the expansion cap and check the tightness of the hose connected to the expansion tank.

At the present time, no signs of coolant found anywhere, no smells of coolant.
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  #30  
Old 06-12-2014, 07:47 PM
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Good stuff from the sound of it.

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