I took off the air filter housing today. The bottom side of it was caked with oil. Im just assuming right now but I think its coming from the turbo. Since the turbine on the turbo was in plain sight I inspected the teeth which look good but it did have a bit of play in it. So the turbo will have to be rebuilt in this process. I attempted to adjust the valves but my wrenches couldn't get the job done. (I honestly need a little help with this. I don't understand how to turn over the cam. If there is anyone in Greensboro NC that can help me out Id be glad to feed you and give you a 12-pack. WHOS IN????) Despite my failed attempt I power washed the housing then put it in the parts washer, sanded, then painted it to a new black matte finish. Lastly I finished up cleaning the rear seats, door panels and dash.

Did you read this valve adjustment procedure? I have found it is easiest to rotate the engine by the power steering pulley. There are some who will disagree but others who swear by it. Be sure to NEVER rotate the engine by the cam!

Mercedes Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedure

I found it is much easier to have the special wrenches or get some cheap 14mm wrenches and bend them yourself but it can be done without them. Since your injectors are out you should have a lot more room to work with the hard lines out of the way.

With all of the leaks in the turbo area I would bet the turbo oil drain is leaking and needs replacement. That job is a joy on the OM617 :roll eyes:

Contact member greazzer on here. He rebuilds injectors and will clean them up for you as well plus he isn't too far from NC I think.

I use the device on the pic, turns the engine over effortlessly.

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Yeah I have ready many DIY guides. I was turning the power steering bolt clockwise and it seemed like the cam was turning extremely slow. There wasn't much room because of the oil cooler line.... Funny thing is, I put the injectors back in right before I attempted the valve adjustment. So I guess I will back track a little and take those injectors out, maybe sand down the heads of wrenches and try again.


That things seems to be pretty neat. I did a quick search and found them for $20. This definitely will be ordered tonight!

Your power streering belt is likely slipping when trying to turn over the engine. I know that I've only had luck using the power steering belt to turn the engine on one car out of four I've done valve adjustments on.

The most sure fire way to turn it, when using hand tools, is to pull off the fan and fan clutch and turn the engine using the crankshaft bolt.

As for pulling the injectors back out, if you replaced the heat shields when you installed them as you are supposed to you'll need to replace them again if you pull the injectors back out. They are one time use. Just FYI. When using the crank bolt you can definitely turn the engine with the injectors IN so I'd try that first.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

Agreed, however a "special" box end is very handy.

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Yes, definitely. Good advice.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

Yes i replaced the heat shields. Do I have to replace them even if I haven't cranked the engine? The car is in limp mode.

At this point that remote switch is looking like a really good option. Does any have any negative feedback about those? I found one on Amazon for $14 shipped! Im gonna pull the trigger on that thing unless someone talks me out of it.

I picked mine up at the local AutoZoo.

You may get away with not having to use new HSs, but maybe not.

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Where does the device connect?

The heat shields deform when you torque down the injectors. You risk fuel leaks if you don't replace them.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

The junction box just in front of the battery.

The other post is from a 126, that's what I had on file.

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Cool. I will leave them. Lol. I dont need anymore leaks!


Oh thats sweet!!! Going by the store tonight.

Question: To avoid the car starting, can I take the strip fuse out of the relay?

Or will the car not even start because I have the fuel hard lines out??? THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!

If the fuel lines are not currently there, it won't start, but it will spit fuel out.

You can apply a LITTLE [6 to 8 inHg] bit of vacuum to the shut off actuator via a hand pump (mity-vac).

Or you can manually hold down the STOP lever on the Injection Pump.

However, you won't be spinning the engine enough to start, I would think.

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