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  #31  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:19 PM
MS Fowler's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Littlestown PA ( 6 miles south of Gettysburg)
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I am surprised that there is no better method of timing than the drip method---which is open to some interpretation.

I just got back from a weekend with my Ford IDI diesel buddies. ( Pre-PowerStroke 6.9, and 7.3 liter turbo and NA from 1983 thru 1994).
One of the guys always runs a "timing clinic" and checks timing. Pretty simple,---a probe on the crankshaft dampener, a sensor on #1 that picks up the injection pulse, 12V and a ground wire. Digital display of RPM and timing degrees.
If Ford,International or Snap-On can come up with that simple system, why can't MB?

By the way, if you want a really good injection shop where the Owner positively backs up all his products, look up Conestoga Diesel in Willow Street, ( Lancaster) PA. Mel ( Moose) Agne is the Owner.

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  #32  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:33 PM
DIY OCD
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 120
Yes. I'm at 24 btdc. I've done this several times, hence my frustration. Over a year ago, I replaced the oil filter canister gasket and the IP gasket. I had a hard time retiming it then, but ever since then it's shaken a lot at idle, especially warm, so I figured it was slightly miss timed. This time, though, i just can't seem to get it.
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  #33  
Old 07-09-2014, 08:57 PM
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I posted this about 12 years ago. You might try it just to be double certain the timing is right on. You don't have to loosen the IP, which reduces the chances you'll damage the gasket and have to pull the whole IP off again.


You might try leaving the IP where it is and while pumping turn the crank with a large breaker bar very slowly. That's the way I timed my 240 and my 300 after all sorts of fun trying to do it with the bubble method.

If everything is ok, you will find a point as you rotate the crank where the flow cuts off abruptly. It might not stop completely but you will see it slow down very clearly. Try it several times until you get the hang of it. Then just read the advance off the marker.

My 300D was about 4 or 5 degree too far advanced and that caused a lot of black smoke at idle. Since timing chain wear would only retard the start of delivery, this was caused by a mechanic who didn't know what he was doing trying to "tune" the car.

My 240, which hadn't been touched by anyone was about 2 to 3 degrees retarded caused by timing chain wear. When IP timing is retarded, the engine runs very smoothly at idle but smokes some at high speed.
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  #34  
Old 07-09-2014, 09:05 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Columbia, MO
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So I just did some quick calculations, factoring in the time I've wasted messing with this thing, and I realized the opportunity cost of continuing to mess with this vehicle is not worth it, considering I don't need it. I'm posting it for sale in the For Sale section. If anyone in this thread wants to make me offer, PM me, and I'll send you a thorough list of the various things I've replaced and fixed, and the various things that are currently not working or in need of repair. Thanks all.

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