1983 Euro TD project thread - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Benzasaurus · #31 07-04-2014, 11:17 AM

Great! Thanks for the quick reply. Is it ok to top it up with bottled water in the meanwhile?

funola · #32 07-04-2014, 11:18 AM

There's a few things I didn't check since I was preoccupied with getting the engine to run at normal speed. A checklist would have been useful.

I'd suggest just topping off the expansion tank for now with water and drive it and monitor all fluid levels. I feel it is important to put miles on it (before doing any work) to get a feel and baseline on how it is running since the car is new to you. Having old fluid with correct levels is ok short term.

funola · #33 07-04-2014, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benzasaurus

Great! Thanks for the quick reply. Is it ok to top it up with bottled water in the meanwhile?

Yes, but I'd use tap water and drink the bottled water.

You know do not open the expansion cap with a hot engine right?

For now, you can take the expansion tank out and soak it in CLR cleaner and it will get rid of the deposits and make the level legible again. But it is better to just buy a new tank. They are not very expensive.

MTUpower · #34 07-04-2014, 11:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

Just like changing all the other fluids to get a fresh start, the coolant would be no different. I would pressure test the system and fix any leaks, and then flush the entire cooling system before putting fresh coolant in.

X2- with only Zerex G-05 coolant

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benzasaurus

Great! Thanks for the quick reply. Is it ok to top it up with bottled water in the meanwhile?

Yep any bottled water is fine for now- because it'll be replaced when you flush the system. Then you fill it up with the proper mix of G-05 and distilled water.

I went to Miami and looked at a 82 wagon but it was not in good enough shape IMHO so I passed. It may sell I think for close to the asking of $4200, but it was too much $ for the car.

Benzasaurus · #35 07-04-2014, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Yes, but I'd use tap water and drink the bottled water.

You know do not open the expansion cap with a hot engine right?

For now, you can take the expansion tank out and soak it in CLR cleaner and it will get rid of the deposits and make the level legible again. But it is better to just buy a new tank. They are not very expensive.

Ok, that goes on to the parts list.

And yeah, I know about the steam burn thing. I remember hearing a story about how my grandfather scorched himself doing that with either a w120 or a Zastava in the past. (Benz no longer in family, Zastava is.)

I've just read conflicting things about whether you're always supposed to put in distilled water or you can put in tap. But if it's already limed up, I guess I may as well.

Thanks for the info—and for checking I knew about the scorching thing. That is exactly the type of thing I wouldn't know.

Ok, the plan now is we'll drive the wagon around and get to know it and work on cleaning it before doing anything substantial. Also have an appointment to visit a bodyshop on Monday afternoon and will make arrangements to visit another one maybe the following week.

Thanks for the info on Zerex G-05. It looks like it's ethylene glycol based. Is there any reason not to use propylene glycol based antifreezes? I don't know much about antifreeze.

funola · #36 07-04-2014, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benzasaurus

.................. Also have an appointment to visit a bodyshop on Monday afternoon and will make arrangements to visit another one maybe the following week.

...........

I was hoping JB3 and Graham, who have both done extensive rust repair on W123's, would weigh in on the rust situation after looking at your pics.

2014 1st July Morning Photos by benzasaurus | Photobucket

cek1 · #37 07-04-2014, 01:45 PM

My best advice would be to find an indy Mercedes Benz shop and pay them to test drive and look it over. Have them list it's needs. They'll put it up on a lift, push and pull on everything and can check the actual structural rust. For probably a one hour charge, you'll gain tons of piece of mind, know the real rust situation, and have list to check off as you go. You may get some things on the list that will be discouraging because of the work involved but at least you will know. Evaluate all the info and decide what you'll do yourself and what you may want to save and pay someone to do.

toomany MBZ · #38 07-04-2014, 01:47 PM

If you do a coolant flush, go with distilled water, no minerals to contaminate things in the future.

TheDon · #39 07-04-2014, 02:07 PM

If you pick up a set of the depo euro spec headlights(knock offs) they have vacuum adjusters and are rather well built

ROLLGUY · #40 07-04-2014, 02:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

If you pick up a set of the depo euro spec headlights(knock offs) they have vacuum adjusters and are rather well built

I had a set of those, and they did NOT have the vacuum adjusters in them. Everything else was an exact copy. I bought them to use one of the lenses on my Bosch set.

Mölyapina · #41 07-04-2014, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benzasaurus

Disappointing about the headlights. BUT the 300D has American style lights. Maybe time to switch them?

You mean European style

?

Also, distilled water was a couple bucks the last time I checked. If you're at the grocery store or somewhere else that sells it, can't hurt to pick it up use it -- and even carry the remainder in the car in case you start losing coolant on the road.

cooljjay · #42 07-04-2014, 03:28 PM

Some depo's do have the vac adjust some don't and yep everything will interchange with the bosch units...

ROLLGUY · #43 07-04-2014, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

Some depo's do have the vac adjust some don't and yep everything will interchange with the bosch units...

I must have gotten the ones without then.

Benzasaurus · #44 07-05-2014, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

If the PO have no records of doing these maintenance items, then do them. Can you post a pic of your IP from the exact angle like pic below. I forgot to look that night.

Just looked at the photo I took of the IP yesterday. Are you after the numbers? The numbers are totally obscured by grime in my photo. I'll clean that area off later this morning and re-take if so. I think I can reach it with the long surgical clamps.

Going to spend today and tomorrow cleaning and trying to get it into better shape overall. Added water (not distilled) to coolant. Anticipating a coolant flush in less than a couple of weeks. I saw on the dieselgiant site something about citrus flushes etc. Is this heresy or a good idea?

And yep, the 300D has Euro lights—so we may have to switch them.

Focusing on cleaning for now to get it into shape, and then.... there's lots to be done.

Mölyapina · #45 07-05-2014, 08:39 AM

Yup, the citrus flush is straight from the FSM! I actually looked it up in my 1976 FSM, and it prescribes a "de-oiling" that it says should take place before you attempt "decalcification/de-rusting" (their name for the citrus flush). You should have it in your FSMs under the Engine Cooling section in one of the engine manuals. I'm curious whether your FSM also prescribes the de-oiling or if this is some W115 thing.