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  #16  
Old 07-14-2014, 01:52 AM
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Well.....my fingers are crossed.

I went out on a limb and bought rear main seal conditioner made by Bar's Leaks.

I've never seen a high mileage oil for diesel engines so I figured somebody surely sold the same seal swelling additive by itself.

I added it to the oil and let the engine run for about twenty minutes yesterday.

Today I fired it up and it still smoked like hell.

The bottle says that you should see results in two days of driving or 100 miles.

So, I drove it on a 60 mile round trip to see if that would help.

When I started the trip it smoked like it always has.

At the halfway point I noticed zero smoke except minor diesel smoke when I got it up to 3K rpms.

When I finished the trip I did it again and saw no smoke.

I also checked for blowby from the oil filler cap and saw much less than there was before.

There was still was a little but it greatly diminished and that blew me away.

So, I'm assuming the valve seals and/or guides are rubber?

I'm going to do the same trip in a day or two to see double check my results.

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  #17  
Old 07-14-2014, 06:07 PM
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Interesting. Does the bars leak product state on the label only good to swell seals? Or does it claim other functions as well? Is there any components mentioned or are the components secret for product reasons?

I was really wondering if there was some water glass in the product. Water glass might catch a head gasket leak by fusing it shut. The stuff reacts best to high heat. It can only be introduced through the coolant fluid though I thought. At the same time I have no ideal if a product put into the oil could contain it. I suspect not for many reasons.

Old valve seals are usually very hardened with age or broke up. Really worn guides may even separate the seals from the guides once the wear is past the top recess of the guides. I I would not expect a product to catch or make a major improvement with the valve train components.

At least this is a solid indicator the cylinder bores, pistons and rings where not worn out..

Also oil going down the valve guides would not show as excess blowby. Although it could add some. It would only mostly show as excess oil consumption and smoke out the tailpipe. So there is also a chance the product managed to clean up the rings somehow. Again I would like to know if possible what chemical components are in the product.

After thinking about this for a minute or two. In combination with the highway drive and perhaps some solvent in the product. The most likely scenario in my mind is you got the piston rings loosened up with a combination of a few things. I cannot easily buy the valve seals but am not certain.

Last edited by barry12345; 07-14-2014 at 06:42 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-14-2014, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry12345 View Post
Interesting. Does the bars leak product state on the label only good to swell seals? Or does it claim other functions as well? Is there any components mentioned or are the components secret for product reasons?

I was really wondering if there was some water glass in the product. Water glass might catch a head gasket leak by fusing it shut. The stuff reacts best to high heat. It can only be introduced through the coolant fluid though I thought. At the same time I have no ideal if a product put into the oil could contain it. I suspect not for many reasons.

Old valve seals are usually very hardened with age or broke up. Really worn guides may even separate the seals from the guides once the wear is past the top recess of the guides. I I would not expect a product to catch or make a major improvement with the valve train components.

At least this is a solid indicator the cylinder bores, pistons and rings where not worn out..

Also oil going down the valve guides would not show as excess blowby. Although it could add some. It would only mostly show as excess oil consumption and smoke out the tailpipe. So there is also a chance the product managed to clean up the rings somehow. Again I would like to know if possible what chemical components are in the product.

After thinking about this for a minute or two. In combination with the highway drive and perhaps some solvent in the product. The most likely scenario in my mind is you got the piston rings loosened up with a combination of a few things. I cannot easily buy the valve seals but am not certain.
Here's the link to the technical data sheet:
http://barsproducts.com/system/pdfs/404/original/1040%20Tech%20Sheet.pdf?1377268569

Here's the one for the MSDS:
http://barsproducts.com/system/pdfs/332/original/1040%20SDS.pdf?1377276705

It claims to renew seals and it has polymers in there too that lube further
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  #19  
Old 07-14-2014, 09:40 PM
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Ok...after letting it run for ten minutes or so I went out to rev it a little and there was a pretty sizable plume of smoke after I first revved up the engine.

After that there was a little but still much less than before.

The bottle says 100 miles or two days and I'm at neither benchmark yet.

It also says one bottle treats five quarts. I'm not positive of the capacity of the 2.2 so that may still be a little shy of what's needed.

I did notice that there was some oil consumption but less than I have previously seen on this round trip I take to see if what I've done has worked.

I would say that it used maybe 1/3 to 1/2 as much as I saw on previous loops.

I'll keep hacking away at it before I take the plunge and get a 2.5T to replace the 2.2.

BTW, what all would I need to make that swap?

Same engine mounts?

Flywheel?
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  #20  
Old 07-14-2014, 10:25 PM
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I would at least try the valve stem seals before swapping an engine, unless you've just been looking for an excuse to swap in a 2.5T .

I believe the FW is the same. Don't know about the motor mounts, but you can check part #s for a 1984 190D and a 1987 190D on Pelican to see if they are the same. I'd probably just replace the mounts during a swap anyway. You'll probably want the diff from the 2.5 Turbo, too -- I believe the 2.2 is a 3.46:1 and the 2.5 Turbo is a 2.65:1?
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  #21  
Old 07-15-2014, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
I would at least try the valve stem seals before swapping an engine, unless you've just been looking for an excuse to swap in a 2.5T .

I believe the FW is the same. Don't know about the motor mounts, but you can check part #s for a 1984 190D and a 1987 190D on Pelican to see if they are the same. I'd probably just replace the mounts during a swap anyway. You'll probably want the diff from the 2.5 Turbo, too -- I believe the 2.2 is a 3.46:1 and the 2.5 Turbo is a 2.65:1?
I believe the W201 came with a 2.5 turbo manual 5-speed in Europe but only as an automatic in the US. IMS, the European manual had a 3.28 or there about diff. Having swapped a 5-speed into an '87 2.5 turbo, a 3.46 diff would be too short IMHO.
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2014, 09:50 PM
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I wonder if the 2.2 and 2.5 flywheels are of different weights, like the 240D and 300D flywheels.

Also, here's all the different W201 trnny and diff ratios: W201 Diesel vs Gasser trans & rearend ratios?
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  #23  
Old 09-01-2014, 07:03 PM
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I just wanted to post an update on my oil burning situation.

I drove the car 150 miles a few weeks ago and I had ZERO noticeable oil consumption.

Clearly I had a valve seal issue and the rear main seal reconditioner did the trick.

I love it when a plan comes together...

I have now replaced the engine mounts.

All I need now to drive it for work is to get it registered, inspected and a set of new tires installed.

I think I may also have a brake fluid leak somewhere but as I drive it I figure I will be able to easily track that down.

I look forward to 30+ MPG.
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  #24  
Old 09-01-2014, 08:36 PM
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that's sweet!

I hope the 2.2 gets 30+mpg's, as my 2.5 does... cresting 40mpg's on some trips... (I drive a LOT) most drives are under 80mph, but I hit it often...
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  #25  
Old 12-07-2014, 02:14 AM
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I just wanted to update this oil smoking situation.

I've not been driving this car except a little on weekends because I hadn't really trusted the Bar's leak stuff.

I would still smoke like hell for a while when I did get around to driving it and only after a hundred miles or so would it stop smoking...until I came to a stop and sat at idle for a while when it would smoke again on takeoff.

I really read the MSDS on that product and it's basically...nothing really.

So, I tried the Blue Devil rear main sealer today and it looks really promising.

I drove over 200 miles with no smoke or oil consumption.

You also don't have to keep adding it like Bar's tells you to do with each oil change.

Blue Devil makes the best overhauls in a can money can buy.
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  #26  
Old 12-07-2014, 02:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
that's sweet!

I hope the 2.2 gets 30+mpg's, as my 2.5 does... cresting 40mpg's on some trips... (I drive a LOT) most drives are under 80mph, but I hit it often...
I got 32mpg today going through partially hilly terrain at 80 mph for over 200 miles.

I'll take it.

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