Is it possible/ does it make sense? Is vacuum in any way necessary or helpful to the engine itself?

I don't know but stopping does come in handy at times...

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

There are a few systems that absolutely require it for drive-ability/safety.

First is the brakes. The vacuum pump provides the vacuum that powers the brake booster. Without vacuum it becomes very hard to brake.

Second is the transmission, on some models with automatics. Vacuum is used to control shift firmness. Without vacuum the transmission basically assumes you're always going full throttle leading to harsh shifts.

Otherwise, vacuum is just used for convenience items. Door locks, climate control, engine shut-off. Also, emissions equipment on later models.

If this engine is staying in the car, you can simply the vacuum system to lessen the points of potential failure. You can also consider installing an external electric vacuum pump as a few have done if you want to eliminate the engine driven vacuum pump.

If this is an engine swap, and the car you're swapping it in to is a manual transmission, you'll just need to hook up the brakes and engine shutoff.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

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Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

If your question is whether the engine itself sitting on an engine stand needs vacuum to actually run, the answer is no. But if it's in a car, you need vacuum for brakes, shutoff, transmission, and if you want climate control and door lock functionality, you need it too.

I went through the exercise of trying to eliminate the engine driven pump by going with an electric pump and determined that it was not feasible if the car was automatic.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

It's going into a 1967 Land Rover. No vacuum need there and i will operate the shut off valve manually.

No power assist brakes in that? If so then yeah, you should be fine.

You'll either need to leave the vacuum pump installed but plugged up, or find a way to remove it and install a cover where it was installed.

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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino

http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg

The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun
Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130

Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides!

You might want to look at my thread. I recently installed a block-off plate to get rid of the engine-mounted pump. Go back a few more pages and you'll see the installation of the VW electrically operated vacuum pump. While you can bypass the vacuum shut-off it wouldn't work in my situation as I need to engine to stop when the tech staff switches off the main battery power at the rear of the truck (it's a race truck). The cover needs that raised center as shown as the timing device fits in there so you can't just put on a flat plate. Anyhow, I detailed all this in excruciating detail.

I went to manual brakes - no idea if there's a conversion for Land Rover but there's a stock master cylinder PN for my S-10 so it was a piece of cake. I'll bet someone has determined a manual brake master for your set-up.

Other than that the guys have it covered - engine shut-off, trans, accessories......

Dan

On my 1983 300cd, I have eliminated vacuum to all users EXCEPT brakes, engine shut-off and transmission. Now door locks and climate control air routing are accomplished manually.

Make a much more accessible engine compartment. Purists may object but this is a daily driver, not a show car.

Attached Thumbnails

 

You need Vacuum for the Automatic Transmission Modulator, the Power Brake Booster. and the Engine Shutoff.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

You need Vacuum for the Automatic Transmission Modulator, the Power Brake Booster. and the Engine Shutoff.

EGR also.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Things are easy with proper guidance.

OM617Yota did a vacuum delete as well, since he was swapping into a 'Yota truck. Some folks do it for reliability in overland vehicles, since the stock pump can be suspect with it having an uncaged bearing. I'm sure plenty of folks will chime in with more detail.

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72% 1992 FJ80 + 17% 1983 OM617 + 10% 85/87/92 4Runner + *Eclipse/GMC = 100% Truck
(*<1%)
Build Thread: http://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-humble-fj80-om617-r151f-swap.759554/