r129 diesel conversion - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Druk · #**106** 08-21-2017, 06:58 AM

If it's of any help I used the standard 606 flywheel pick-up and passed it's signal through an ignition control unit from a W201 2.6 6cyl and it perfectly fires the 3 zap original rev counter. This on an R107 with OM606.962.

97 SL320 · #**107** 08-21-2017, 01:21 PM

Was this ignition control unit 5 inch square with a vacuum hose or 1" x 2" ?

Did you leave the ignition coil in the circuit and ground the output?

The 5" square unit is $$ an the other is likely used on other cars making it low $.

Druk · #**108** 08-22-2017, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Was this ignition control unit 5 inch square with a vacuum hose or 1" x 2" ?

Did you leave the ignition coil in the circuit and ground the output?

The 5" square unit is $$ an the other is likely used on other cars making it low $.

The control unit I have is approx 4"x3" and part number A008 545 61 32. Bosch number 0227 40067. It's identical to this except for a six cyl engine.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/0085459432-Mercedes-E-Class-Ignition-Module-A0085459432-008-545-94-32-/201679430365?hash=item2ef507e2dd:g:aAsAAOSwEK9XAVZD

The pick-up on the flywheel housing is in the top position on this 606.962 which is perpendicular to the DM flywheel and slightly offset to the front side of the teeth which makes me think it isn't 'seeing' the teeth but some other trigger point on the flywheel edge. I cannot remember what as it's now several years since it was installed.
The co-ax from the pick-up goes to the top port of the ECU and the multi-plug to the bottom right side has the following wires connected.
Brown/yellow...Ground.
Green/black...signal to tacho.
Black/yellow...switched +ve including 7.5amp fuse.

The port to the bottom left side (of the ECU) is empty.

There are no other connections to anything.

My vehicle was originally a 2.8 6cyl petrol engine as was the ECU from the 2.6 W201 so basically I was seeking to emulate the original rev signal from the ignition coil. The set-up was given to me by the Ignition/Electrical advisor to the Merc-Club-UK and I have no idea how it all works...but it does.

HTH.

97 SL320 · #**109** 08-22-2017, 05:53 PM

Thanks, this is the $$ EZL unit that is a ignition timing computer ( all the timing advance logic is in there ) . If I recall correctly, the empty port is for a plug in resistor that adjusts timing for varying fuel quality.

From your description the EZL internally generates a separate tach signal. Many other tachs look directly at coil negative for a signal. Your setup is a nifty way to solve the problem and I'd expect even a failing / failed EZL would work as I'm guessing most failures would be on the ignition coil driver side.

bkc · #**110** 09-21-2017, 08:15 PM

Now that I am back in the country, we finally got a chance to try to swap out the trannies. Removing the 722.500 was straightforward, as expected.

However, when we were turning the motor to remove the torque converter bolts, water spit out the exhaust (the turbo is currently in use on my daily driver while that turbo is out at GPopShop, so this was out the exhaust opening that feeds the turbo). Most likely cylinder one, since that was where some oil was spitting out the side of the headgasket back when we had the overrevving issues. Guess I blew the headgasket during all that. Was expecting to replace it before doing any real roadtrips (had the typical oil leak out the rear passenger side of the block), but was hoping to get things at least up and running and proven first. It feels like every one of my "later on" contingency plans is being needed now instead of later.

So... looks like instead of going ahead and working on installing the 722.618 tranny, I will instead be pulling the motor out and replacing the headgasket.

While the motor is out, I will also replace the oil pump chain, oil pan gasket, and front and rear crank seals (nothing obviously wrong with the seals, but might as well do the rear one while easily accessible and front will have to be replaced when doing the oil chain). Main chain, guides, and lifters were done by the dealership just a short time before that car got wrecked, so maybe a thousand miles or so at most on those. Might replace the oil level sender, if it is one that has to be done from inside the oil pan (although suppose could always be done later by removing the extended oil pan segment to gain access?).

Oh, and might as well replace the vacuum pump with the upgraded one (already confirmed a while back that it is an older style pump), since I'll have been doing so much else around there already.

Anything else I should plan to do while the motor is out? I don't want to go down the rebuild route. This project has already taken way longer than planned. Also, assuming no significant damage inside when we open it up, it was running great.

With the motor out, we will also try revisiting the motor mounts issue and see if we can get some more normal MB mounts to work.

Then, motor and tranny in, then measure driveshaft and hopefully get it adjusted/custom built, then get the tranny electronics working. Sounds so simple, right?

winmutt · #**111** 09-21-2017, 11:25 PM

You might want to see if the om605 mls hg works on the om602 like the 606 does on the 603.

bkc · #**112** 09-22-2017, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by winmutt

You might want to see if the om605 mls hg works on the om602 like the 606 does on the 603.

Tell me more! I assume this is an improved design? Is the MB om602 hg not mls? From a quick search online, looks like the 605 hg works on the 602, just need to modify one or two water holes.

Any particular brands recommended? Got a part number, or else what is a good year/model to use when looking it up in parts catalogs? I know the 97-98 E300 had the om606, but what had the om605?

winmutt · #**113** 09-22-2017, 06:32 AM

You'll have to find the part number from across the pond. I think the w202 was available in a 605 in Canada/mx but not sure.

97 SL320 · #**114** 09-22-2017, 04:55 PM

Before you take any of the motor apart, do a leak down test and look for air bubbles in the radiator.

If you are really installing a 722.6 , that is a electronic shift trans and you will need a controller.

bkc · #**115** 09-23-2017, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

Before you take any of the motor apart, do a leak down test and look for air bubbles in the radiator.

Replacing the head gasket was something I knew was going to be in the plan at some point. Has the classic right-rear oil leak, and the during the pseudo-"runaway" incidents, oil sprayed out the right side of the motor near cyl 1.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 97 SL320

If you are really installing a 722.6 , that is a electronic shift trans and you will need a controller.

Yup. Have the controller, software to adjust it, remote TPS to install (where bowdoin cable to tranny used to go), and speed sensor. (See previously in this thread.) Still need to get a shifter unit, and the speed sensor ring doesn't look like it is the right one so will have to get the guy (whipplem104) to get me the right one.

Benzman66 · #**116** 02-03-2018, 12:41 PM

You guys are great! I'm 90% finished on a 1995 TE wagon-1993 300D conversion! They said I couldn't do it, Ha, I'm driving it now and it now and it passed emissions after I told them it was a diesel. Only thing I haven't figured out is the temperature gauge, electric fans and the AC compressor that I think are tied together in the leftover wire spaghetti. Any thoughts, ideas or information would be greatly appreciated, thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by mach4

Nothing better than a diesel sports car!

I like to think of an engine swap as a two step process.

Step 1 is Fitment - This is the process of getting the engine/transmission/driveshaft in the car with the proper clearances and support. If it won't fit, nothing else matters.

Step 2 is Hook Up - Once you know everything fits, it becomes a matter of hooking everything up one system at a time - fuel, exhaust, cooling, control, gauges, climate, electrical, smog, vacuum, etc. and of course the diesel specific stuff - glow, shutdown.

There are quite a number of swap threads that will become a wealth of knowledge to you in thinking through your project.

My own build thread (617->107) - 380SL Diesel Conversion Project

Toyota Pickup - My Official OM617 Toyota Pickup Repower Thread

Studebaker Pickup - 1939 Studebaker coupe express

S-10 - I'm Back! S-10 OM617 Project

606 -> 107 - Not "another" diesel 107!!

These threads probably won't answer your particular questions, but they will provide insight into what is involved and the thinking process used to solve the myriad problems that arise in doing a project.

Please take lots and lots of pictures and document your project for the benefit of others that come after.

Speaking personally, my project would have been an order of magnitude more difficult without the insight, suggestions, ideas and support of this forum.

Good luck.

Oh, and don't forget to ensure that you understand the legal/regulatory issues in your area as it applies to your project so you don't get it done and then not be able to drive it.

bkc · #**117** 04-02-2018, 10:25 PM

Hey Benzman66. Congrats on getting it up and running. Mine keeps running into complications - hopefully will see the light at the end of the tunnel soon.

As to your specific situation, I can't offer much in particular, but if you pm me your email, I can send you the electrical diagrams you may need.

* Electric fans and AC compressor are tied together through relays and resistors, somewhat complicated in how they all interact.

* For temperature gauge, are you sure you are connecting to the gauge sensor and not one for fans, AC, or the ECU?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Benzman66

You guys are great! I'm 90% finished on a 1995 TE wagon-1993 300D conversion! They said I couldn't do it, Ha, I'm driving it now and it now and it passed emissions after I told them it was a diesel. Only thing I haven't figured out is the temperature gauge, electric fans and the AC compressor that I think are tied together in the leftover wire spaghetti. Any thoughts, ideas or information would be greatly appreciated, thank you

bkc · #**118** 04-02-2018, 10:34 PM

Current status on my r129/om602: pretty much what I said I needed to do in post 110.

Replacing head gasket (trying to remove the top slide rail pin currently) along with resealing the engine overall while it is out (again) and on a stand. Front and rear main seals, oil pan (especially since crossmember will block when in the car), intake, exhaust, etc. Will be replacing oil pump chain, since that was not done when main chain was done a couple thousand miles before the wreck. Also will check that vacuum pump is safe model.

Then remove the crappy stuff that previous mechanic built and see if I can use regular MB mounts and arms some way, since it really wasn't far from fitting as it was from the start. Then re-install motor, install 722.6 tranny and remote TPS, build 3-point rpm sensor for tach, modify ring (from whipplem104) that tells TCU the output shaft rpm to fit driveshaft end style, then see if all that can work, then measure well and send shaft out to have its length altered. Then, assuming that all goes well, a test drive!

charlesb2003 · #**119** 11-03-2018, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkc

Awesome project! Just wondering, where did you get the little bit of metal charge pipe to replace your EGR and mixing valve assembly? It looks like something from an exhaust shop perhaps. Thanks!

chuni959 · #**120** 09-06-2022, 09:50 AM

dare I ask what happened to this project? I figured lots of people had probably done this swap before but this was the only om606 r129 swap thread I came across.