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  #16  
Old 07-27-2014, 11:25 AM
vstech's Avatar
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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If you look at the front of the ps pump, you will see three bolt heads facing the front. The corresponding nuts are in the recessions on the back of the mount, in between the fuel lines... It's HARD to get at them without ujoints on extensions, be careful not to break the fuel lines.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #17  
Old 07-27-2014, 02:25 PM
ROLLGUY's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
If you look at the front of the ps pump, you will see three bolt heads facing the front. The corresponding nuts are in the recessions on the back of the mount, in between the fuel lines... It's HARD to get at them without ujoints on extensions, be careful not to break the fuel lines.
I think it is actually the other way around. On every MB I have worked on, it has been this way: Looking at the front of the PS pump, the nuts are visible, not the bolt heads. The nuts should be turned, not the bolts. I can imagine the torque it would take to turn the bolts if the nuts were really tight.
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  #18  
Old 07-27-2014, 03:20 PM
vstech's Avatar
DD MOD, HVAC,MCP,Mac,GMAC
 
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Location: Mount Holly, NC
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Hmm you may be right, I'll look at one of the 5 motors I have on stands in my shop...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #19  
Old 08-11-2014, 06:21 PM
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Location: Mesa, Arizona
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROLLGUY View Post
I think it is actually the other way around. On every MB I have worked on, it has been this way: Looking at the front of the PS pump, the nuts are visible, not the bolt heads. The nuts should be turned, not the bolts. I can imagine the torque it would take to turn the bolts if the nuts were really tight.
Rich, there was no way to get the two static bolts and the only ratchet I have is my torque wrench since my egg donor tossed my ratchet the one and last time she was here. Also, one bolt had to be turned out of the treadled portion of the mount. So now after two hours all I have to show is the power steering belt is off.

The A/C compressor bolts are even tighter, don't have nuts, and can't get a socket and torque wrench on them. I went at it with a dead blow hammer, but no luck. Any other ideas?

Thank you all in advance!
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1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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  #20  
Old 08-11-2014, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Rich, there was no way to get the two static bolts and the only ratchet I have is my torque wrench since my egg donor tossed my ratchet the one and last time she was here. Also, one bolt had to be turned out of the treadled portion of the mount. So now after two hours all I have to show is the power steering belt is off.

The A/C compressor bolts are even tighter, don't have nuts, and can't get a socket and torque wrench on them. I went at it with a dead blow hammer, but no luck. Any other ideas?

Thank you all in advance!
Forget the torque-wrench. You'll have to use a box or open-end wrench, socket, ratchet, breaker-bar, or whatever you can get in there to grip & turn those bolts. I think there's also a belt tension adjuster attached to one of the compressor bolts you'll need to loosen with a 10mm wrench.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #21  
Old 08-11-2014, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
Forget the torque-wrench. You'll have to use a box or open-end wrench, socket, ratchet, breaker-bar, or whatever you can get in there to grip & turn those bolts. I think there's also a belt tension adjuster attached to one of the compressor bolts you'll need to loosen with a 10mm wrench.

Happy Motoring, Mark
Mark, I guess not eating all day is affecting me... I simply was asking what is the best way to get enough torque on the bolts to get them out?

I was using a open end wrench and a hammer. Breaker bar will not fit since the auto can't be lifted of the ground.
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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  #22  
Old 08-11-2014, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Mark, I guess not eating all day is affecting me... I simply was asking what is the best way to get enough torque on the bolts to get them out?

I was using a open end wrench and a hammer. Breaker bar will not fit since the auto can't be lifted of the ground.
Normally, a torque-wrench is used to tighten, not loosen. Sometimes, If you don't have a ratchet with a handle to fit a bit of pipe, or a breaker-bar, you can get the box-end of a combination-wrench on the nut or bolt. Then hook the box-end of another wrench on the open-end of the first wrench for added leverage.
Is there a reason the car can't be lifted off the ground, or you just don't have a safe way to lift it so you can get under there? If the jack-ports are rusted away, you can get a pair of drive-on ramps for added working-room
It's going to be pretty tough wrestling with that AC compressor while the car is on the ground. It sounds like you need to invest in some tools and at least a pair of adjustable jack-stands.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #23  
Old 08-11-2014, 08:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
Normally, a torque-wrench is used to tighten, not loosen. Sometimes, If you don't have a ratchet with a handle to fit a bit of pipe, or a breaker-bar, you can get the box-end of a combination-wrench on the nut or bolt. Then hook the box-end of another wrench on the open-end of the first wrench for added leverage.
Is there a reason the car can't be lifted off the ground, or you just don't have a safe way to lift it so you can get under there? If the jack-ports are rusted away, you can get a pair of drive-on ramps for added working-room
It's going to be pretty tough wrestling with that AC compressor while the car is on the ground. It sounds like you need to invest in some tools and at least a pair of adjustable jack-stands.

Happy Motoring, Mark
Mark, thank you so very much for the help! I forgot about that trick... Maybe I willn't forget again... Apparently even my friends who I asked didn't know.

I had four axle stands. Two were borrowed and gave them back to the owner in Comufornia. I had two hear, but one apparently was stolen. I only have a one care garage and torn the place up and can't find it. I plan to get another set but like to make the auto drivable first.

All I need to do is get the compressor loosened, not all the way out.

Oh and I can get under unlifted cars just fine: lay on the ground and wiggle my way under.
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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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  #24  
Old 08-11-2014, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Mark, thank you so very much for the help! I forgot about that trick... Maybe I willn't forget again... Apparently even my friends who I asked didn't know.

I had four axle stands. Two were borrowed and gave them back to the owner in Comufornia. I had two hear, but one apparently was stolen. I only have a one care garage and torn the place up and can't find it. I plan to get another set but like to make the auto drivable first.

All I need to do is get the compressor loosened, not all the way out.

Oh and I can get under unlifted cars just fine: lay on the ground and wiggle my way under.
If you can find the one jack-stand to lift the one corner, that may be enough.
I can get under unlifted cars too, but sometimes there just isn't room for both myself, and a tool with adequate leverage.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #25  
Old 08-11-2014, 10:59 PM
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There's no way to stretch the AC belt over it's pulley, I have up and got it on as tight as possible and then with the part of the belt that wouldn't slip over at the 10 to 11 o clock position I bumped the starter over and the belt slopped into the groove. I have no idea how to remove the belt short of taking it off with the compressor.
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  #26  
Old 08-12-2014, 12:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro View Post
If you can find the one jack-stand to lift the one corner, that may be enough.
I can get under unlifted cars too, but sometimes there just isn't room for both myself, and a tool with adequate leverage.

Happy Motoring, Mark
Mark, the one jack stand idea was it! Thank you so very much!
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDon View Post
There's no way to stretch the AC belt over it's pulley, I have up and got it on as tight as possible and then with the part of the belt that wouldn't slip over at the 10 to 11 o clock position I bumped the starter over and the belt slopped into the groove. I have no idea how to remove the belt short of taking it off with the compressor.
I hate to say this, but your post made me feel a lot better... Thank you so very much!

It is a real pain, but one can loosen it a smidge and then force the belt on. Next time I do it, I will start with the adjuster and see if that works. I do know it will not take me six hours!

Now seeing this, does the belt have to be snug? Just tight enough so it doesn't slip?

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Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
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