Thanks I thought there was one on mine - if you say there isn't one then I'm sure you're right. Thinking about it - I guess added thickness next to spinning parts probably isn't required.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

After hiatus I'm back into her. Finally got the 616 out today, had to cut one of the engine mounting arms because DAMN MB for using the closest thing to a circle (hex) bolts to fasten arms to engine mounts.

Anyway, so I've heard I believe that the driveshaft needs to be shortened by exactly 4" to accommodate the extra cylinder? Need I measure, or can I throw the stuff in my truck tomorrow and take it to a shop, and provided that they can read a measuring tape, I will come back with the perfect size driveline?

What have folks done in terms of shift rod modifications? Cut and weld? Any advice on modifying those puppies? Anything where it's like, "man if I did it again, I would do _____?"

I think that's it for now, thank yous....

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'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter

Shift rods - how about just buying the correct ones either second hand or new?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Because to my knowledge they aren't exactly easy to come by in this country? I've heard of folks modifying them, but have never seen pics or descriptions, and I'm looking for any advice in this direction, thanks.

__________________
'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter

Well last time I looked there were available via the dealership.

I did send some to a forum member in the US of A a few years back but after the postage costs I don't think there was any "win" - and these days I've heard customs are a bit hotter on making sure that import duties are paid - it might come out as a more expensive solution...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Is anyone familiar with these driveshafts? Guy at machine shop says that because it's a flanged connection between the shaft and the actual flange (where shaft connects to tranny), he's hesitant to cut it and mess something up. Please advise. Thank you!

That's extreme. Next time just drill out the head of the cap screw with a drill 1 or 2 sizes larger than the shank.

__________________
CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

Extremity was in inverse correlation with patience at that point. Weighing options, the sawzall won.

How about that driveline???

Having swapped a OM617 engine into a 240d before, I may be of some assistance. the front section of your drive shaft will (obviously) need to be shortened. I had this work done by a very knowledgeable gentleman named AL from "drive line service of Sacramento" DLS of West Sacramento
As far as how much I regret to inform you that I forgot But something tells me I had my drive shaft, which was from a manual tranny 240d, shortened by 21 CM (dont quote me on that).

As far as the shift rods go I lined up the arms on the transmission and the floor shifter (so they are all in the neutral position) and then marked, cut, and threaded them. If you dont already have one you will need to purchase a M10x1.5 die and I also annealed the ends of the rods before I threaded them.

you may also want to take a squint at this thread in regards to having the proper gearbox cross member.

300d Manual transmission swap FYI

I found some pictures of the shift rods but it looks like I didn't take any of the drive shaft.

Thank you, 21cm = appx 8 1/4" so I think memory may be eluding you a little on this one The difference in engine lengths is 4", and I keep seeing that # whenever I run into driveshaft shortening lengths, but just wanted to make sure. Thanks for the reply.

In terms of the rods, I was wondering if I would have to cut and re-thread, or if it would be easier to cut and weld. Since they have those bends in them I think I'll just have to wait for the thing to be in there, and then line everything up and do like you say. Annealing, good idea!

__________________
'83 240D 4 spd. manual - Undergoing OM617 transplant - Soon for sale.

'97 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 4x4 5-spd. WVO - Not stock. - For sale!

'06 Sprinter

On my 617 Turbo install in place of the 240D, last thing I had to do was shorten the shift levers. I used my dremel for a cut off tool and cut precisely four inches out of each shift lever using as much as I possibly could of "straight line" in the levers as possible. I cut out the 4 inches, then taped the pieces together so the job wouldn't get mixed up. I also marked them at the cut as to proper placement at the time of welding. You don't want to rotate the placement very much. You should do that before you cut them. I no longer had a welder, so I went to the muffler shop in town. They do all kinds of welding in fabricating exhaust system, and I asked the manager if someone could weld them up for me. It took about 5 minutes and I think I paid him $20.00. It is not a critical thing to get right, just get 4" out of each and get it re- welded keeping the alignment the same.

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Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

Yah your probably right, that sounds more than slightly off...

I found that the last 15 cm or so of the shift rods was quite straight so it was easier to just cut the unneeded length right from the end and re-thread it.