Marilyn the 240D's OM617 Transplant... - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

WVOPWRD! · #61 06-08-2015, 11:23 AM

Well finally got the 617 in yesterday. Hands are a little bloody but it's in! Have most everything all connected and was wanting to do a test start with the thing actually in the car, and 2 things are happening (surprise): 1 is that the glow plug light is not coming on, what could cause this? Have 5 cyl harness and 5 cyl relay installed and all hooked up. Could be a bad glow plug no? Do I remember right from my first benz that it won't go on if 2 or more plugs are bad? I'll check all connections, but anything else?

THe other thing is that I hear a click from the starter, then all lights go off and power shuts off to all electronics. The only way to reset it is to disconnect, then reconnect battery. For the starter connection, the two big leads go on the top post right? Then the small little one is screwed into the passenger side-most connection.

Any hints? Thanks...

CTD · #62 06-08-2015, 11:36 AM

Interesting thing happening with your starter there, with a click of the solenoid followed by a lack of general electrical functionality that can only be corrected by re-seating the batty connectors. I just had the exact same thing happen this morning whilst working on the wiring for the starter in my 220D. I ended up tightening up the battery terminal connectors and the problem went away.

How is your starter hooked up by the way? Is it run off of the "gorilla" knob, or is it run off of a key-controlled relay?

If you really want to start up the engine right now, you might be better off just jumping the starter solenoid to the battery and saving the wiring details for later.

WVOPWRD! · #63 06-08-2015, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTD

Interesting thing happening with your starter there, with a click of the solenoid followed by a lack of general electrical functionality that can only be corrected by re-seating the batty connectors. I just had the exact same thing happen this morning whilst working on the wiring for the starter in my 220D. I ended up tightening up the battery terminal connectors and the problem went away.

How is your starter hooked up by the way? Is it run off of the "gorilla" knob, or is it run off of a key-controlled relay?

Keyed, also I don't really know what a gorilla knob is, guessing a DIY installed starting button?

I wire brushed the hell out of connections and tightened correctly, don't want to over tighten on those studs. I guess I'll pull them off and re-seat them for good measure.

With the 616 in there there was never this issue, I figure I must be missing something...

CTD · #64 06-08-2015, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WVOPWRD!

Keyed, also I don't really know what a gorilla knob is, guessing a DIY installed starting button?

I wire brushed the hell out of connections and tightened correctly, don't want to over tighten on those studs. I guess I'll pull them off and re-seat them for good measure.

With the 616 in there there was never this issue, I figure I must be missing something...

The "gorilla" knob is the "pull to start" knob that Mercedes put in the older W115 and W110 diesel vehicles. It controls the starter and glow-plugs.

Did you tighten your battery terminals by any chance? That's what I did this morning and my starter began functioning correctly. Did you also check continuity from the battery terminal to the starter's power supply? Might be too much resistance from a loose connection or damaged conductor (perhaps a wire was pinched or broken during the engine installation). Wiring issues like this are kinda weird....they often act up in odd ways.

WVOPWRD! · #65 06-08-2015, 11:59 AM

Hmm, no but you're right, I should tighten the battery connections too, i just plopped it on snug, but in my experience 90% of no-start issues are connectivity issues. I'll check that too.

Do I have everything connected correctly? Hard to see in pic, but there are two leads on the top + post, and the bottom post is - correct? Nothing connects to that except the ground strap to engine?

WVOPWRD! · #66 06-08-2015, 12:11 PM

UPDATE: Nevermind on the not starting part, CTD nailed it with the loose battery connections, thank you!

Still though, no glow plug light coming on. Fired right up though, and hasn't been started in about 5 months, barely even hiccuped from having new fuel supply hooked up.

I guess another part of the progress here is that I had the manual flywheel matched to balance for the auto flywheel ($200, ouch!!!!!), dude said it was expensive because it was time consuming.

Now just need to get driveshaft shortened, and apparently the only shop with the ability to hook up to merc drivelines is in Sacramento, at a shop that someone on here had already suggested. So that's next step. Gonna clean, drain, and re-fill tranny before she goes in, did some research here and it sounds like folks are either running the spec'd motor oil (10W30 I believe?), ATF, or Redline MTL. Anyone want to chime in with suggestions there?

Thanks again...

DeliveryValve · #67 06-08-2015, 01:12 PM

Glad your making progress and got it in.

charmalu used a company in San Jose to shorten his driveshaft. I think it is these folks.

Southbay Driveline

I would run ATF for your tranny. Unless there is some noises, then try something else.

CTD · #68 06-08-2015, 02:13 PM

Glad to hear the battery connections fixed your no start issue. Did it take a lot of cranking to get the engine going? If it didn't, I wonder if your glow plug light may be burned out or disconnected. I've had that happen to me before. Could be a problem with the controller too. Any blown fuses?

I also use ATF in the 4 speed manual transmission in my diesel Mercedes.

WVOPWRD! · #69 06-08-2015, 05:18 PM

Yep, SB driveline is the ticket! Thanks D Valve...

WVOPWRD! · #70 06-10-2015, 01:48 PM

*****!

Help. When I had stored the engine for the last few months water got into the oil, like a fair amount. It was creamy. I ran for a bit, drained, re-filled with dirty oil I had from other oil changes (dirty, but "clean," you know?), ran it for a little, and am now letting it sit to drain it again. My plan is to do this with all available oil I have laying around (probably like 3 oil changes worth). What else should I do though? What additives would be good to use to flush the system? I'm worried about the oil that sits in the IP especially, and getting that cleared out. Desiccants? Suggestions? Thank you!!!

Stretch · #71 06-10-2015, 02:07 PM

Ummm I can only give bad news having seen the emulsions produced in automatic transmissions from water in oil - it sticks to the insides like nothing else - I think the best way to remove is disassembly and mechanical wiping...

WVOPWRD! · #72 06-10-2015, 05:53 PM

No, no bad news!
Doing an engine flush with mac's. Also, praying...

Stretch · #73 06-10-2015, 10:39 PM

Well I'm sending you some luck from this side of the water - hope it does the trick for you

mach4 · #74 06-10-2015, 11:22 PM

As far as the water is concerned, I think you're doing the right thing to get the bulk of it out. Once the car is on the road, I'd think about waiting for a nice 100-105 day out in the Central Valley and make a high speed run from Sacramento to Fresno and back with the oil cooler obstructed with duct tape, cardboard or plastic to get the oil temps up towards the upper range in order to boil off the residual water. I'd also vent the valve cover to atmosphere temporarily to facilitate venting the vapors. I've got an oil temp gauge on mine, but to be safe I'd get an IR thermometer and periodically shoot the oil pan to make sure things don't get over 250F. If it gets close remove the material blocking the cooler. When you get back, drain the oil hot and maybe drain the oil cooler before you fill with nice fresh stuff and change the filter.

charmalu · #75 06-18-2015, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

Glad your making progress and got it in.

charmalu used a company in San Jose to shorten his driveshaft. I think it is these folks.

Southbay Driveline

I would run ATF for your tranny. Unless there is some noises, then try something else.

That is the shop I used, they do good work and would use them again. Steve is the owner.

I had him shorten the DL for the 4-spd swap project in the 85 300D.

Couple years later I had the U-joint replaced in the 240D. He replaced the centering Bushings and the center Support and Bearing.

He used a joint that needs to be greased, he said to give it a shot of grease once a yr and that would be good.
I suppose there is a sealed joint that would work also, since the originals in my case were well over 300k miles.

What ever shop you decide to use, and they replace the center rubber support, I would get it from the dealer.
Mine in the 240 lasted 33K miles and ripped out.

I replaced it with one from Pelican Parts, a Febi brand. Box had a sticker "made in

China". so we will keep an eye on it.

The ripped out one had no country of MFG. but I can guess.

This is the dealer wholesale price. MB Dealer in Monterey, Ca.

http://www.partswebsite.com/benzpartswholesale/oemparts/mercedes-benz-137/1234101081.html

Benz Parts Wholesale
498 Fremont st
Monterey, CA
93940 Phone: (888) 375-2456 Email:
marty@stahlmotorco.com

Charlie