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  #16  
Old 08-15-2014, 12:35 PM
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I fill my secondary filter, not completely full, but close, with Power Service. I do occasionally spill some.

Don't know if it needs priming, but I give it a few pumps, starts without any hesitation.

I have always oiled the rubber gasket, this is from years of replacing the oil filter on gassers. Been doing it for decades. Seems it doesn't matter, force of habit.

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  #17  
Old 08-22-2014, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neversayDIEsel View Post
I read about oiling the seal from the directions on the filter, lol.

My question about filling the filter I think was misunderstood. Maybe because I'm totally over thinking it. On the top of the filter there is a hole in the center and then smaller holes on the outside. I would imagine that fuel goes in the center hole, filters and comes out the small holes. So, by nature of this, wouldn't i fill it with fresh diesel from the center hole? Or does it not matter and I just put it all over the top of the filter.
On most Flters the Fuel or what is being Filtered goes through the small outer Holes and through the Filter Element and then out of the Centeral Hole.
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  #18  
Old 08-23-2014, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
On most Flters the Fuel or what is being Filtered goes through the small outer Holes and through the Filter Element and then out of the Centeral Hole.
Agreed, if you don't have a filter on and pump the primer, fuel comes out of the hole on the bottom indicated by the arrows.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2014, 03:41 PM
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Il recently spent hours under the 83 GMC truck I had just bought trying to get a screw on oil filter that the previous owner (or his idiot mechanic) neglected to oil the rubber seal before putting it on. After using 3 different type oil filter wrenches, then the "screwdriver in the side of the filter" trick, only to have to completely tear away the body of the filter canister, and THEN tried to drive the base off with a punch in the holes of the base. None of it worked, so I ended up finding a tool online specifically made for removing the stuck base with a ratchet attached to it, which did the trick. I've always been told to lube the rubber of any filter before installing it, and always have (and now, always will). I would have never believed that a filter would stick so tightly that I would have to go through all that, but it is a reality. When it finally came off, you could see that it was indeed put on dry. Whether the guy cranked it down like a lug nut, I don't know, but after that one incident, and having to wait for days for that tool to come in the mail, I will ALWAYS oil the filter seal and I will NEVER tighten it more than hand tight. Lube that seal!
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2014, 07:17 AM
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I've been reading a service manual for the Bosch MW pump published by International Harvester (they apparently used the MW in one of their creations). I thought of this thread when I read this section:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bosch MW Service Manual
Supply Pump With Hand Priming Pump

The piston-type supply pump (6, Figure 1) is activated by
the eccentric on the injection pump camshaft and serves
as a mount for the hand priming pump (10, Figure 1).
Since all fuel entering the injection pump must be filtered
to ensure long pump life, the hand priming pump should
be used when changing fuel filters. Always install the
fuel filters "dry" and use the hand pump to fill the filters
and bleed air from the fuel system.
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  #21  
Old 08-26-2014, 08:23 AM
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With a new filter....and filled with clean out of a can Diesel Purge.... I can not see that the ' not filter' fluid rule is being broken.

In that IH installation there may be other factors which make that the only practical way to fill the filter with clean fuel.
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  #22  
Old 08-26-2014, 11:24 AM
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... before you dump fuel from the old filter into the new one... consider the secondary function of the filter... water separation... don't pour water into your new filter!

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