Frustrated at having half done projects and their bits everywhere
 

Decided that enough was enough and I am going to take a break and do something fun for the Mercedes. Long time ago bought a set of Kicker speakers for the rear. It seems they will just barely fit.

So, got a few questions.

Does the quality of the crimp affect sound quality? The P.O. had a shop install speakers on the sides of the cargo compartment (take up a lot of space I need as every road trip crammed to the roof with stuff) and so one of the stock connectors is cut off. So, thinking best to cut the other and crimp the new connections that came with the speakers.

Can the magnet be touching the body? Think I got a couple millimeters, but just figure I should ask if I need to put some padding in.

Does the plastic ring on the tweeter do anything? I am thinking if it can be filed down just insure it isn't hitting the cover. I don't care about looks since these will not be visible.

Thank you all in advance for the help! :D

The best way to install wiring for speakers is to solder everything.

Thank you so very much! :D

So what you mean solder? Rather than crimp?

That's a bummer, as my soldering iron never seemed to ever be clean, so the solders weren't good. Plus, not sure where it even is...

When I was installing stereos in my cars, I would usually use some type of head unit wiring adapter from Scosche or a similar company. I always soldered and heat-shrink wrapped the connections. It was more work than crimping/taping, but I never had a connection problem.

a crimp will not affect sound quality unless it is very poor. you do not have to solder everything but it is great if you can.

Thank you so very much PC! :D

I have all the connectors, except the fine crimp sleeves. These might present a challenge.

Bricktron, thank you so very much! :D

Fine, I will put this on hold until I replace my ratcheting crimper that was stolen. I never liked the pliers crimping as not even.

Does having temperature adjustment help with soldering? The iron I have I bought when I was about ten years old and has no temperature control. I bought and used it for wood burning artwork.

Crimping is fine, it will work well for a long time, but soldering will outlast the speakers. Corrosion will never impair a soldered connection, and a properly soldered and heat shrink sealed connection is much less likely to short.

Thank you so very much, John! :D

I think I know the answers, but feel I and others could learn.

What is the point of soldering?

What is the point of shrink tubing?

Then I wonder how a short could happen considering low voltage and high location in the interior.

Soldering bonds the connections and seals out oxygen and moisture.

Heat shrink insulates the soldered joint electrically.

Short is when the path of voltage is bypassed. Any voltage can short... Speakers, while low voltage, can still short, which will stop, or impair the sound quality, or even blow the radio/amplifier

Wow! So helpful, thank you so very much! :D

So soldering is an extra step to insuring longevity? Is it really needed in a fairly dry climate compared to a humid climate? I mean, none of the manufactures as far as I know didn't do soldering.

Every electrical connection I have made I have used shrink tubing.

It has been not so good day, so... Yes, any voltage can short, but didn't know it could damage the radio! Don't want that.

I have always used the crimps with the heat shrink covering for any stereo work in my cars with no issues. Soldering is a better option but I am always scared of using one of those in a confined space like a dash. I always run all new speaker wire when I am installing a new radio since these MB stock stereo systems are rather odd with faders and amps.

Thank you all for the help! :D Finally got done with an idea I had back in 2013; can't remember when. I know I ordered the speakers December '13, so has been at least that long! :o

Tram had a shop install 6"x9" speakers in boxes mounted to the spare tire cover and the hatch for the emergency supplies. Every time I had a big load they were always in the way and the wires kept coming loose. To me it wasn't neat and/or appealing, but understand the reason. It was a pain to find a speaker that fit the stock location!

I removed them just before this thread was created when I was cleaning my office. So nice not having them in the way. There was no way I could have fit a full sized flat file in there; it was 3'-6" wide!

What I first did was the wiring. Man it is so worth the $107 I spent years ago for a ratcheting crimper! Makes it so easy and nice! Second was taking down the speaker mounts, mocking up the speakers, marking were the two new holes had to be drilled, removing the speaker, drilling the holes, mounting the speaker in the mount, then mounting the assembly to the roof. It would be self mutilation to try and mount the speakers in the mounts using the crummy supplied hardware!

The plastic ring on the tweeter does hit the cover it seems, but don't see any issues with the way the cover is sitting. The magnets are also VERY close to the roof. But, no bad harmonics or vibrations. Just good excitations!

All good answers in this thread..... Great..

but I see many talk like ' crimp OR solder' .... I crimp AND solder...

That wood burning soldering iron will work just fine if you follow the rules...
put a wide flat blade on it...
let it get really hot before touching to the wires..
PUT THE IRON TO THE WIRES or crimp . DO NOT LET THE SOLDER TOUCH THE IRON.....

let the wires you have heated with the iron get hot enough to melt the solder into the joint.....otherwise you can get a ' cold ' joint..

I have to really work to remember to put my shrink tube ON ONE Wire before soldering..... no telling how many I had to take back apart to put it on.... shrink tubing is a magical invention.....

place something under your soldering area so any drips do not hit anything combustible.....

Be sure not to use acid flux... that is ONLY FOR things like RADIATORS.... not wiring..