Valve Adjustment Clarification
 

I've decided to tackle on the valve adjustment on my 1984 300D, I read the tutorial from diesel giant. the way I am interpreting it, if the #1 cylinder Exhaust is at 90 degree or so, every valve in the same position can be adjusted. Am I correct with this understanding? I've adjusted valve clearance of solid lifter ICE before, when the #1 cylinder is at TDC. Other cylinder in the same orientation and can be adjusted.

is this something similar?


Please advise. Thank you in advance.

I always do them one at a time. Turn the engine until the cam lobe is pointed straight at the oil tube (would be about the 1oclock) position. Adjust that valve. Turn the engine again then adjust the next valve that comes into position. Repeat until all ten valves have been adjusted.

You have to move the cam for every valve.

Rotating the crank is the easiest part of the job. What i did was first the intake valves then the exhaust just to stay away from any confusion.

Thank you everyone for the inputs, the car sat overnight. Hence I will attemp this after work today.

I have to use the valve adjustment cheat sheet that DieselGiant has in the tutorial: http://dieselgiant.com/5Cylinder%20valve%20sheet.pdf

It helps me keep track of what I've done and what I haven't. I put a circle around the ones I've done and then when I go back around to double check them I put an X through the circle.

Good luck with yours!

I cheat. I adjust every valve that is not pointing at the follower, then rotate 90, and do the rest.
Unless the cam is damaged, anywhere other than during lift is on the base circle of the lobe, and ok to measure clearance.

Reading this thread because I too should be due for adjustment before long.

What I recall doing, is something like vstech suggests, but I would mark valves done both on sheet and on engine itself (dab of paint or ??) to avoid confusion. Using a 1 at a time methodical approach as some have described might reduce errors.

I have never had luck turning crank directly. I have the socket, but it seems to me extensions came off and it was hard to reach. If it is easy, I must be missing something. I have always used a crescent wrench on PS pulley plus a little hand tension on belt. I have one of those electric starter hand switches somewhere too, but never tried it.

I use the remote starter switch, or just jump the bolts with a screwdriver/pliers...

Yeah, do all the valves you can, as vstech mentions.

I also use a remote momentary switch.

Print out or draw the image in the attachment and mark off the ones you did.

Well that sure makes things a lot easier... makes sense too.

I'll try it that way next time.

Last time I did it was with the injectors out when I was doing a compression check, and that was a whole lot easier to rotate the engine without compression.

I have always done it following the firing order. I start with #1, and then to #2, to 4 then 5 and last 3. I do both exhaust and intake with both lobes pointing up (approx. 10 degrees). I thought this was the approved method, but now that I understand that this way may be easier/faster, I will try it as well. I DO know that doing each of the 10 valves one at a time is not the best way.....Rich

The FSM specifically FORBIDS using the PS pulley nut...
Because that is a tapered fit and you will have it way too tight should you ever need to take it off...

I have seen a warning in Maintenance manual not to use the camshaft sprocket nut, but they don't mention the PS nut in MM.

DieselGiant says to use the PS nut and that is what I have always done. It is hard to see how the nut could get overtightened because it is already tight and the wrench just turns the engine over quite easily. (BTW, you need to pull up on the underside of lowere belt - then belt doesn't slip.)
From DG site:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/valveadjust19.JPG

Ohh, thanks for the tip. I should try that when I do the 'SD.