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  #16  
Old 08-26-2014, 01:45 PM
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Location: San Diego
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Nothing to lose. GO FOR IT. If you ask then the answer here is NO from most members. Use your own judgment and feelings. Also work out how much you can afford to lose in the worst case scenario.

I have used it to seal the tranny and that was 30k ago and the car still shifting perfectly. I have used all kinds of sealant including Blue Devil gasket sealant with good results.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.
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  #17  
Old 08-26-2014, 02:02 PM
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Location: central Texas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
I dont understand how will you get varnish out of the valve body circuits, the channels are hydraulic lines - which means they are closed, so lets say this stuff dislodges it - how do you exhaust this sludge?.
We are talking 'varnish' buildup... no different from painting your furniture with multiple layers of varnish... it is a dark yellow brownish color ... or darker...

those BB channels I am referring to.... the fluid goes through them ONE direction to work something hydraulic... but then the balls need to use gravity to fall to the bottom of that little tube TO STOP BACK FLOW of the hydraulic fluid... if any coating builds up on the walls.. it stops or slows the sealing of the BB's to the bottom of the tube.

this is not sludge like you would find in a septic tank... this is varnish which is re dissolved and in suspension.... so changing out the trans fluid and the Trans=x and putting in a new filter is how it exits the trans....

It may be more accurate to call this stuff Lacquer type buildup.. because lacquer can be scraped off a surface and put back into the type of medium it was sprayed with...and it becomes the original substance..
it does not form long chain molecules... typically a one way process...
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  #18  
Old 08-26-2014, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
That goes to show that one can own an auto shop and not know how something actually works.

The shifting ..... apply one clutch sending the power to one set of gears....and then another...

is taken care of by hydraulic pressure.

Gee, thanks for clearing that up. So what you are saying, in a MB transmission there are pair of gears for each forward speed and a pair for reverse? ( 4 speed auto 4 pair + a pair for reverse? )


Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post

Inside the valve body ... which few people have actually seen.... are some small BB sized balls which are pretty much foolproof.... since they are in a vertical tube and can not fall out of the bottom of it... Gravity causes them to want to fall DOWN... pretty foolproof unless that tube gets varnish deposited over the years to where they are slowed down.. or do not fall far enough to completely seal ... these are shutdown valves.... if they allow some pressure to remain on a clutch which is supposed to be shut down... then excessive wear happens pretty quickly...and you may have two clutches engaged at the same time...

What happens to the balls on a bumpy road? Having 2 gears apply at the same time sounds like a dangerous design flaw.
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  #19  
Old 08-26-2014, 04:00 PM
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Join Date: May 2014
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ehhh im still on the fence about it all.

my tranny is great after the ATF fluid / filter change, except for the semi-frequent reluctant initial shift into 3rd (which is more of an inconvenience than anything). is the reluctant shift into 3rd a sign of things to come? probably, but as it is right now I don't want to prematurely kill my entire tranny just to remedy an inconvenience.

leathermang, how do you recommend to specifically use TransX? one of the more interesting methods I read was to get the car to operating temp, turn it off, dump in TransX, do not turn the car on, go through the gears, and let it sit over night. Then just drive around the next morning and youre good (but what about adjusting for fluid levels, do you leave the TransX in or do you replace all the fluid with clean ATF and a new filter, etc.).
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  #20  
Old 08-26-2014, 04:13 PM
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Location: central Texas
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I bought a suction tube and ' puller'.... sorta looked like a grease gun cartridge...but sucks.... I took out the amount needed to allow room for the Trans-x...
No matter what you do in life... you do not want to over fill a transmission OR an engine.... as the foaming.... which is aeration of oxygen.... DRASTICALLY REDUCES the EFFECTIVE life of the lubricant.
Then I checked the manual and found how much fluid the wagon had... and a 20 percent initial clean out involved two cans.... about $16 total...
Then I ran it about forty miles... came back and drained it hot...
Then I put in new fluid.... and one can of Trans X...
and left it in there.....
The car last a couple of years.... the suspension wore out...and it did not have AC...
So I sold it to TxBill.... and he drove it to Houston.... the wheels were really splayed out... but he did it anyway...
On many cars you might need to turn the engine on.... and put the shift lever into each gear for a few minutes.... up the scale and down the scale....if it is not going into a one or more gears at all...
Otherwise... leave it in until you are sure it has had a chance to clean out the insides....
and change out your fluid, filter if you can,,, and add the smaller amount of Transx to leave in it....
Be sure not to overfill....
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  #21  
Old 08-27-2014, 11:45 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 4,154
It looks like the OP has only twisted on the Bowden cable, changed part of the fluid and installed a filter. Perhaps he is asking the wrong question???

How about repairing or at least testing the vacuum system, adjusting the governor pressure, the VCV and again the Bowden? THEN consider Trans-x?

He has an 83D so was that a 722.3? There is lots of info and a few manuals floating around.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #22  
Old 08-27-2014, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97 SL320 View Post
Gee, thanks for clearing that up. So what you are saying, in a MB transmission there are pair of gears for each forward speed and a pair for reverse? ( 4 speed auto 4 pair + a pair for reverse? )

What happens to the balls on a bumpy road? Having 2 gears apply at the same time sounds like a dangerous design flaw.
Where in my post did you get the word " pair " from ?
I said set of gears for each speed... and a clutch to send the power to them.
Bumpy road... these are IN auto trans fluid.... and either being forced open.. or being held closed by hydraulic pressure....
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  #23  
Old 08-27-2014, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Where in my post did you get the word " pair " from ?
I said set of gears for each speed... and a clutch to send the power to them.

From your post # 11 ( the ...... are in your original post, I've done a copy paste )

"" The shifting ..... apply one clutch sending the power to one set of gears....and then another...

is taken care of by hydraulic pressure. ""
~~~~~~~~~~~~~

"One set" of gears implies more than one toothed gear per speed. One clutch sending power to one set says that there is one clutch per speed. ( 4 for a 4 speed, 5 for a 5 speed and so on, also include one for reverse.



Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Bumpy road... these are IN auto trans fluid.... and either being forced open.. or being held closed by hydraulic pressure....

Again from your post # 11 ( the ...... are in your original post, I've done a copy paste. I've added #### to highlight your words. )

"" Inside the valve body ... which few people have actually seen.... are some small BB sized balls which are pretty much foolproof.... since they are in a vertical tube and can not fall out of the bottom of it...

##### Gravity causes them to want to fall DOWN... pretty foolproof unless that tube gets varnish deposited over the years to where they are slowed down.. or do not fall far enough to completely seal ... #####

these are shutdown valves.... if they allow some pressure to remain on a clutch which is supposed to be shut down... then excessive wear happens pretty quickly..

#####.and you may have two clutches engaged at the same time... #### ""
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  #24  
Old 08-27-2014, 06:43 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
97 SL320,
I have no idea what your problem is... this is all I am going to offer to cure it.

"The pressure for the clutches is fed through passageways in the shafts. The hydraulic system controls which clutches and bands are energized at any given moment. "

From :

HowStuffWorks "Clutches and Bands in an Automatic Transmission"

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