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#16
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honestly, i wouldn't bother. use the ohmmeter to test the resistance of the plugs to ground - look up the proper value first - and use voltmeter function to make sure the relay is showing them potential. those two tests are a reasonably proxy for the ammeter clamp, as long as you believe the GP wires are good.
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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc. |
#17
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Will look tomorrow when it's light.
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178 207K 1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car) 2000 Ford Ranger, 187K 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K Last edited by mbzr4ever; 08-30-2014 at 01:45 AM. |
#18
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I would get a bottle with clean fuel in it, and connect the lift pump and fuel return lines and see if it runs. Both fuel filters need to be good for the car to run. Air filter needs to be good...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#19
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Really?
Quote:
Could I also add some additive - hate to throw out a whole tank of diesel @ $5.50 per gallon.
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178 207K 1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car) 2000 Ford Ranger, 187K 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K |
#20
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Crack the hard injector lines at the injectors and see if you are getting fuel to each....there is a chance that you have a fuel leak, as the car sat...the ip filled with air...that would be my next step. I assume you have a new primer pump?
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#21
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No, did not get a new primer pump. My tank gauge indicates a full tank, that's why I'm suspecting bad fuel vs a leak. Another possibility, bad fuel clogging up the big filter, or the screen in the tank? BWDIK?
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178 207K 1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car) 2000 Ford Ranger, 187K 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K |
#22
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Not completely disconnecting the hard lines, just loosen them a bit at the injectors and then crank to see if fuel comes out.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
#23
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Loosening the fuel lines at the injector also is the way to get any air out of the system at that location... air itself compresses and does not open the valve in the injector... thus it can not evacuate air ... so you have to be sure your entire fuel route is liquid....
If I run out of fuel on my Ford Tractor... I have to do this out in the field ..hitting the start button while standing on the ground with wrenches in hand to tighten the lines down while it is turning over... I really try to avoid that now...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#24
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Quote:
Prime pumped but no fuel coming out of that connection! Primer pump leaks when pushing down. Something stuck in between? Checked air filter, still looks new. EDIT: I'm researching primer pumps, injection pumps....
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178 207K 1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car) 2000 Ford Ranger, 187K 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K Last edited by mbzr4ever; 08-30-2014 at 03:51 PM. |
#25
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If the primer is leaking, then it needs to be replaced...it can very well be sucking air in.
When you crack the hard lines at the injectors, you need to get in the car and turn the engine over, while looking for fuel coming out.. When you use the primer pump, you will hear a squirt noise when the air is primed out, but with a leaky primer pump....you'll never get all the air out with that... Best bet, is to stretch a condom over the primer pump, crack the hardlines and crack the engine until you see fuel coming out.
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#26
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OR have one of those starter buttons which clips to the starter... remote starter button... so you are right there at the lines... do put it in park or neutral...... or it will run over your toes...and possibly more....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#27
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Took advantage of this hot sunny morning to degrease the engine at bit so I can at least see - something?
Looking for obvious cracks in lines, or loose connections, etc. Grabbing a condom, heading back out.... {Hold up - SC game.} Bled all 4 till fuel came out of top. sounded better when trying to start, but not turning over and can feel the battery getting drained. Probably need to order some parts before I continue further. EDIT: tested each gp - ground/plug, each got the same reading approx. 10.15.
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178 207K 1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car) 2000 Ford Ranger, 187K 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K Last edited by mbzr4ever; 08-30-2014 at 10:58 PM. Reason: added gp readings |
#28
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Good, least we know your injectors are getting fuel.
So next I would move to glow plugs or the vacuum shut off on the IP, remove the brown line to it and try to start the car. Did you use bosch or monarks when you did your glow plug conversion? I can't remember off hand. Yours was also a stick correct?
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#29
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IMO
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For this vehicle a 100 AMP charger is needed, one hour charge. Recovery time for a 50 AMP unit is 2 -3 hours, but serious starter / glow plug use will still drain the battery even with this charger connected. Recovery time for a 25 AMP, unit is 6 - 12 hours, depending on how low the battery is. Recovery time for a 15 AMP, unit is 12 - 24 hours, depending on how low the battery is. Recovery time for a 1.5 AMP, unit is 30 - 72 hours, depending on how low the battery is. I will NOTE: If the primer pump is leaking / sucking air = you are wasting your time and effort. Here is more data on the subject: Here's my payback! Diesel Primer Pump Replacement And related data you need to know: Diesel Injection: fuel pressure http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/142399-fuel-delivery.html .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
#30
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Quote:
Yes, she is a manual. Edit: replaced the primer pump; had to wait for a 24mm wrench that I did not have.
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178 207K 1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car) 2000 Ford Ranger, 187K 2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K Last edited by mbzr4ever; 09-21-2014 at 11:40 PM. |
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