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  #16  
Old 08-30-2014, 12:44 AM
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honestly, i wouldn't bother. use the ohmmeter to test the resistance of the plugs to ground - look up the proper value first - and use voltmeter function to make sure the relay is showing them potential. those two tests are a reasonably proxy for the ammeter clamp, as long as you believe the GP wires are good.

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  #17  
Old 08-30-2014, 01:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bricktron View Post
honestly, i wouldn't bother. use the ohmmeter to test the resistance of the plugs to ground - look up the proper value first - and use voltmeter function to make sure the relay is showing them potential. those two tests are a reasonably proxy for the ammeter clamp, as long as you believe the GP wires are good.
Ok, I was thinking the same thing.
Will look tomorrow when it's light.
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Last edited by mbzr4ever; 08-30-2014 at 01:45 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-30-2014, 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by mbzr4ever View Post
It's charging at the shop now for about an hour or two.
They said it was reading 12.2, and should be 12.7, and was about 5 years old.

Would a .5 charge make such a difference?
12.2 is a battery at 20% charge 12.76 is 100% charge...

I would get a bottle with clean fuel in it, and connect the lift pump and fuel return lines and see if it runs.
Both fuel filters need to be good for the car to run. Air filter needs to be good...
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  #19  
Old 08-30-2014, 02:47 AM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
12.2 is a battery at 20% charge 12.76 is 100% charge...
Really?

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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I would get a bottle with clean fuel in it, and connect the lift pump and fuel return lines and see if it runs.
Both fuel filters need to be good for the car to run. Air filter needs to be good...
Great idea. Last fill up was about 3 weeks ago. Could have filled up on already "aglea-ed" diesel that was sitting - does that make sense?
Could I also add some additive - hate to throw out a whole tank of diesel @ $5.50 per gallon.
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  #20  
Old 08-30-2014, 03:34 AM
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Crack the hard injector lines at the injectors and see if you are getting fuel to each....there is a chance that you have a fuel leak, as the car sat...the ip filled with air...that would be my next step. I assume you have a new primer pump?
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  #21  
Old 08-30-2014, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Crack the hard injector lines at the injectors and see if you are getting fuel to each....there is a chance that you have a fuel leak, as the car sat...the ip filled with air...that would be my next step. I assume you have a new primer pump?
Crack the hard injector lines - do you mean disconnect and see if fuel comes out?
No, did not get a new primer pump.
My tank gauge indicates a full tank, that's why I'm suspecting bad fuel vs a leak.
Another possibility, bad fuel clogging up the big filter, or the screen in the tank?
BWDIK?
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  #22  
Old 08-30-2014, 06:28 AM
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Not completely disconnecting the hard lines, just loosen them a bit at the injectors and then crank to see if fuel comes out.
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  #23  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:29 AM
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Loosening the fuel lines at the injector also is the way to get any air out of the system at that location... air itself compresses and does not open the valve in the injector... thus it can not evacuate air ... so you have to be sure your entire fuel route is liquid....
If I run out of fuel on my Ford Tractor... I have to do this out in the field ..hitting the start button while standing on the ground with wrenches in hand to tighten the lines down while it is turning over... I really try to avoid that now...
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  #24  
Old 08-30-2014, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
Not completely disconnecting the hard lines, just loosen them a bit at the injectors and then crank to see if fuel comes out.
Loosened the one connector with the hard line closest to the radiator.
Prime pumped but no fuel coming out of that connection!

Primer pump leaks when pushing down.
Something stuck in between?

Checked air filter, still looks new.

EDIT: I'm researching primer pumps, injection pumps....
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1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 08-30-2014 at 03:51 PM.
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  #25  
Old 08-30-2014, 06:40 PM
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If the primer is leaking, then it needs to be replaced...it can very well be sucking air in.

When you crack the hard lines at the injectors, you need to get in the car and turn the engine over, while looking for fuel coming out..

When you use the primer pump, you will hear a squirt noise when the air is primed out, but with a leaky primer pump....you'll never get all the air out with that...

Best bet, is to stretch a condom over the primer pump, crack the hardlines and crack the engine until you see fuel coming out.
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  #26  
Old 08-30-2014, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
If the primer is leaking, then it needs to be replaced...it can very well be sucking air in.

When you crack the hard lines at the injectors, you need to get in the car and turn the engine over, while looking for fuel coming out...
OR have one of those starter buttons which clips to the starter... remote starter button... so you are right there at the lines... do put it in park or neutral...... or it will run over your toes...and possibly more....
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  #27  
Old 08-30-2014, 07:19 PM
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Took advantage of this hot sunny morning to degrease the engine at bit so I can at least see - something?
Looking for obvious cracks in lines, or loose connections, etc.

Grabbing a condom, heading back out....

{Hold up - SC game.}

Bled all 4 till fuel came out of top.

sounded better when trying to start, but not turning over and can feel the battery getting drained.

Probably need to order some parts before I continue further.

EDIT: tested each gp - ground/plug, each got the same reading approx. 10.15.
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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
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1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 08-30-2014 at 10:58 PM. Reason: added gp readings
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  #28  
Old 08-30-2014, 10:55 PM
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Good, least we know your injectors are getting fuel.

So next I would move to glow plugs or the vacuum shut off on the IP, remove the brown line to it and try to start the car.

Did you use bosch or monarks when you did your glow plug conversion? I can't remember off hand.

Yours was also a stick correct?
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  #29  
Old 08-31-2014, 12:58 AM
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IMO

Quote:
Originally Posted by mbzr4ever View Post
This is for my w123, 1979 240D:

Had disconnected the red battery line for a few weeks, since I was anticipating doing some body work on it.

Hooked up the red line, started up, but then she idled rough, went a few yards, then she died.

Tried starting again, wants to turn over, but I think the battery is weak.

I understand these diesel batteries are different from regular car batteries.

Can I use this device to charge the battery? Battery Tender Plus

http://batterytender.com/includes/languages/english/resources/Product_Info_BT_Plus.pdf

Or should I try to jump it with my other cars?

My other alternative is to disconnect it and take it to the battery shop and have them charge it.
Assuming a near dead battery.

For this vehicle a 100 AMP charger is needed, one hour charge.

Recovery time for a 50 AMP unit is 2 -3 hours, but serious starter / glow plug use will still drain the battery even with this charger connected.

Recovery time for a 25 AMP, unit is 6 - 12 hours, depending on how low the battery is.

Recovery time for a 15 AMP, unit is 12 - 24 hours, depending on how low the battery is.

Recovery time for a 1.5 AMP, unit is 30 - 72 hours, depending on how low the battery is.


I will NOTE: If the primer pump is leaking / sucking air = you are wasting your time and effort.

Here is more data on the subject:
Here's my payback! Diesel Primer Pump Replacement

And related data you need to know:

Diesel Injection:

fuel pressure

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/142399-fuel-delivery.html

.
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  #30  
Old 09-01-2014, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Good, least we know your injectors are getting fuel.

So next I would move to glow plugs or the vacuum shut off on the IP, remove the brown line to it and try to start the car.

Did you use bosch or monarks when you did your glow plug conversion? I can't remember off hand.

Yours was also a stick correct?
New gp are bosch, IIRC.
Yes, she is a manual.

Edit: replaced the primer pump; had to wait for a 24mm wrench that I did not have.

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1991 300E 124.030 103.983KE 722358 03 412178
207K

1979 240D 123.123 250K (Project car)

2000 Ford Ranger, 187K

2015 Dodge Ram 1500 EcoDiesel 37K

Last edited by mbzr4ever; 09-21-2014 at 11:40 PM.
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