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  #31  
Old 09-03-2014, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
UH.... I would like to expand on the description of ' don't get away with that '...

Most people understand that Brakes are critical... engine is so so.. nice to have... but when you are going... brakes are ESSENTIAL in most people's minds... and those in which that attitude is not present have already succumbed to ' The Darwin Rule '.... or are tossing the dice on a very risky situation... where the cost is perhaps a quarter bottle of brake fluid... to make sure you have no moisture... which can boil ... and lock up the brakes... or take up room which will allow the brake pedal to NOT actuate the brakes.... compared to an accident where your limb/s or life is at stake.... and other's too....
I thought that I had done that already by stating that in some situations you do get Air in the Brake Lines at the Master Cylinder and sometime that Air is enough to cause you to have to Bleed the whole system.

In conclusion if you bleed only the Master Cylinder and then connect the Brake Lines at the Master Cylinder and go for a Test Drive and find it worked you are done and you have save the time an labor needed to bleed the whole system.
If you Test Drive and find you have Air in the Lines you need to bleed them you are only wasted the time needed to do the test drive.

Keep in mind no one has to follow My suggestion; it is up to them. But, at the same time none of what I said is Me guessing as I am speaking of what I have done in the past and the results.
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  #32  
Old 09-03-2014, 02:22 PM
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You make it sound like ' Flushing ' the system is some great cost or labor...

If the brake fluid in a car is discolored AT ALL...
and you suck the bad fluid out of the master cylinder and put new in...
then all you do to make sure you have no air is to bleed the longest brake line first...and work towards the master cylinder in terms of brake line length... the lines do not hold much fluid... so you simply bleed until you get SOLID CLEAR new fluid coming out.. and you are sure you have no air...and you have new fluid in the system.
Lets don't discourage people from renewing their brake fluid when they have the excuse of needing to bleed the brakes anyway....
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  #33  
Old 09-03-2014, 05:10 PM
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Its even easier to flush the fluid in a manual shift car, just remove the clutch line and all the old brake fluid just drains right out...
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  #34  
Old 09-03-2014, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
You make it sound like ' Flushing ' the system is some great cost or labor...

If the brake fluid in a car is discolored AT ALL...
and you suck the bad fluid out of the master cylinder and put new in...
then all you do to make sure you have no air is to bleed the longest brake line first...and work towards the master cylinder in terms of brake line length... the lines do not hold much fluid... so you simply bleed until you get SOLID CLEAR new fluid coming out.. and you are sure you have no air...and you have new fluid in the system.
Lets don't discourage people from renewing their brake fluid when they have the excuse of needing to bleed the brakes anyway....
People can and will make up their own minds.
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  #35  
Old 09-04-2014, 08:10 AM
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For people who have not had to replace a master cylinder... and bench bleed it...
Here is one thing I KNOW...
You have to put plugs into the side of the master cylinder...you use the holes the lines on the car will connect to the front and back brake lines...
You push the piston back an forth and the new fluid in the master cylinder goes through the outlet plugs and that fluid is rerounted over the top of the master cylinder into the main cavity. You do this several times until you do not see any bubbles being sent back up through those temporary lines .
Then comes the part were you can NOT keep from having some air introduced into the brake lines..... in installing the master cylinder and hooking up the car's brake lines to the side of it.... you have to take out the bleeding plugs and attach the brake lines... unless you encased the whole situation under brake fluid you have a small air pocket between the exit of the master cylinder and the insertion of the brake line.
And everyone should check the brake fluid replacement time suggested in their FSM.... which will likely cause them to see any brake system work as the logical time to simply pour new fluid into the master cylinder and bleed all the brake cylinders....
Replacing metal brake lines under the car is something no one wants to have to do... and having moisture in there can cause them to rust from the inside out.
Yes, people will make up their own minds... .but it they need all the facts available on important things like automobile Brakes...
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