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  #16  
Old 09-02-2014, 10:04 PM
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[QUOTE=shertex;3381414I wound't mind shelling out for rust repair every five years or so. When it eventually gives up the ghost due to rust, I will buy an 05/06 CDI.[/QUOTE]
I think 5 years is a stretch for rust repair out here. Keep right on top of it and it shouldn't get too out of hand.
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  #17  
Old 09-02-2014, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by ytmtnman View Post
I think 5 years is a stretch for rust repair out here. Keep right on top of it and it shouldn't get too out of hand.
You're probably right...five years was an arbitrary interval. I'm sure deterioration accelerates as the years go by.
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  #18  
Old 09-02-2014, 11:20 PM
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You can always swap the om606 turbo into the 124 once the 210 rust makes it unusable.
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  #19  
Old 09-03-2014, 06:50 AM
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I'm glad I live in a place where corrosion is a pretty minor issue. In the OP's situation a cheap and cheerful winter beater, replaced when needed would be my first choice. If for some reason that weren't possible, I think I'd sacrifice the 210 to the rust gods.

I used to know an old couple who lived in Bridgeport, CA (tons of snow so presumably tons of salt to go with it) who used to come down to Carson for the husbands medical treatments. They always drove a '64 Chevy that somehow stayed rust free. I wonder how they managed that.
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  #20  
Old 09-03-2014, 06:53 AM
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I was talking with a local fellow who is on this forum (The Grinch), and he was saying that he had heard of spraying the bottom of the car with linseed oil or some other such thing to protect it from all the winter crud. It's supposed to be much more environmentally friendly than motor oil, (who'da thunk it!), but not too expensive (I think he said something about $20).

As for a beater, I like the idea of a Volvo 240 . $900, 200,000 miles, a pair of studded snows...

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  #21  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
I was talking with a local fellow who is on this forum (The Grinch), and he was saying that he had heard of spraying the bottom of the car with linseed oil or some other such thing to protect it from all the winter crud. It's supposed to be much more environmentally friendly than motor oil, (who'da thunk it!), but not too expensive (I think he said something about $20).

As for a beater, I like the idea of a Volvo 240 . $900, 200,000 miles, a pair of studded snows...

1989 volvo 240
Done from new yearly, this definitely works. Various rust spray services are pretty effective. When i used to live in syracuse i would have my car sprayed annually with rustcheck, which is a linseed oil based product which ultimately washes away, so must be reapplied. Started doing it after an electrician showed me his early 90s caddy he did from new and drove every single winter in syracuse, which eats cars away fast. No rust on it
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2014, 08:32 AM
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You're asking the wrong question. The correct question is "Where do I move to keep my cars intact? I like coastal SE North Carolina but there are other areas that are nice too.

In the word of a friend, "Samsonite".

Dan
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
In the OP's situation a cheap and cheerful winter beater, replaced when needed would be my first choice. If for some reason that weren't possible, I think I'd sacrifice the 210 to the rust gods.
If a 210 isn't a beater, what is?
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Skippy View Post
I used to know an old couple who lived in Bridgeport, CA (tons of snow so presumably tons of salt to go with it) who used to come down to Carson for the husbands medical treatments. They always drove a '64 Chevy that somehow stayed rust free. I wonder how they managed that.
CA and most of the western states don't use salt because of run off water quality rules. Only sand.
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  #25  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ytmtnman View Post
I think 5 years is a stretch for rust repair out here. Keep right on top of it and it shouldn't get too out of hand.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
You're probably right...five years was an arbitrary interval. I'm sure deterioration accelerates as the years go by.
Idk I think the repairs I did to our one 300SD will last 5 years..I did it in 2010....won't prevent new ones from occurring though. I see some slight surface rust on some of the lesser covered corners but by in large they are still in tact.

I need to fix the hole in the floor boards though. Evidently when you dont properly seal the front windshield..water leaks in and goes to the lowest point..which is near the driver seat's rear mount. There is now a piece of aluminum holding up the seat lol.
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  #26  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jake12tech View Post
Yeah if you plan on keeping that W210, don't drive that in the winter. Never drove mine in snow ONCE and it payed off.

I say buy some fwd POS for winter and drive it into the ground.
X2 some disposable POS.
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  #27  
Old 09-03-2014, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by tjts1 View Post
CA and most of the western states don't use salt because of run off water quality rules. Only sand.


Then you haven`t gone over Hwy 80 or 50 in the winter? Caltrans uses it every winter to melt Ice etc...

I worked for Caltrans for 37 years, we used in on Hwy 9, 6 miles on the Santa Cruz side and a Couple miles down the Santa Clara side going to Saratoga, and along Hwy 35 which is Summit Rd.

NDOT in Nevada uses a heavy Brine solution on their roads.


Charlie
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  #28  
Old 09-03-2014, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Then you haven`t gone over Hwy 80 or 50 in the winter? Caltrans uses it every winter to melt Ice etc...

I worked for Caltrans for 37 years, we used in on Hwy 9, 6 miles on the Santa Cruz side and a Couple miles down the Santa Clara side going to Saratoga, and along Hwy 35 which is Summit Rd.

NDOT in Nevada uses a heavy Brine solution on their roads.


Charlie
WRONG

They use calcium magnesium acetate and magnesium chloride when necessary.
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  #29  
Old 09-03-2014, 12:06 PM
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Man, he worked for CalTrans for 37 years. Don't be so quick to jump down his throat.

Especially since you are the one who is wrong. You didn't even read the relevant parts of that document, obviously.



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