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#16
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She is a looker, Enjoy.
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CM |
#17
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#18
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I think we have all see threads were People bought a low mileage good looking (perfect?) Car and are shocked at what went wrong with it after they started driving it. Not to mantion the Cost or what they had to do to fix it. We all hope that the Car will be as perfect as the ones that most of us DIYers have achieved through learned Knowledge, labor, sweat and ingenuity.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#19
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I think our members get tired of these brag about my new ride threads...
We have been around these cars for sooo many years, that we know...even if the car is rust free, garage kept, low low miles....its going to be a money pit... Its like once the newness wears off, and you start driving it....all the little things that will eventually take up every free moment of your life starts surfacing... We have also known, that no car is rust free....both my cars are from Cali, and both have rot/rust under the battery tray, rust under the trunk liner from bad seals.. So yes its a nice car, blue on blue...nothing special about it....but its a nice car for the entry into mercedes owner ship... And yep, like the rest of us....if you plan to daily drive it....make sure to buy another or have another car....so when it kicks the bucket you have something to drive until the parts come in from germany...bound to happen, its happened to us all..
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#20
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I'm not sure where the "my 35+ year old car with way over 100K miles from the Northern rust-belt doesn't have any rust" comes from, but I know better than to believe that one. It's pretty simple......these old MB cars age and rust. Do they all? Every one I've inspected has it. The rubber can be kept in near perfect condition if garaged since new, for up to about 20 years. How do I know this? I've done it on a bought new MB in Texas, that's how. If the car is kept in the outside elements for even a few years - it's going to show, and the rubber is going to deteriorate. Again, I know this because I've been there done that with too many old MBs to think the rubber lasts over 15 years unless it IS garaged. I remember the guy here a few months ago that burst on the scene with another; "100% rust-free" MB diesel from the early '80s, that posted pics of it's rusting wheels and lug nuts! Apparently, he thought that rusted wheels and lug nuts didn't count as rust! It's extremely rare that any of our decades old, DD MBs have 0% rust, that's just what experience has taught me owning one or more for decades..... |
#21
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Poor OP....all he wanted to do was share his excitement about this new MB. But now he has the FORUM REALISTS descending upon him, jaded by their years of experience, to suck the joy right out of him.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles 06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU 91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion 19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi Fourteen other MB's owned and sold 1961 Very Tolerant Wife |
#22
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Well I wish the OP the best.
I took a bigger chance than the OP Did. I bought the Car unseen and of course untested from eBay because I wanted a Diesel Car quick. Bought in CA but came from another State. The rust was not apparent at first except behind in the Rear Fender Area. So I was extremely lucky not to get a Car that was totally no good (198 K Miles on it). Over the first 3 years of ownership I had a lot of the stuff I read about that had happened to others happen to My Car. It spend sometimes a couple of Months sitting in the Drive Way before it got fixed. Most of the fixes were Rubber Parts.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#23
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In my experience, the rubber parts in the engine last a very very long time. I'd not change things unless they fail or look about to. I also would not expect it to be a money pit. I'd expect it to take some maintenance. These cars when in good condition provide decades of excellent service. Change the oil regularly and keep the coolant in good shape and drive it and enjoy!
If the car were from the deep south perhaps the rubber would be more of an issue, but its pretty low miles and a near northern car just outside the worst salting of the roads. Great fine! Good luck with it.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#24
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It sure does look pretty.....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#25
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Having gone through three 1985 190d's:
THe first one was from Rhode Island, and was a notorious rust heap and not worth the effort it took to keep it going, but I learned a lot. It sits in the woods now as a hulk. The second one had 125000 miles on it and had been extensively refurbished; I drove it for three years with no issues other than a wiper motor failure. I sold it with rust in the wheel arches and jack points, but as a good running commuter. The third I just bought in a similar condition to the OP here, but with even lower miles. SO heres the skinny: 30 year old cars are 30 years old, no matter how few miles on them. They need lots of attention; things dry out, crumble and fall off. Thats not miles, thats age. But since youre into driving a 30 year old car, it might as well look good for all the effort. We can all agree on that right? It's so common to read here about people getting really thrashed examples of these models and then trying in vain to "bring them back". The point is: there is nothing you cant fix, replace or rebuild on these cars, but the condition of the chassis is everything. You have to start with good bones. The guy got the best deal going: a sheltered car with enough miles on it to have its second front end/head gasket/brake system rebuild. I say thats the sweet spot all the way around. |
#26
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When folks decide to pursue these cars and buy a good example, they're excited. I was. Keep us posted on your continuing passion.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#27
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Here's how I look at it:
Is the OP going to have to spend an average of 2-$300 a month in upkeep costs to keep this car as a daily driver? Probably. Is he going to be driving around in a car that crushes all the modern cars on the road stylistically (on which their owners are spending way over that in just monthly financing - maintenance aside)? Definitely. Be a realist, but enjoy it!!
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1981 300TD 1985 300TD |
#28
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^ $200 to $300 a month? Are you kidding me? If not, sorry to hear it.
I've these, yes, two, on hand and don't spend anywhere close to that amount.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#29
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Maybe so. Mine (the 85) is a true dd. 50-100 average every day. And including cost to replace (think Maine winters, not your piddling VA ones I'm sure I am close to that. YMMV.
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1981 300TD 1985 300TD |
#30
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Maybe so?
That rate, $200-$300 a month is new car money, not 30 year old stuff, sorry. Living in VA, I would assume, is an advantage, as opposed to the rust belt. After owning five of these, still, come on. Since 2003, all I've owned have been these cars. That's why I have two.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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