|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
W124 rear window regulators ... getting it out
I'm in the process of trying to replace the rear window regulator, and have hit a bit of a snag in the instructions. FSM, DIYs, etc., describe doing the job with the window down. Well, the window won't move. I am going to double-check the wiring first (i.e., wire the motor directly to battery) to rule that out, but can someone explain to me preemptively, since I may not have time to get back online while I'm working on it, how I proceed if there isn't any way to get the window down? Any way to do it manually? Or just wedge it in place and try to get the clip off? Of course I don't know what the clip looks like or how anything comes apart, and I can't see it up there. One way or another I need to get the window down, so I can paint along the sill on that door (and get the quarter window out too).
Oddly enough the wires in the door jam look fine, though I need to cut apart the bundle and look closer ... they were an obvious mess on the other door.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I was able to fix one door/window, but not the other which is in the same up (ain't coming down for now) position. IDK how to get it down, but will see what develops with responses to your thread. HTH. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
I think once you get the door panel off you can unbolt the motor from the regulator and go from there.
Its all impossible to visualize with the panel on and it looks impossible with it off too but if you keep after it after an hour or so of cussing and contorting your hands and wrists you can generally get the job done.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Update: connected regulator directly to battery and got nothing. My wiring did get the replacement unit to move easily so I know I didn't just wire it wrong. So, it's stuck. I am fairly certain from looking at the replacement unit it isn't possible to remove the motor, esp when it's in the door. I have to think someone's had to do this before, as I'd think most reulator s that need to be replaced are broken. I guess I'll have to just start pushing things around, but I don't want to end up breaking the glass or anything else in there. Should I maybe just cut the cable, since the whole unit is to be replaced?
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Look at the new one... Blindly get tools in the door, and unhook the motor from its gearbox and wriggle it out, then you should be able to lower the window, or swap in the working motor.
FYI, the original motor may just need the limit leaf repaired, or bypassed...
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
OK, I'll see if I can get it off ... the one on the replacement regulator seems really stuck on, and I don't want to mess too much and damage it ... but I can see where the screws are so I'll try it on the non-working one in the door. So the window will be movable by hand without the motor attached? Should I secure the window in place before removing motor (i.e., is the window going to fall down once I take it off!)?
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I'd take some duct or packing tape over the top of the door to keep it from doing the guillotine on you.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
I'm probably to late but you can try this little trick I have used many times. If it is a motor problem and the switches and wiring check out, you can turn the ign on, press the switch to the down position and hold it. Then tap the motor with a small hammer or what ever you can get in there. Some times it really helps to have a helper. When we worked on power window problems and it is the motor, 9 our of 10 times this trick would work. But don't think it is a permanent fix. It will usually work a few times and then quit again.
Just be careful and don't let the window get your hammer hand if it starts down. If it starts down, let the switch go or remove jumper wires if you are using that way to get power and get all hands, arms and fingers out of harms way. It will run again a few times. Paul
__________________
84 500 SEL (307,xxx miles) |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Certainly cutting the cable would get the window down. It's been some time since I worked on a 124 window, but I think it's similar to a 201. On the 201, the lifter slide clips into place on the bottom rail of the window. If you pry out the clip, you can manipulate the window and lifter to get them separate. There's a tab on the top of the lifter that engages the inside of the door frame, make sure you unhook it when removing, and hook the new one in when installing.
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
That is the way a 210 window is set up, so I suspect it's the way they did the 124. The little black clip is hooked into the aluminum piece. Once you release the clips and pull the black piece down, now you can slide the white piece (that is moved by the motor up and down the rail) left or right to release it from the aluminum piece (that is attached to the bottom of the glass).
Tough to describe but once you do it it's like "that was too easy". Best to have a helper hold the window glass from above since you are going to have to manipulate the glass to get the white piece off the little grooved track. Once you have detached the glass from the actuator then be ready because it will drop down. Have several strips of "blue" tape at the ready to stick on the inside and outside of the glass, wrapped over the top of the door frame.
__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family Still going strong 2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD) 2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD) both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023 2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles) 2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles) 1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh 1987 300TD sold to vstech |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Well, it's out, without getting the window down first ... so it is possible. I managed to find the clip and remove it, then just finagle the regulator assembly to slide the white piece out. What kind of hung me up was that little tab holding the top of the regulator to the door ... didn't notice that, so I couldn't figure out why the white part wouldn't slide out (or window come down at all). Once I managed to get that tab unhooked it wasn't too bad. Lowered the glass into the door and put towels around it. Now I can't get the quarter glass out. The rail in front of it is out, but it won't budge. If I can get that out, then I can do my rust touchups and paint, and get the working regulator in.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
This is definitely one of those hard to visual jobs that doesn't seem that bad once you've actually done it.
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks Bodhi and others for finishing out the thread, really helpful. So from what I get the white tab/slider is buried up high in the door when the window is up, unhook that and the window comes free of the regulator. Thanks and any other tips or tricks are always appreciated.
|
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) |
Bookmarks |
|
|