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  #1  
Old 09-03-2014, 02:11 PM
BodhiBenz1987's Avatar
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W124 rear window regulators ... getting it out

I'm in the process of trying to replace the rear window regulator, and have hit a bit of a snag in the instructions. FSM, DIYs, etc., describe doing the job with the window down. Well, the window won't move. I am going to double-check the wiring first (i.e., wire the motor directly to battery) to rule that out, but can someone explain to me preemptively, since I may not have time to get back online while I'm working on it, how I proceed if there isn't any way to get the window down? Any way to do it manually? Or just wedge it in place and try to get the clip off? Of course I don't know what the clip looks like or how anything comes apart, and I can't see it up there. One way or another I need to get the window down, so I can paint along the sill on that door (and get the quarter window out too).
Oddly enough the wires in the door jam look fine, though I need to cut apart the bundle and look closer ... they were an obvious mess on the other door.

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  #2  
Old 09-03-2014, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BodhiBenz1987 View Post
Oddly enough the wires in the door jam look fine, though I need to cut apart the bundle and look closer ... they were an obvious mess on the other door.
IRCC my wires looked fine too until I looked behind the B Pillar, then I saw the damaged/cut wires. (BTW- good time to re-glue the mb-tex to the pillar, BUT its a pita to get it back in)

I was able to fix one door/window, but not the other which is in the same up (ain't coming down for now) position. IDK how to get it down, but will see what develops with responses to your thread.

HTH.
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  #3  
Old 09-03-2014, 03:43 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I think once you get the door panel off you can unbolt the motor from the regulator and go from there.

Its all impossible to visualize with the panel on and it looks impossible with it off too but if you keep after it after an hour or so of cussing and contorting your hands and wrists you can generally get the job done.
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  #4  
Old 09-03-2014, 05:32 PM
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Update: connected regulator directly to battery and got nothing. My wiring did get the replacement unit to move easily so I know I didn't just wire it wrong. So, it's stuck. I am fairly certain from looking at the replacement unit it isn't possible to remove the motor, esp when it's in the door. I have to think someone's had to do this before, as I'd think most reulator s that need to be replaced are broken. I guess I'll have to just start pushing things around, but I don't want to end up breaking the glass or anything else in there. Should I maybe just cut the cable, since the whole unit is to be replaced?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #5  
Old 09-03-2014, 06:25 PM
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Look at the new one... Blindly get tools in the door, and unhook the motor from its gearbox and wriggle it out, then you should be able to lower the window, or swap in the working motor.
FYI, the original motor may just need the limit leaf repaired, or bypassed...
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  #6  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
Look at the new one... Blindly get tools in the door, and unhook the motor from its gearbox and wriggle it out, then you should be able to lower the window, or swap in the working motor.
FYI, the original motor may just need the limit leaf repaired, or bypassed...
OK, I'll see if I can get it off ... the one on the replacement regulator seems really stuck on, and I don't want to mess too much and damage it ... but I can see where the screws are so I'll try it on the non-working one in the door. So the window will be movable by hand without the motor attached? Should I secure the window in place before removing motor (i.e., is the window going to fall down once I take it off!)?
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1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #7  
Old 09-03-2014, 07:30 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I'd take some duct or packing tape over the top of the door to keep it from doing the guillotine on you.
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  #8  
Old 09-03-2014, 08:43 PM
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I'm probably to late but you can try this little trick I have used many times. If it is a motor problem and the switches and wiring check out, you can turn the ign on, press the switch to the down position and hold it. Then tap the motor with a small hammer or what ever you can get in there. Some times it really helps to have a helper. When we worked on power window problems and it is the motor, 9 our of 10 times this trick would work. But don't think it is a permanent fix. It will usually work a few times and then quit again.

Just be careful and don't let the window get your hammer hand if it starts down. If it starts down, let the switch go or remove jumper wires if you are using that way to get power and get all hands, arms and fingers out of harms way. It will run again a few times.

Paul
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  #9  
Old 09-03-2014, 09:36 PM
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Certainly cutting the cable would get the window down. It's been some time since I worked on a 124 window, but I think it's similar to a 201. On the 201, the lifter slide clips into place on the bottom rail of the window. If you pry out the clip, you can manipulate the window and lifter to get them separate. There's a tab on the top of the lifter that engages the inside of the door frame, make sure you unhook it when removing, and hook the new one in when installing.
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W124 rear window regulators ... getting it out-img_0091.jpg   W124 rear window regulators ... getting it out-img_0203.jpg  
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  #10  
Old 09-04-2014, 04:15 PM
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That is the way a 210 window is set up, so I suspect it's the way they did the 124. The little black clip is hooked into the aluminum piece. Once you release the clips and pull the black piece down, now you can slide the white piece (that is moved by the motor up and down the rail) left or right to release it from the aluminum piece (that is attached to the bottom of the glass).

Tough to describe but once you do it it's like "that was too easy".

Best to have a helper hold the window glass from above since you are going to have to manipulate the glass to get the white piece off the little grooved track. Once you have detached the glass from the actuator then be ready because it will drop down. Have several strips of "blue" tape at the ready to stick on the inside and outside of the glass, wrapped over the top of the door frame.
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  #11  
Old 09-08-2014, 03:31 AM
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Well, it's out, without getting the window down first ... so it is possible. I managed to find the clip and remove it, then just finagle the regulator assembly to slide the white piece out. What kind of hung me up was that little tab holding the top of the regulator to the door ... didn't notice that, so I couldn't figure out why the white part wouldn't slide out (or window come down at all). Once I managed to get that tab unhooked it wasn't too bad. Lowered the glass into the door and put towels around it. Now I can't get the quarter glass out. The rail in front of it is out, but it won't budge. If I can get that out, then I can do my rust touchups and paint, and get the working regulator in.
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1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
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  #12  
Old 09-08-2014, 03:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
There's a tab on the top of the lifter that engages the inside of the door frame, make sure you unhook it when removing, and hook the new one in when installing.
I didn't understand this until struggling for several minutes to move the white slider with that tab still hooked ... then I saw it and it all made sense.

This is definitely one of those hard to visual jobs that doesn't seem that bad once you've actually done it.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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  #13  
Old 09-08-2014, 12:42 PM
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Thanks Bodhi and others for finishing out the thread, really helpful. So from what I get the white tab/slider is buried up high in the door when the window is up, unhook that and the window comes free of the regulator. Thanks and any other tips or tricks are always appreciated.
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  #14  
Old 09-08-2014, 04:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by treetops View Post
Thanks Bodhi and others for finishing out the thread, really helpful. So from what I get the white tab/slider is buried up high in the door when the window is up, unhook that and the window comes free of the regulator. Thanks and any other tips or tricks are always appreciated.
Yes, you can actually get a decent view of the clip and slider if you peek in the right opening in the door frame with a flashlight. The clip on the slider actually comes out pretty easily (or mine did). Undo all the bolts/nuts holding he regulator on, then swing it to the rear of the door and push up slightly to disengage the hook at the top ... kind of just a matter of pushing and shoving until it comes out. Once it comes out, you can lower the whole thing (window and regulator) a little bit to slide the white part out. I recommend hooking tape over the top of the door to the window, but with a little room ... once you get the regulator unhooked, push the window all the way up and tighten the tape to hold the window all the way up. Then finagle the regulator out.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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