Hi all,

I'm having trouble installing my rear axles on my 72 250 W114.

Here is the tread I started on the vintage side
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/352366-axle-wont-go.html

But basically not matter how high I bring the diff I don't have enough room to put in the new axles. The new axles appear to be a tiny bit shorter than the old. I had to use a pry par to get the old ones out.

Anybody in the area can help out with this project? I would really appreciate it.

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72 250 M130 W114

A fresh set of eyes on the problem would really help - I've been scratching my head trying to figure out why such a straight-forward job has been so difficult. I'd like to see if for myself - but Texas is a little bit out of my way...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

C'mon Stretch, you put so much effort into this a little hop over here won't kill you

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72 250 M130 W114

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/352366-axle-wont-go-2.html

I updated the other thread..

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Well I hates to fly...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I had the same issue when installing a new differential and axles. The axle end just wouldn't clear that last 1/4". What worked for me was to lower the differential, insert the axle ends at the hub, then raise the differential and bolt it in place.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Thanks SD. Did you have to remove the nut holding the shock and remove the connection to the sway bar?

I got one side in, with your suggestion, but I had already disconnected the items above. I'm wondering if I need to do that on the other side as well.

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72 250 M130 W114

I tried disconnecting the shock and sway bar. The differential was against the "floor" and literally raising the car. The wheels were dangling as far as I could get them and the axle ends still wouldn't clear that last little bit. Eventually, I found that it was unnecessary to disconnect other suspension components.

Hopefully, I can describe what I went through, from recommendation here on the forum. I raised the rear of the car and had the wheels suspended. The axles were installed and clipped at the differential and the assembly was resting on a lowered jack. I then inserted the axles into the hubs and raised the jack just enough to bolt the ends. All I had to do then was raise the differential and bolt it to the subframe and rear mount.

Basically, you bolt the axles in a "V" then raise the jack to invert the "V" to bolt the differential. I was surprised how easy it was once someone told me how. Virtually minimal prying to line things up.

(Note: You may need to raise and lower the jack several times to position the differential where it will meet the subframe evenly. All four studs need to insert at once. On mine, the tolerances were tight enough that starting two and trying to tilt the differential for the other two, just wasn't going to get it.)

Hope that helps.
Sam

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Sam

That was very helpful.

I did remove the nuts from the differential, and had a hard time separating the diff from the subframe, and with a lot of raising and lowring and prying I got it to separate.

I need to find new bolts for the axles and I'll do the V to inverted V thing like you mentioned. Thanks again.

George

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72 250 M130 W114

Sam,

Any tips to re-allign the diff + subframe?

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72 250 M130 W114

I'm having a real hard time dropping the 3rd member. any advice? It gets stuck on the studs.

Thanks

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72 250 M130 W114

Silly question but do I need to keep the subframe in the up position while I lower the differential? Also the flexdisk is still attached....

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72 250 M130 W114