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#1
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300SDL A/C problem
My climate control module went out before and I replaced it. A/C was working intermittently. A/C has been working for a few months and just stopped. Compressor will not kick on no matter which button is pressed. I checked the ovp relay and fuse works. Tach is also working. Pulled kilma and jumped pins 5 and 7. Compressor still will not kick on. What else should I check? Coolant temp sensor was replaced in February.
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1987 300 SDL 2000 E320 Wagon |
#2
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Check to see if you have refrigerant in the system. That is always first...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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Quote:
It could be the ACC is faulty and not putting out 12V. Try jumping 12V directly to compressor. It could be faulty.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#4
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Which wires do I jump? There are multiple coming out of compressor
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1987 300 SDL 2000 E320 Wagon |
#5
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I am not too sure as I never have a need to jump any SDL compressor. Ignore the rpm sensor wiring at the back of the compressor. Whatever left is the coil wiring for the clutch. It may be chassis ground plus 1 terminal. First measure the harnesss to see whether you have 12V with one of the pin to chassis when you jumped terminal 5-7 at the Kilma. If you do then the compressor is bad. If you don't then the problem is upstream. You can put 12v to the compressor terminal and you should hear a click. Be careful if you have the engine running. Good luck.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed. W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html 1 X 2006 CDI 1 x 87 300SDL 1 x 87 300D 1 x 87 300TDT wagon 1 x 83 300D 1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry. |
#6
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Checking the refrigerant is a clean, standing up, easy check... if no problem with the pressures... then you KNOW the problem is in the electronics somewhere.......
but you could have a faulty connection in something you check...and waste a lot of time...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#7
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It appears that my car has different pinouts for kilma. I traced the wires and here is the pinout. This is the plug for the compressor upside down and the wires facing the firewall.
Left>pin 9 kilma center>pin 11 kilma right>pin 7 kilma Kilma pin 5 is ground Kilma pins 1 and 2 are +12v ignition switched Which wire should I jump to +12v?
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1987 300 SDL 2000 E320 Wagon |
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