Stuck W123 driveshaft
 

I am having a very difficult time removing the driveshaft from my 83 240D parts car. I have removed the bolts holding the shaft to the flex disk on both ends as well as the bolts holding the carrier bearing in the middle but no luck. I did not remove the flex disk to diff or transmission bolts. Any suggestions?

Ive always had good success with a lot of pb blaster and the biggest prybar i have to pop the individual rusted in parts of the flex disc

Is it stuck on the flex discs, or is the issue actually removing the loose shaft?

If the second issue ive jacked up the gearbox and removed completely the trans cross member ,then pulled out towards the front

My DS was stuck to the flex disc, I had to put a regular screwdriver and tap to get the shaft to loosen off the disc..

The Tubes on the Flex Disc go into recesses in the Yoke with sort of a light press fit and then they rust in place.

In My case they were also frustrating to remove but I kept working them and eventually they came loose. Should be info on that in them DIY Repair Links.
Penatrating Oil can help. But, don't get Oil on the New Flex Discs.

You also need to lossen the Collar Nut on the Drive Shaft.

Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

Once the Flex Disc is loose there is a Pin that centers each end that is more than 1 Inch long.

It's stuck on the flex disk. I have a small pry bar I will try tomorrow since I didn't have any luck with a screwdriver.


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I forgot about the collar nut. Hmm I will also need to track down some big wrenches.


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I think the most challenging part of this job might be finding the wrenches I need to collapse the driveshaft. Has anyone used an adjustable or stilson wrench?


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For the collar nut, I just used a couple of cheap, large, adjustable wrenches from Harbor Freight. Some have even had success with large groove-joint pliers with the jaws wrapped in duct tape. Usually, the nut isn't torqued that tight.

On the Collar Nut I used a Cain Pipe Wrench to Loosen it and a Big Channel Locks to counter Hold.

I guess I could have used the Chain Wrench to tighten it but I bought a large Combination Wrench with the Intention of cutting it in half but did not have the heart to do that.

When installing snug the Collar Nut down by hand and put the Car on the Wheels and in Neutral and roll the Car Back and forth (if needed have someone inside to brake).
That centers the Drive Shaft before you tighten it.

I was barly able to squeeze under the Car and have enough room to tighten the Collar Nut with the Big Combination Wrench an I didn not counter hold the Shaft.

There is a specific Torque on the Collar Nut but I have not read of anyone using a Torque Wrench on it.

Leverage is your friend or arms like PopEye. Long prybar !

IIRC, the punkin is on a subframe that can be lowered, or maybe it bolts to the underside of the trunk. I forget for sure. Once this is done, it's easier to get out, and it's not important to collapse the driveshaft. It's been years, but the first time, when I did it right was a lot easier than the second time when I squeezed it in without liberating the punkin.

But at the flex disks, pry apart w/ large lever. When using big levers on a car, watch out for unintended consequences that could topple or collapse a jack stand and squish you, or at least leave you shaking.

Ya the flanges always get stuck on the flex disks. PB, hammer chisel.

Got it loose finally but I can't compress the driveshaft enough without some wrenches. Oh well off to Harbor Freight I go.

You marked the two parts so they go back exactly the same, right?

I didn't need to. They were already marked with arrow stickers. Some parts of this car were definitely taken care of properly.