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  #61  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:16 AM
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Yup. Something like that. As long as it lets fuel flow thru when it is off, you can leave it installed and only use it when you need it. Just like a primer hand pump.

I use it after every fuel system repair. I originally installed it 6 years ago to find an air leak. 15 seconds after I powered it on, I found fuel dripping out from behind the fuel control valve. It was the o-ring between that valve and the IP.

Seeing the amount of time and money people spend chasing down air leaks in these cars and/or trying to get them primed and started after fuel system repairs, $35 is so cheap and easy.

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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #62  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiodieselMB View Post
thank you for that photo. I will look for such a thing.

Now that the car is running should I take the car to a shop and have the cars injection timing tuned? Or should I just drive for a while and check the mileage on a tank full of fuel and look for smoke etc.? or is the mirror trick good enough and I can go on with my life?
If when the crank is at 15ATDC you can see the IP's timing ridge in the center of the viewing port, you are done. Unless the car does not start and/or run properly.
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Greg
2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #63  
Old 09-29-2014, 11:58 AM
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Run it and run it hard. Make sure it will wind out easily to at least 4700 rpm. If it will then you should be good to go.
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  #64  
Old 09-29-2014, 12:51 PM
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Location: Texas
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Arrow next broblems

valve cover gasket blow out. when I adjusted the IP it had to move a lot so it looks like the #1 fuel line is in a bind.
Attached Thumbnails
210 606 no start-gasket-blow-out.jpg   210 606 no start-1-fuel-line-crooked.jpg  
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  #65  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:38 PM
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new fuel liaks

It looks like there is fuel on top of the IP for the first time now. I guess that the fuel line are in a bind.

Is the procedure to loosen the nuts and bend the lines?
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  #66  
Old 09-29-2014, 01:59 PM
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I would bend the lines first without loosening the nuts. This is based on my experience.

Here's why: The nut keeps the line straight on the delivery valve fitting or injector when it's tight. If you loosen the nut and then bend the line, it's possible to produce a slight tilt in the fitting and it will leak becoming very difficult to stop. If you bend the lines and then loosen and re-tighten the fittings, they are less likely to leak.
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  #67  
Old 09-29-2014, 02:10 PM
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thanks for the tip. off with the manifold.
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  #68  
Old 09-29-2014, 02:19 PM
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I would not bend the line. The flare connection is self centering. Back off the nut and re-tighten a little more till it stops leaking. These are often over torqued to the point where grooves are worn in, and in extreme cases, the flare ends crack. It only needs to be tightened so it seals and a little more beyond. On lines that are worn to the point that always leak, I have been successful in fixing them by freehand sanding the flare ends with 400 grit wet/dry paper.
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  #69  
Old 09-29-2014, 02:52 PM
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now that the manifolds off the fuel is coming from under the connections.
Attached Thumbnails
210 606 no start-ip-lines-hoses-.jpg   210 606 no start-fuel-leak-ip.jpg   210 606 no start-fuel-drips.jpg  
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  #70  
Old 09-29-2014, 03:10 PM
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IP seals?

The seals under the lines on top of the injection pump have been changed a few years ago. I have the special MB splined socket. Is it possible that those connections were loosed during the IP adjustment?
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  #71  
Old 09-29-2014, 04:05 PM
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Delivery valve!

Its called the delivery valve (I had forgotten what to call it) This is the last possible leak area as every other o-ring is new. So I have ordered a full set of Viton o-rings from XXXXX XXXXX and will know that they are all new and viton. Forget all mention of the easily forgotten company that sells o-rings. Will get the measurements for the o-rings and order from McMaster. Will post sizes and prices.

Last edited by BiodieselMB; 10-14-2014 at 07:54 PM.
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  #72  
Old 10-01-2014, 10:26 PM
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Runs great ...but

The car runs better that new. Hard to believe but with the exhaust mod and the egr mod and the newly timed IP, new radiator, new shut off valve and heat exchanger and new etc. it just runs strong and fast. Unfortunately I am removing all of my fuel line work in order to install viton everywhere as well as a primer pump.
210 606 no start-fuel-pump-prime.jpg
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  #73  
Old 10-02-2014, 10:16 AM
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Code P0120 - Throttle position sensor switch "A" circuit

cleared all of the codes that were present from having everything unplugged. Autozone will not clear codes, weird company policy, thaey say that they will be fired if they clear codes. Several other places couldn't read the OBDII for some reason some said that the devices they use only work on 1998 and newer cars. Finally had to plug into the main data connection in the engine compartment at the fuse box (don't know what it is called) and after a 20 minuet diagnostic process finally cleared the codes.
Then while driving "check engine" again but it was intermittent, the light would go out but then it came back and went several times.
Years ago the car had the surging TPS code problem that was solved with the egr mod but now it's back. Is there a work around? And does anyone know where the "Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch "A" Circuit" is?
Thanks again, have a great day.
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  #74  
Old 10-02-2014, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BiodieselMB View Post
Its called the delivery valve (I had forgotten what to call it) This is the last possible leak area as every other o-ring is new. So I have ordered a full set of Viton o-rings from Fryer Power and will know that they are all new and viton.
Here's the info from their site:
Viton 606 O-Ring Kit, Free Shipping in the US!
$27.50
This is a kit of viton o-rings for the 606 engine.
- 2 Spin on fuel filter O-Rings (Numbers 11 and 14 in the linked diagram)
- 1 Prefilter O-Ring (Number 29 in the linked diagram)
- 1 Shutoff valve O-Ring
- 9 Fuel line O-Rings (one at the filter housing)
- 3 Fuel line at the filter housing O-Rings
- 6 Delivery valve O-Rings
- 1 Tank Screen O-Ring
606 Fuel System diagram.
The MB parts are made out of Buna (Nitrile). These are the same size O-Rings made out of Viton. Viton is the material of choice for vegetable oil and for biodiesel, and is also extremely resistant to ULSD.
Just wondering if you also ordered 6 delivery valve crush washers? I do not see them on the list, and I can tell you from experience that they should be changed when doing the job. If you do not change them out, you run the risk of the engine running like crap, especially at idol. It would be ashamed to do all that work, and then have to do it all over again. Good luck!!!
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  #75  
Old 10-02-2014, 10:38 AM
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No as a matter of fact I am having much trouble finding a source for them. The Mercedes dealer had no knowledge of them or a schematic that shows them. I did change them years ago but cannot find anyone that knows anything about them now.

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