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#61
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Quote:
Edit: I found it. Thanks so much. I'll look into it. I get it guys, thanks. I just really want to rebuild a diesel, but this one isn't it. I'll drop in a used motor, but in the long term, I'm gonna rebuild a 617 for this things, when I can afford it, have the time, and the proper machine shop to help. I'll let you know if I get this 615 Last edited by Lucas; 09-29-2014 at 11:56 AM. |
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#63
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This is the fastest moving thread ever. We have moved from rebuilding an engine, to parting out the car, to replacing the engine, to ???
So to perhaps slow things down a bit... did you get a chance to experience what it is like to drive a w115 with a om615 220d engine? Some people enjoy it and some people don't. For instance, around town, I really enjoy mine. But I don't like freeway driving much because of the hills. I cannot maintain normal freeway speeds so I either have to block traffic in the slow lane or drive on the shoulder. And neither of those is fun. If you like to drive Hwy 154 between SB and Lake Cachuma and you want to do so without holding up traffic, perhaps the om615 is not the engine for you. On the flat, the TOP speed of my car (an auto mind you) is around 80 mph. A manual will be a few mph faster, but keep in mind the engine is redlining to maintain these speeds. As soon as the road tips up, your top speed drops quickly. Up over cuesta grade near me, I can probably only maintain 50 mph, while everyone else is still going 75. Regardless of whether you buy an engine or replace an engine, I would hate for you to end up with something that doesn't suit your needs. If my 220d was a little more powerful, it could serve as my only car. But as it is now, it is really just a toy which I use on rare occasion for fun. That is a slight shame, but a fact. My car got a replacement mercedes engine at some point and I am fortunate to have good compression, but if ever it needs a third engine, my plan is to go crazy and try to drop a om602 into it. I would really enjoy my car more if it was able to maintain freeway speeds better.
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
#64
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Good point. And yeah I'm all over the place with this project. I did put about 500 miles on it. I don't mind the speed so much, but ideally I do want a little more out of it.
I called about the 615 in San Jose, google voice number not hooked up with a full voicemail. It's such a shot in the dark I feel like. Found an auto trans version in LA, 115,00 miles (not sure how they know this), and he couldn't remember compression. I'll check out that other motor, slow down, and think about it. Some people say it's not worth the work, but if I enjoy the car... I have a work truck I'm using. But it gets horrible gas mileage so ideally I would be driving the car. |
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Lucas, Read Shortguys1 post over and over and over.... a really good description of the situation...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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It totally makes sense. My dilemma is not being ready for the task currently. My original plan was keep the motor moving, go through the wheels, axles, brakes. A little body work and fresh paint, and fixing any little Knick knacks that come along. With time I can watch for a good donor car and be prepared for the swap. I'm hesitant to try a swap with little time for research, no donor and not wanting to spend the money right now.
I think my best option is to find a used 615, cut my losses, and continue on. I have the used 615 with "115,000" miles down to $500, and I have trucks going back and forth already. I can Drive the car then, no hills on my commute, and stop stressing. |
#67
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You have the 615, 616,617 NA FSM ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
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If you get a 616 that came in a 123, then yes it will need some things changed to go in a 115. However, they put 616 and 617 engines in the later 115 bodies. Those go in with a lot less work.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
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Yes I do have the engine FSM for 615, 616, and 617 for the 114/115.
I'm understanding that now, finding a 617 NA from a 115. I've spotted one in Blountville, TN. I'll do some more searching on here to see what it entails Thank you all for helping, and being patient as I have a mental break down over this project. I'm working on just enjoying it and taking my time. Last edited by Lucas; 09-29-2014 at 05:43 PM. |
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I know, he's worse than me!
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#71
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Quote:
is it the paper version ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#72
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No digital. But it's a copy of the actual original, not a WIS manual. eBay. They ask $35 obo, they will take $20. Seller is mbmanuals.
Im going through that and another site looking at part numbers between my car and 76 115 300d. Engine mounts the same. Driveshaft is different? I've searched and searched and haven't seen anyone say I will have to shorten it. Now looking into the fan/radiator/ shroud setup. It's a safe assumption the bigger radiator will be needed. I'm going to make some local calls tomorrow before shipping a motor from Tennessee. I work in produce and freight so it's an easy task though. What I'm getting at, is where will the extra space go? Behind the motor mounts, in front, or a little of both? I'll keep searching but any leads are appreciated. Last edited by Lucas; 09-30-2014 at 03:56 AM. |
#73
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If it's like a W123, then the front of the engine goes in the same place. The back of the engine is one cylinder closer to the firewall, the transmission is that much further back, and the driveshaft is correspondingly shorter.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
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I was close. I almost pulled the trigger. And I'm glad to know before what it will entail.
I got a phone call from a guy with a 220D motor just 30 min away for $550. I checked it out, did compression cold and got 220 psi, 160 psi on one cylinder. He had a tiny half dead battery and we rigged it with jumper cables. The guy runs a junk yard, but actually is my neighbor. He's gonna drop the motor off so I can play with it some more. I figured I can adjust the valves, put some good leads to an appropriate charged battery, and run compression again. If negative results, or maybe if positive, perform a leak down test. Is it silly to be doing cold compression? Is their some sort of corrilation between hot and cold test? My current understanding is it might highlight a problem that won't show with hot compression, which is all I really care about, but it may be a problem down the road. |
#75
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Cold compression is what gets it started. I think it's kind of silly to be testing hot compression. BTW 220 is bad and 160 is horrible.
__________________
Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. |
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