Interesting; I'll have to look for this once I get mine. Thank you.

Interesting, sounds like playing with the rack dampener might be the smart thing to do then. The shaking just kind of started on a drive a few weeks after I got the car. I noticed that there's not much room to work on the rack dampener bolt... do i need to remove the oil filter housing or anything else to access it?

You don't need to move the oil filter housing. There is enough room to access the damper.

I'm hoping to never need to remove the oil filter housing again with the engine installed. Much work for such a simple procedure. Raise the engine if you need to ever pull the housing.

I'll look into the gauge for positioning the engine on the motor mounts.

__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Raising the Idle speed with the Idle Ajustment Screw would do the same as running the Rack Damper Screw in all the way. The higher the Idle the smoother it runs. It would be simliar to stepping on the Accelerator Pedal.

However, the way the Governor works after the Rack moves in a certain amount you are no longer on the Governor till you get up to reallly High rpmsl like. 4500-5200 rpms.

I have read that runing the Idle Speed too high and runing the Rack Damper Screw in too far can cause a mini runaway when you apply the Pedal.

In any even your idle is not supposed th hang on the Rack Dampner screw. You adust your Idle Speed and then adjust the Rack Damper to try to remove the Shaking. If the Rack Dampner Screw starts to raise the Idle speed much you have gont to far.

Also whan I compared My old Rack Dampner with the New one the Plunger on the Old was worn and the Spring felt about 1/2 as strong.

I believe the Rack Damper is only designed to remove the shaking from an Engine that is operating close to the spec of a new Engine. It is not going to be enough to companensate for let us say a set of worn out Injectors.

This is no prediction but If your Engine is shaking badly I have always believed that and unbalanced Injectors contributs to the Crank Damper eating up the DAmper Dowel Pins and their Holes. I suppose uneven compresson also would contribute to that.

I can say that in My case that was true. I bought the new Rack Damper Screw because that is what many threads said could be the casue of the Shaking. When I installed it it did nothing noticable.
After replacing, fixing or adjusting Valves Idle Speed, Mounts, Injectors and a small Air Leal the Rack Damper was able to remove a tiny bit more shaking.
So what is going to fix the problem is going to depend on finding what is wrong.

Also Injector Nozzles are usualy worn out by 150K Miles. Mine looked like the originals as were clealy worn out at 198K which was the on the Car when I bought it.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel