Hi guys,

Is there an easy way to align the diff and the subframe to get all the studs to line up with the subframe?

Thanks

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72 250 M130 W114

I do not know that..
but the bigger question is how to align it with the rest of the car... and I know there is a huge section in one of the two Chassis Manuals..... very important to handling and tire wear....

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Oh bugger I thought this was all done and dusted.

Are you trying to get the differential (with the axles fitted) to mate with the subframe?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Exactly it my friend. I though the hard part would be over but getting it to line up has been a challenge.

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72 250 M130 W114

Oh for the love of $$#%$%#^ !

Have you got four studs fitted to the differential or have the studs come out with the nuts?

With four studs in the differential casing I'm kind of hoping you've got a chance of pushing the studs through the subframe holes.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

One stud came off. So you would think it would be simple to align it.

I've jacked the subrame as high as it will go and still can't get them to align. Maybe I need to take a break

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72 250 M130 W114

If you think you might need a break..... you need a break....
tired or frustrated around cars makes for accidents...

__________________
1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Initially, I had the same problem when I replaced the differential. What worked for me was to tilt the differential, on the jack, where the mount studs all entered the subframe at the same time.

It would not work, with any amount of prying, to start two at a time and try to lift it in place. The spacing of the mount holes is just too tight for this, as you are finding out.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Got it. Did you use 2 jacks at the same time or just muscled it in? any details on that?

Thanks Sam

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72 250 M130 W114

I used a single jack with a strap and various items to wedge it to obtain the correct angle. With this setup, I raised it delicately into place with one hand on the differential and one on the jack. Once I achieved the simultaneous entrance of the four studs into the subframe, it slipped right into place.

I've always wondered if a transmission jack might be beneficial for this task.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

I made a little angle plate that bolts onto the floor jack in place of the pad and then bolts to the two lower bolts securing the door. Just an piece of angle and some welding. Makes any work with the differential real easy including raising the dif into the four top bolt holes. Great for lowering the dif to get the axles to go into the wheel hub as well.

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1984 300SD turbo 126
"My true love"

God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom

Great info guys.

Thanks!

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72 250 M130 W114

I had the same issue just putting the Differential itself back in the Subframe. I don't know how many Hours I spent on it but I finally got it in.

I believe once you remove the Differential years of stress cause the Subframe to change shape; making it hard to get the Differential back in.

I don't know how I resisted the idea of enlarging the Holes but I did.

It would be nice if the Studs had pointed ends on them.

I did the job with a Floor Jack and a Sicssors Jack. I think if I had the Transmission Jack I bought recentely the job would have been a little easier.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I wonder what I'm doing that makes it so easy for me... I've never had issues with them.

are you guys dropping the subframe? or just lowering it, and trying to attach the diff with everything still attached?

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Lowering the diff while the subframe is still attached.

I'm sure removing the subframe would make things so much easier...

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72 250 M130 W114