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#31
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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect 91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect |
#32
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Engine cooling by fan isn't always necessary or desirable. It largely depends on the ambient temperature. For example here in Holland I can drive even in heavy traffic in the winter time without an engine cooling fan. I've "made it" through many winters like this at first keeping a very paranoid eye on the temperature gauge and eventually relaxing.
By the time we get a semi-warm summer I've noticed that an electric cooling fan is used only occasionally under normal driving. It is quite apparent that if you race about (or start towing things) the engine requires the extra cooling. Here in Holland where generally speaking high engine revs happen at higher road speeds you get enough of the ram air effect - air flowing through the engine bay cooling as it goes - for the majority of the year. Driving in other parts of the world with higher ambient air temperatures is different - for example there is no way I'd drive down to the South of France in the summer time without a reliable cooling fan fitted to an engine. However, in winter time in the north a continuously running cooling fan could over cool the engine. People put things in front of the their radiator grills in cold weather to stop the ram air effect and to help their engines get warm! For the reason of location and my normal use I prefer electric fans because they are intelligent - they switch on when cooling is necessary. The viscous clutched cooling fan is like a jerk who just won't stop pushing.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! Last edited by vstech; 10-01-2014 at 07:10 AM. Reason: P.C. Cleanup |
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Be it as it may, are there viscous clutches that are consider better than others?
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General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo |
#34
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Er sorry - back to the point of the thread - as far as I know there are no better or worse viscous cooling fans within the Mercedes stable.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#35
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Well, I wouldn't buy a Uro made fan clutch. Stick with OEM and the correct part for the car - is my advice.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#36
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Quote:
The MB water thermostat is a sophisticated design.... which is one reason people needing max cooling should not take it out of the system.... as might be ok with less sophisticated engines...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#37
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I bought a thermal clutch on ebay a year ago for $38, and has been working fine. I saw other prices >$100. PN 10957836, with no manufacturer listed. Perhaps the secret night shift at the Chinese Bosch factory.
update: I just ran across a post I made at the time and filed away: www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/346702-fan-clutch-change.html I try to post all my repairs, to give others ideas and archive for myself, though that seems to tick off a few people here. Your car, decide what you want to do and care to pay. Last edited by BillGrissom; 10-05-2014 at 06:33 PM. |
#38
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Quote:
Fan clutch Metal vs Plastic?? Quote:
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
#39
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Quote:
Quote:
I decided against a full on in-depth discussion about the heat engines (Heat engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia). I decided not to broaden the subject by comparing the much larger (volumetric) oil and coolant quantities within a Mercedes system and that of other manufacturer's. I refrained from discussing the inner workings of the OM617 cooling system, block heaters and glow plugs. It just didn't seem relevant to me.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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So you are going to be precise about what others include in their answers... but you totally leave ' viscous fan ' question ..because you want to talk about electric fans... . and that is just fine... LOL
A lot of justification going on there... ever heard the one about ' glass house dwellers'?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#41
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Quote:
__________________
General George - 1967 Land Rover 2a SWB 1983 OM617 Turbo |
#42
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Switched from a mechanical fan to eb*y electric in my gas 2.5L DD. The fan only comes on when revving at low speeds(1st gear moving stuff around the yard), hot summer days idling, or excessive idling otherwise. 97% of the time the fan doesn't come on, and my ultragauge reads out 180*-195*F.
Driving to work(20miles), with stoplights and the whole bit, even with a trailer it doesn't get hot enough to engage the fan.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#43
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Compared to the previous situation with overcooling, I'm happier the engine temp is back to 85 - 90 deg C range (it would previously dip below 80 C with a seized clutch + 9 bladed plastic fan).
The plastic fan was cracked so I opted to buy a new one.
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
#44
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Quote:
{yawn} Ever heard about sarcasm?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#45
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Only in the SD model. 85D model have bigger pulleys than 85SD.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
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