|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
240D Only starts in the morning with a shot of Starter Fluid
83 240D
Symptom: In the morning or just after not being started for a few hours. Car will either take forever to start (like it needs fuel) or drain the battery trying. Temp Solution: A shot of starter fluid in the intake tube will fire it right up. but obviously isnt good for it. Since the problem started i have verified the glow plugs, relay, battery and fuel primer pump plunger are good. what should i look into next? valve adjustment? something with the fuel? |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
A valve adjustment is always a good idea, especially this time of year. First question though is how did you verify the glow plugs, did you just ohm them out or did you physically remove them and see that they worked? Using ether is a REALLY bad idea in these engines.....
If the plugs check out I would look at all of your rubber lines as it could be an air leak.
__________________
2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Eyeball the fuel lines from engine to tank. It sounds like you have a bad hose or rusted hard line allowing air to bleed into the plumbing.
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
How long has this been going on ?
If you are pretty sure your glowplugs are getting hot.... you should pull them and ream the holes they are in....as carbon can build up to where they are not effective ... and it becomes that way slowly.... then cooler weather... or starter getting weaker..... along with weaker battery....and no start... You really need a properly done compression test... after being sure your valves are set properly.... A few seconds of ' ether ' sprayed into the intake While the engine is cranking is not going to hurt these engines..... Whunter and I have been saying that for years...check archives if you want the bigger discussion...
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
There is something obviously going on. Your daily temperatures are not low. I might tend to re examine the glow plugs and circuit first.
Have a look at the passenger light to determine that the glow plugs are actually on by the light being dimmer for the expected glow plug cycle first. This best done in poor lighting conditions sometimes. An engine will have some residual heat remaining after just several hours. So do the test after the car has sat for quite a time. The dimness of the light should substantially increase or become brighter when the sound of the glow plug relay opens up. I have this feeling the light may just remain constant for your test. Only after this simple test would I move along. Fuel drain back might be my next thought. Shutting the car off I would clamp the fuel line hose off just before the first fuel filter. Remove the clamp just prior to restarting the car a few hours later. I do not expect it to be fuel drain back if the transition from the starting fluid to diesel fuel running is smooth transition wise now. Neither test is absolutely conclusive but would provide some indication of where the problem probably is easily enough. Examine things like the primer pump and primary filter for fuel leakage before removing the clamp. I like to keep things really simple or as simple as I can initially. Last edited by barry12345; 10-08-2014 at 11:24 PM. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
passenger light? i have a manual relay setup now as i assumed the problem was the relay at first due to the fact the relay dash light was not coming on 100 percent of the time, less as the problem arose.
yes i ohm'd the glow plugs to verify they where good. next step sounds like removal and rheeming (i have the tool). and valve adjustment. fuel. i noticed a leak around the fuel primer plunger, replacing that seemed to fix that leak. being in California its still tshirt weather in the morning... |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Also if you could describe your manual replacement glow plug setup as it may be current limiting. The relay you are triggering must be good enough to carry probably 80 amps easily. I doubt you can easily find a manual switch to easily carry that much current. Another way is to measure the actual glow plug voltage present when your glow circuit is on. I am not positive but 10.5 volts to maybe 11 volts or even a little more is what I would want to see. This is just a guessmate by me voltage wise incidentally. The perverse logic is you almost certainly had glow plug circuit issues. Always backtrack if the issue does not seem really fixed first. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Adding the manual relay didn't change the issue at all really, same symptoms, just one less problem in the equation I guess..
I Run heavy gage cable to a heavy duty fuse then to a 80amp continuous duty 4 post manual relay... The other large post goes to the 4 pencil plugs ran in parallel, the 2 smaller post are ground, and the switch a heavy duty unit also, though the relay has all the load not the switch. I'll test the voltage out of the glad plug side of the switch tmrow for the sake of the thread. Thanks thus far. |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Please DO NOT use starting fluid. You are risking doing some serious damage to the engine. If you have to use anything, use some WD-40 to kick start a diesel motor. Works well and is a lot safer. Save the starting fluid for a gasser.
__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
pull each glow plug out, and attach jumper cables to them, connect cables to battery, and note if the tip glows. if the tip does not glow, toss the plug, and replace... repeat for the rest.
__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
In his first post the OP addresses that he realizes ether is not good for the car and is interested in fixing the car properly but I guess only I read that.
Adjust the valves, its never a bad idea. Are the fuel filters fresh? Also never a bad idea. And as suggested actually test the glow plugs out of the car. Have you used a test light to verify the glow plug relay is putting out power when it should be?
__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500 Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Spraying something like starter fluid into the intake for a few seconds with the engine cranking will do no harm...
There is not enough BTU's to hurt an engine which is designed for 21 to one compression ratio in the first place and uses Diesel fuel...which is very high in power... Whunter has weighed in on this ... if you can not figure it out yourselves... There are people on this forum who had to use a spray helper to start their cars FOR YEARS.... with no harm done...
__________________
1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
I did not read all of the Posts closely so this could be a repeat.
It could be that the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump is sort of losing its prime and the Fuel is migrating back to the Fuel Tank taking a lot of cranking to bring it back to the Fuel Supply/Lift Pump. To test for that before you start get on the Hand Primer and pump and pump and pump some more to bring Fuel up to the Fuel Injection Pump. If it starts like that you have identified at least part of the problem. There is cheap Fuel Supply Pump Rebuild Kits avaiilable. There is instructions to do the rebuild in the Repair Links. Repair Links Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/ http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Yeah enough about the Either, we are all adults and the motor has over 300k i understand how NOT to use either and how to.
Quote:
i have a feeling its the fuel return... to be continued |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
[QUOTE] In his first post the OP addresses that he realizes ether is not good for the car and is interested in fixing the car properly but I guess only I read that.
[QUOTE] Spraying something like starter fluid into the intake for a few seconds with the engine cranking will do no harm... There is not enough BTU's to hurt an engine which is designed for 21 to one compression ratio in the first place and uses Diesel fuel...which is very high in power... Whunter has weighed in on this ... if you can not figure it out yourselves... There are people on this forum who had to use a spray helper to start their cars FOR YEARS.... with no harm done... [QUOTE] Yeah enough about the Either, we are all adults and the motor has over 300k i understand how NOT to use either and how to. JESUS!!! All I did was try to offer some advice to someone...Guess since I don't have several thousand posts it means I don't have a clue or deserve lattitude..........I really appreciate getting chastized for simply offering some help and a safety precaution. Thanks................ __________________
__________________
2012 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec 91K (hers) 2005 Corvette 55K (fun car) 2002 VW Jetta TDI 231K (mine) 1998 Volvo S70 T5 Turbo 196K (kids) 1994 Ford F150 4WD 249K (firewood hauler) 1983 Mercedes 300D 376K (diesel commuter) |
Bookmarks |
|
|