? Clearance between steering pump belt and hoses - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

300TD1982 · #1 10-13-2014, 04:02 PM

There's about a half inch of space between the steering pump belt and the hose underneath (transmission hose?). Is that standard, or because I'm missing the engine shocks (mounts look ok), or because it's a radiator from a 1982 126 300sd??
Many thanks!

uberwasser · #2 10-13-2014, 04:41 PM

That's quite close. I'd suggest that you'd want to see at least 1" of clearance.

It would not be because of the motor shocks. They do nothing to support the engine weight.

The oil cooler (I assume this is what you mean when you say radiator) for the OM617 equipped W126 is the same part number as the W123 so they are interchangeable.

Your motor mounts are probably somewhat compressed.

300TD1982 · #3 10-13-2014, 04:51 PM

Thanks uberwasser! That hose is for oil, not transmission fluid? I'm not sure if the oil cooler has been replaced but for sure the radiator for the coolant has been replaced. I'll replace the engine mounts when I install the engine shocks. Might hack that hose off and put a longer one on today; I'm afraid to drive it now.
Thanks again!

spdrun · #4 10-13-2014, 04:56 PM

You'll need to cut off the crimp connections and double-clamp a oil-rated rubber 5/8" (e.g. MIL-H-6000 rated) hose in place. Unless the hose is damaged, don't bother.

If you're worried, what you CAN do is get an old radiator hose. Cut off a 3" section. Slice it lengthwise. Wrap the rubber around the oil hose to protect it from the belt, and zip-tie it in place.

300TD1982 · #5 10-13-2014, 05:09 PM

spdrun, thanks for the info. I'll wrap it for now. I'm going to a birthday party in two hours so that'll work for now. The hose IS damaged. It's been rubbed a bit but not leaking.
Thanks again!

vstech · #6 10-13-2014, 07:33 PM

most likely, your motor mounts are shot.
they may appear good, but be blown out internally.

you don't want to mess with the hose, unless it's leaking. don't bother wrapping the hose, unless you wrap it with steel... if the belt touches, the belt will cut through anything less that you wrap it with.

spdrun · #7 10-13-2014, 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

most likely, your motor mounts are shot.
they may appear good, but be blown out internally.

you don't want to mess with the hose, unless it's leaking. don't bother wrapping the hose, unless you wrap it with steel... if the belt touches, the belt will cut through anything less that you wrap it with.

Steel hose clamps around a piece of rubber would work in that instance. The area that the belt can contact is only about 1/2" wide, so two clamps should take care of the problem.

Junkman · #8 10-13-2014, 08:06 PM

I replaced the SD motor mounts with Febi mounts. They appear collapsed and the upper oil cooler line is wrapped and tied away from the PS pump. I'll compare to the other SD.

There was a post referring to a template in the FSM that is necessary to get the engine installed in the correct position. I_haven't found that yet. Also a post on filling the mounts to keep them from collapsing. I'd like to see what new mounts working correctly look like.

vstech · #9 10-13-2014, 10:19 PM

the distance between the upper and lower sections should be at least 1/2" I'll bet yours is nearly flush...

Junkman · #10 10-14-2014, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the distance between the upper and lower sections should be at least 1/2" I'll bet yours is nearly flush...

If you're referring to my new motor mounts, yes, they settled immediately upon installation and ruined the top oil cooler line. I figured it was my mistake for not checking better and also that something was wrong with my oil line install so ordered another new one. The 2nd line naturally sits too close to the PS pump pulley. I wrapped the line with 5/8 heater hose and used a worm clamp to hold it out of the way.

The FSM says that the left and right mount were of different hardnesses and marked with 1 dot for the passenger side and 2 dots for the drivers side.

Here's the link for filling.
380SL Diesel Conversion Project

DeliveryValve · #11 10-16-2014, 12:21 PM

I notice you have a brass radiator.

Picture from your other thread.
300TD Turbo 1982 W123 #011699

The brass radiator is definitely not factory. Maybe it is a bit narrow and causing the oil cooler to be mounted towards the center more. This might be the reason why the oil lines are close to the belts.

vstech · #12 10-16-2014, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DeliveryValve

I notice you have a brass radiator.

Picture from your other thread.
300TD Turbo 1982 W123 #011699

The brass radiator is definitely not factory. Maybe it is a bit narrow and causing the oil cooler to be mounted towards the center more. This might be the reason why the oil lines are close to the belts.

also, the car has been in an accident, perhaps the radiator is not positioned where it should be...

funola · #13 10-16-2014, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spdrun

Steel hose clamps around a piece of rubber would work in that instance. The area that the belt can contact is only about 1/2" wide, so two clamps should take care of the problem.

Then the steel hose clamp will probably wear through the belt before it has a chance to cut through the oil cooler hose.

vstech · #14 10-16-2014, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Then the steel hose clamp will probably wear through the belt before it has a chance to cut through the oil cooler hose.

actually, this is not the case... the hose clamp will be quickly overheated, and fail... the belt will FAR outlast the hoseclamp, the hose under it, and the hose it's protecting... friction of a large surface will RAPIDLY cut through any small surface...

funola · #15 10-16-2014, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

actually, this is not the case... the hose clamp will be quickly overheated, and fail... the belt will FAR outlast the hoseclamp, the hose under it, and the hose it's protecting... friction of a large surface will RAPIDLY cut through any small surface...

Depends on how the hose clamp is oriented. If the sharp corners of the hose clamp is contacting the belt, I believe the belt will lose. You can use the hose clamp to attach a steel blade to cut the belt expediently. A belt is a lot cheaper than an engine. But if you're gonna go to all that trouble, just replace the engine mount and install a micro switch alarm on the engine mount for no more worries.