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#1
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Preventing Burned Clutches
Like y'all's opinion on this. My preference is not to have barb fittings, as leery of them popping off. Further, the external cooler be mainly due to me burning up the clutches, and don't want to do that again. Figure when it gets below 64*F use cardboard to block the cooler?
So, is both sides of the transmission hose the same size? This is the plan I like to have critiqued: supply (driver's side) hard line, 16mmx1.5 to AN6 adapter, braided high pressure hose (braided to protect against the belts), AN6 to 3/8"NPT on the external cooler. Then the fluid goes through the cooler. AN6 to 3/8" adapter, AN6 hose, 16mmx1.5 to AN6 adapter on internal oil cooler. The fluid then goes through the internal oil cooler, so as picks up engine heat, allowing the transmission to have proper, quick, warm up. Only concern is the AN hose.Other option is have a couple hoses made up.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#2
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The correct transmission cooler hose is available online and the OE version has a spring coiled on the outside of the hose to prevent it from being cut. If the trans is operating properly, there should be no need to block anything off or modify the cooling system.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#3
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Beg pardon, but I believe the spring is there to help prevent the hose from kinking.
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#4
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Quote:
The transmission now shifts odd when going in out out of first. Fluid level is good, and has mostly been (small leak which I need to address A.S.A.P.). Basically, doesn't perform as it did when I got her back in 2012.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#5
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You need to explain "odd" in more detail.
Quote:
What did the transmission fluid look like (colour) when you got the car?
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Mac 2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d “Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22 |
#6
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Quote:
By odd, soggy, unsure. It's like it takes a moment to settle in to gear, but not a full true flare, though have had a few of those (fluid low most times). Turning the T key a notch helped (Tram's suggestion). There is just over 298,000, so getting up there for a transmission. Thus why I bought a used one; need to just pick it up from Oregon. The transmission fluid had been just changed, so the nice bright red color. Then over time went to schwarz braun. Been so busy not sure when. Instead of it having the nice smell, it has a nasty burned smell that stayed on my hands for the whole day.
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#7
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Quote:
External springs are for object impact resistance to prevent hose damage. This is also done in various steel lines on some cars to prevent denting. |
#8
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From reading your two threads I would say your fluid levels are too low. It is critical that the fluid level be within spec; I might be way wrong, but IMHO burnt clutches are casued by a low fluid level not by hot fluid.
You do not want leaks of AT fluid, not any, not ever. |
#9
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Quote:
Fluid level was fine, if not over full. It only got low after I changed the transmission fluid. Tomorrow that will be remedied when I add six quarts of A.T.F..
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Current fleet: 1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery. 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home. 1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out. 1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration. 1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health. |
#10
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__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
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