W123 axle replacement - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

subman60 · #1 10-31-2014, 03:10 PM

I need to replace an axle on a 240d. Other than the axle and diff cover gasket what else do I need to purchase? Since I've got to order the parts I want to make sure and get it all ordered the 1st time. Also on average how long does this job take for someone with basic mechanics skills?

uberwasser · #2 10-31-2014, 03:27 PM

In case you haven't seen it, check out this DIY.

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearAxles

There is no "diff cover gasket", you use RTV to create a seal.

You do however need a new axle output seal.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search_2014.cgi?command=DWsearch&description=003-997-83-47&I1.x=0&I1.y=0

A few hours on average can be expected.

DieselPaul · #3 10-31-2014, 03:28 PM

There is no diff cover gasket, just sealant,

Get an axle output seal. Those are cheap even from the dealer and you may as well do it when the axle it out.

Worth looking at your rear diff mount too, since you have to take it off or get one step away from taking it off, now would be a good time to do it if you need it.

I did the pair in around 2-3 hours, not sure if that's fast or slow.

edit:uberwasser beat me to it.

uberwasser · #4 10-31-2014, 03:43 PM

Here is a description I wrote for a friend a while back to boil down the steps. That DIY is pretty long, maybe this helps give perspective. It's not a bad job.

Raise car
Remove wheels
Remove calipers from rear wheel carriers, hang them up (for extra working room)
Drain diff fluid
Support the rear diff with a floor jack
Unbolt the diff mount from the diff cover, then unbolt the mount from the body and remove it
Lower the diff down a bit for easier access to all eight cover bolts, remove bolts and pull off cover
Hang axles with some wire to the sway bar to keep them from dropping
Unbolt axle at wheel hub, single 13mm bolt
Tap the axle out of the hub with a brass drift
Pull the c-clip off the other end of the axle inside the diff
Pull axles out, retain the spacer rings on the inside end, don't mix them up the spacer rings need to stay on their respective sides - note when removing the axles it helps to lift the diff up about as high as you can go
Pull diff side seals out with a seal puller
Press in new seals
Put spacer rings on the new axles on their respective sides
Push the axle in to the diff first, inserting the c-clip to keep it from moving out again, then work the opposite end in to the hub as far as possible by hand
Then use the bolt to pull it in the last bit of the way
Clean up the surfaces on the cover and body of the diff, then run a bead of RTV all the way around the cover. Follow the directions on the RTV about set up time, etc. The one I used said to install the cover right away (no skin-over time), but only finger tight, and wait 1 hour to torque it down. Then let it cure 24 hours before putting in any fluids.
Torque diff cover bolts, install mount to cover, then lift the diff up to bolt it to the mounts to the body of the car
Reinstall calipers
Check torque on all bolts

leathermang · #5 10-31-2014, 03:47 PM

Did you list a new driveshaft input seal ?

subman60 · #6 10-31-2014, 04:02 PM

Let me make sure I understand. I need an axle output and input seal? Also where is the best place to put jack stands while doing this job? Thanks for the info, greatly appreciated.

Mark

leathermang · #7 10-31-2014, 04:45 PM

Axles go the wheels...
the driveshaft goes into the front of the ...

Uh... nevermind.... when you said axle I was picturing a live axle.... meaning you would want to renew the place where the driveshaft enters it from the front...

uberwasser · #8 10-31-2014, 04:47 PM

If you're just replacing the axle, there is only one seal, and it's the "output" seal for the axle. That is the term used on Pelican's catalog anyway. I guess I just call it the axle seal.

By driveshaft input seal I assume he's referring to the seal around the pinion? But you won't be touching that.

For this job you can place your jack stands directly under the rear subframe bushings, underneath the big bolt that penetrates up through the bushing in to the chassis.

subman60 · #9 10-31-2014, 05:03 PM

Thank you everyone for the info. Now to order parts.

uberwasser · #10 10-31-2014, 05:08 PM

What axle are you considering? Before you buy one from your local parts store read up on people's experience with these aftermarket (generally made in China) axles.

I personally like to recommend CVJ refurb'd axles. I have two on my '85.

rscurtis · #11 10-31-2014, 08:52 PM

I'll second that, or one of the forum members, I think it's VStech. Why would you be replacing only one axle? You might as well do both while everything's apart.

subman60 · #12 10-31-2014, 09:34 PM

I was going to purchase a rebuilt unit from O'Reillys. I'm replacing it because a boot went bad and now the axle needs to be replaced. The answer to why only do the one side is 1) the other sides boots look ok and 2) lack of funds to do both right now. I bought this car about 3 years ago for my sons to drive and so far it has been driven on average 1200 miles per year. The axles from O'Reillys is only $120 what are they elsewhere?

uberwasser · #13 10-31-2014, 10:14 PM

I think vstech (forum member here) will rebuild one with a Genuine Mercedes axle for about that price. Maybe less? $100? I don't remember you'll have to send him a message.

CVJ does a great job too. With round trip shipping (you send yours back as a core) it would be probably $190 or so ($159 for the part). They use the Genuine Mercedes boots which are very robust.

Carpenterman · #14 10-31-2014, 11:02 PM

I'll chime in on those CVJ axles. I installed two this very afternoon.

When you call them you get real knowledgeable people. It took them a couple of days to build them as they didn't have any in inventory. Altogether, it took seven days from order to delivery.

They were very well packed in their boxes. Comes with useable, if brief, instructions. The boots are very robust and the fit and finish was excellent. The only difficulty I had was fitting the splined ends because the axle was very stiff. I also had to use varied length bolts to draw the axle into the hub as the fit was close.

Three year guarantee.

I only got two-and-a-half years and 25k miles out of the Chinese axles previously installed. The boots don't like the flexion that occurs when the suspension is in the air. I watched them tear as I rotated the axle. Didn't take them long to vibrate and make noise once the grease came out.

They really are junk. Those $100 axles were a good lesson on false economy.

And I hate the smell of gear oil, so I hope this is the last set I'll ever need.

rscurtis · #15 11-01-2014, 09:57 AM

I had them reboot my original axles (which were still in good shape), and then I switched them left to right to wear the other side of the joints. Don't waste your time and money on the Chinese axles unless you like doing the job again. If the other axle isn't leaking yet, wait a while, it will be soon.