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  #16  
Old 11-06-2014, 11:00 AM
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Tried a good temp controller and it did not make any difference. Will be sending push button unit to JD to see if he can do anything with it. I did find a good bit of oil in push button unit where it looks like the oil line going to instrument cluster has been leaking, got into harness to push button unit and put oil to it.

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  #17  
Old 11-07-2014, 11:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Tried a good temp controller and it did not make any difference. Will be sending push button unit to JD to see if he can do anything with it. I did find a good bit of oil in push button unit where it looks like the oil line going to instrument cluster has been leaking, got into harness to push button unit and put oil to it.
FSM 83-600 has comprehensive step by step diagnostics on troubleshooting ACC problems. It may give you a headache and eye problems afterwards though.

Edit: Have you put your hands on the in/out hoses of the monovalve to see what they feel like? That will tell a lot as well as putting a light bulb (careful! elec short warning) across the monovalve and observe it while you drive.
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Last edited by funola; 11-07-2014 at 11:30 AM.
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2014, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by jaybutter View Post
........The original mono valve has a check valve built in for one way flow and my new valve does not. Does anyone know if I will have trouble because of the missing check valve?
I asked this same question a while ago but no one knew the answer. I found the answer in FSM 83-600 after I shorted the monovalve by accident/ blew a PBU trace and had to troubleshoot.

The monovalves's check valve's function is to keep the heater core from filling with hot coolant when the engine is shut off.
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2014, 07:11 PM
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Found the wiring harness connector at the pushbutton unit full of oil. Shipped pbu to JD today for refurbishment. Will try to resolve oil issue and clean harness up.
Attached Thumbnails
83 300D, no heat at highway speed-oil-wiring-harness.jpg  
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  #20  
Old 11-09-2014, 01:49 AM
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Have the same issue with my 85 right now. Replaced the thermostat a couple years ago because the car always running too low of temp. That fixed that. But on interstate I have little heat and I noticed my cars running half the temp it should, (has to be below 40F) to see this happen... But as soon as I slow down, or take an exit, it's blasting heat out.

BTW, how did oil get into that harness? The only oil I know of coming into the cab is from the oil pressure sensor and thats not even close?
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  #21  
Old 11-09-2014, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
The only oil I know of coming into the cab is from the oil pressure sensor and thats not even close?
Not as much as being close as to being above. From my initial observation (will pull instrument cluster this afternoon) the harness is running underneath the steering column below the area of the instrument cluster where oil may be tracking down to the harness.
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  #22  
Old 11-09-2014, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
Replaced the monovalve which at least got some heat but now the only time it blows hot is when you are sitting. Quits blowing hot air after you get up to speed. Engine coolant level looks good. Don't have any history on maintenance but it is running green coolant. May try to flush heater core out. Any thoughts/ideas are appreciated.
I have dealt with this issue in the past. I have heard a theory about new monovalve inserts having weak springs that do not allow it to open against the fast coolant flow at highway speeds.

I forget... is there a way to run without the monovalve insert in place? Or a way to prop it open? Maybe tearing the rubber off an old one and running it as a test?
Just some ideas....
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  #23  
Old 11-09-2014, 03:18 PM
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I had an issue where the traces on the climate control circuit board actually burnt out from high current, of course in the dead of winter. So in a pinch what I ended up doing was removing the monovalve and instead installing an aux pump I found off something in the junkyard; as well as wiring the blower motor to a potentiometer (power coming from the fuse box & fused) installed on the dash. Worked fantastic since I was slightly overvolting the blower causing it to blow harder.
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  #24  
Old 11-12-2014, 10:25 PM
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Figured I would update this thread.

I received Jim's oily push button unit. There was no electrical damage from the oil. Just messy. I did find a few cold solder joints here and there as I've come to expect on these units.

Here is a photo album of the work. I am going to let it sit under my fans for the night just to be sure all of the cleaning agents/alcohol is dry.

https://imgur.com/a/kfVcv
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82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
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  #25  
Old 11-12-2014, 10:55 PM
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I should have updated my part of this thread too. I found where the oil line to the oil pressure gauge had leaked int he past. It has been fixed but there are still oil stains on the carpet to the right of the drivers foot area.
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  #26  
Old 11-12-2014, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaybutter View Post
Here are some photos of the brass solenoid valve that I installed in place of my mono valve. For the top connection I used a street elbow and a thread to hose barb adapter and on the bottom just an adapter. I used tie wraps to hold the valve up wrapped around the original valve mount which is a little rigged. The first photo is from the ebay listing for the valve from a seller named "duda diesel" (I'm not kidding). Seems like a fine company! Valve is brass body, buna-n rubber, 1/2", 12VDC, and normally open.
great alternative!!!
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  #27  
Old 11-13-2014, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckleballerr View Post
Ias well as wiring the blower motor to a potentiometer (power coming from the fuse box & fused) installed on the dash. Worked fantastic since I was slightly overvolting the blower causing it to blow harder.
This worked without having a regulator for the blower motor?
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  #28  
Old 11-13-2014, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
This worked without having a regulator for the blower motor?
Either it was a beefy pot or (assuming early ACC) there is a blower motor control unit that I believe takes in a 0-x V signal and switches through some resistors (using its relays) under the brake booster.
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #29  
Old 11-15-2014, 02:57 AM
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Regarding the monovalve insert: As one poster stated the MTC brand spring is too weak to overcome the water pressure at road speed. Probably because the MTC unit uses a coarser screen than the factory unit. Only difference I can see. Springs feel the same.

So I put a ~3/4 inch long compression spring under the rubber valve down inside the valve body, which effectively gives the spring inside the insert more power. Now the MTC unit works at road speed. Without the extra spring -- no heat any time. I hope the spring doesn't escape and find its way to the water pump. I probably should have locwired it to something.
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  #30  
Old 11-15-2014, 07:24 AM
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After doing some more reading I've about decided to order a complete monovalve assy from the dealer.

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