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#16
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One thing to keep in mind is you want to stay away from spraying any type of petroleum based product in a lock. Brake cleaner can be an exception since it disapates so easily. Always use an aersol graphite product on locks. Do you know if you vacuum pump has ever gotten wet. The one in my '83 SD had to been using a snorkel when I first bought her. The interesting thing is how MB used a feature basically 10 years ahead of most others in that the driver's door not locking without the key with the car off.
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1983 300SD 1988 420SEL |
#17
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All Diesel Fleet 1985 R107 300SLD TURBODIESEL 2005 E320 CDI (daily) LOTS of parts for sale! EGR block kit http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/355250-sale-egr-delete-block-off-plate-kit.html 1985 CA emissions 617 owners- You Need This! Sanden style A/C Compressor Mounting Kit for your 616/ 617 For Sale + Install Inst. Sanden Instalation Guide (post 11): http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/367883-sanden-retrofit-installation-guide.html |
#18
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The understanding I have of the early W126 trunk lock is that if you use the key in the position I mentioned before, the trunk will open regardless of the vacuum system's position. Assuming the 84 is the same mechanical lock with an added solenoid-actuated lock with a separate latch, it seems to me that if you can actuate the solenoid, the trunk should open with a master key. Solenoids usually operate with 12v, so find where the solenoid gets its 12v and see what you get when voltage is applied.
To answer the OP's earlier question about being able to apply vacuum or pressure to the vac lines under the carpet to open the trunk lock: yes, I have done that before. I have not run into the alarm system on later models, though. On early model W126s, I have had to drill a small hole next to the lock to push the trunk latch to open the trunk. I only have to do that when I don't have any keys to the car - IE: junk yard.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#19
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#20
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Thank you for the tip regarding the alarm. I have messed with it for an hour today with no luck. Ive tried all sorts of combinations of starting with a door locked or unlocked. engine running or off. The locks are back to not unlocking other than a momentarily whir that can be heard in the trunk. The alarm will still start clicking on some sequences. Im still not sure what triggers the alarm. Ill send you a pm to see if I am doing your recommended technique correctly. UPDATE 1:40pm A few more cycles of brake cleaner and then graphite powder in the trunk lock and I was able to turn it horizontal. Yeah! the trunk is open. When I leave the trunk open and key lock and unlock the driver door the latch inside the trunk seems to be locking and unlocking appropriately. Im not sure where I go from here. I don't think I dare close the trunk. ha. Now that it is open what can be done to prevent future problems? Disassemble the lock and give it a tune up somehow?
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84 300SD 274K 38K miles on flatplate heat exchanger and various diesel/veg blends. prior to that 4K miles on unheated veggie blends with kero and DinoD. Last edited by angst; 11-05-2014 at 01:44 PM. |
#21
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A locksmith once told me to not use graphite in any lock. Most folks do this routinely, the graphite builds up and seizes the lock.
Use the spray lubricant of your choice.
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83 SD 84 CD |
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