Timing Chain - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #16 11-09-2014, 03:12 AM

So far I've always "just taken the crank out" and gotten the dealer to join my chain into a continuous length!!!!!

(And before the fit hits the shan this isn't a serious suggestion with the engine still in the car - for that job I'd buy or rent the special tool)

cbum33 · #17 11-10-2014, 01:06 PM

Well chain was rolled in successfully. The marks on the cam tower are aligned along with the TDC indication. I ordered the short hose from thermostat housing and the gasket but hose was wrong so just waiting for new hose and I will be ready to fire it up. I was a little nervous about the crimps but I ended up using the HF tool and used two hammers and punch to make sure they were good.
I had wondered about using a rivet gun and bucking bar like someone showed in the post earlier. But pretty sure it is good to go. Thanks again for all the help.

leathermang · #18 11-10-2014, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbum33

Well chain was rolled in successfully. The marks on the cam tower are aligned along with the TDC indication. I ordered the short hose from thermostat housing and the gasket but hose was wrong so just waiting for new hose and I will be ready to fire it up. I was a little nervous about the crimps but I ended up using the HF tool and used two hammers and punch to make sure they were good.
I had wondered about using a rivet gun and bucking bar like someone showed in the post earlier. But pretty sure it is good to go. Thanks again for all the help.

As mentioned several times...... the really tight fit of the pins to the chain side rails,,,, the lack of side pressure in a double roller chain.... etc.... means that very little peening of the top is needed to keep it in place...
So I am sure you are ' good to go '.....

cbum33 · #19 11-11-2014, 10:05 PM

Got is all put back together and drove it. Ran just fine. Started easier and seems to maybe run little smoother.

Still getting some white smoke on start up till the car is warmed up and there is still smoke from the oil filler cap. I did change all the valve stem seals and don't think that helped at all. (Maybe I messed one up or something). Plan on doing a leak down check and go from there. The cap dances a little but doesn't blow off so I have read not to be to concerned about it. Just wanna check it see where its at. I enjoy working on the old girl and trying to make her run better.

The only thing I did notice on the drive was a slight whine that is RPM related. Not sure if it was there before or not. Never noticed it but not often that I drive with radio off and no heat blowing or window up. Only hear it when its above around 1200 RPM. Just wondered if anyone had any ideas on that.

leathermang · #20 11-11-2014, 10:08 PM

Turn the radio back on and enjoy your car running nicely...

cbum33 · #21 08-24-2015, 10:00 PM

So I am about 15,000 miles after my timing chain replacement and when I went and adjusted the valves for the second time since changing the chain I went and ahead and checked the chain stretch cause I was curious where it was at. It is back at about 6 degrees off now. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I changed the tensioner spring when I changed the chain. Is there a good way to determine if maybe a guide is worn or should I consider installing a offset key. Just a note when I put it all back together after running a new chain in it was maybe 1 degree off or just a little less. Any input would be appreciated.

leathermang · #22 08-24-2015, 10:15 PM

Have you read the chain thread in my signature ?
Start there... great information.

AND it is very important... According to the FSM .... to keep tension on the old chain as you attach it to the new one and roll it in..
Very important.... otherwise you risk loosing a tooth of lineup on the injector pump.

Stretch · #23 08-25-2015, 03:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cbum33

So I am about 15,000 miles after my timing chain replacement and when I went and adjusted the valves for the second time since changing the chain I went and ahead and checked the chain stretch cause I was curious where it was at. It is back at about 6 degrees off now. Is there anything else I should be looking at? I changed the tensioner spring when I changed the chain. Is there a good way to determine if maybe a guide is worn or should I consider installing a offset key. Just a note when I put it all back together after running a new chain in it was maybe 1 degree off or just a little less. Any input would be appreciated.

Sounds like you're not doing the "2mm lift" test as per the FSM

Need a link?

leathermang · #24 08-25-2015, 08:54 AM

Stretch , Are one of the chain reference links in my signature the one you would refer to?

Stretch · #25 08-25-2015, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Stretch , Are one of the chain reference links in my signature the one you would refer to?

Because the FSM is available for (free and legal) download I was thinking it was worth a butchers!

leathermang · #26 08-25-2015, 11:06 AM

Idiom = something an Englishman living in Holland would say which does not translate literally to American.... " worth a butchers " ?

Ceristimo · #27 08-25-2015, 01:33 PM

Of course, one could argue that "American" as a language does not exist. It's just merely butchered English!
And that coming from a Dutchy living in the USA..

leathermang · #28 08-25-2015, 02:32 PM

One could argue that ...and they would be wrong...and we would put them into the boot and dump them somewhere.

BillGrissom · #29 08-25-2015, 02:54 PM

Just to help other readers. I don't see where the original question was answered directly. The pin on the crank damper is not at TDC, so ignore it. The TDC mark is the one in photo #2, exactly between the two "10" marks. I recall it is actually a "T" stamp. One thread here has photos of a shiny damper that makes it clear.

When I fooled with my timing chain a few months ago, I found that the "dial indicator valve drop" method and "timing marks" method gave very comparable values for timing chain stretch. But, you must be very careful to align the marks on the camshaft for a valid reading, and repeat to see how much variance that method has.

I installed an "2 deg" offset key to make my cam timing perfect. Note that results in a 4 deg shift at the crankshaft. Then, re-measure to verify that you offset in the correct direction (diagrams here if you search). Consider changing the upper chain guide at the same time, since the cam sprocket must come off for that.

leathermang · #30 08-25-2015, 03:47 PM

YOU CAN NOT GET A LEGIT READING FROM THE CAM MARKS .. THE FSM SAYS THAT SPECIFICALLY. IT SAYS THOSE MARKS ARE ONLY FOR ASSEMBLING THE ENGINE AND ONLY THEN TO GET THE CAM IN THE CORRECT ' QUARTER'.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by BillGrissom

Just to help other readers. I don't see where the original question was answered directly. The pin on the crank damper is not at TDC, so ignore it. The TDC mark is the one in photo #2, exactly between the two "10" marks. I recall it is actually a "T" stamp. One thread here has photos of a shiny damper that makes it clear.

When I fooled with my timing chain a few months ago, I found that the "dial indicator valve drop" method and "timing marks" method gave very comparable values for timing chain stretch. But, you must be very careful to align the marks on the camshaft for a valid reading, and repeat to see how much variance that method has.

I installed an "2 deg" offset key to make my cam timing perfect. Note that results in a 4 deg shift at the crankshaft. Then, re-measure to verify that you offset in the correct direction (diagrams here if you search). Consider changing the upper chain guide at the same time, since the cam sprocket must come off for that.