W123 half axles - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Shortsguy1 · #76 05-11-2015, 07:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

... silly sausage of the second...

Stretch-
If you ever feel the need to change your screen-name again, I think you may have already identified a leading candidate.

Stretch · #77 05-11-2015, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

Stretch-
If you ever feel the need to change your screen-name again, I think you may have already identified a leading candidate.

Nah I think I'd go for Shortsguy2 and mix it up a bit!

Mbzan · #78 05-11-2015, 01:54 PM

I have pdf's attached of what ive done so far in autocad. There is one sheet missing which a drawing of the split rings which slot into part#2.

Ive done this drawing based on measurements that ive taken using micrometer and pictures in the FSM.
In the FSM, it shows an additional giant hex piece attached to the tool, I'm guessing this is for keeping the tool steady while you do the crimping?
Is it really necessary, I don't really think so, but not sure.

I'm still not sure whether you need a groove or not on part#1.

This is only the first revision, so obviously its open to criticism.

Regards,

Mbzan · #79 05-11-2015, 02:11 PM

Oops after looking at stretch's post noticed a design flaw, can't get Part#2 off the axle after u crimp it.

Ill try to think of a different way of doing it...
Ideally the less material the better.

The only easy thing i can think of is to split part #2 into two pieces, and have a slot or hole top and bottom where you can attach bolts.
Meaning these bolts would be mounted across.
However, i think this means i need to make the part a little thicker?

Maybe this design would also work with plywood, however the parts that make contact with the bead would be made out of sheet metal? Just a thought.

Regards,

Stretch · #80 05-11-2015, 03:30 PM

{Chuckle}

Mbzan · #81 05-11-2015, 05:14 PM

So I've made some changes, and i THINK this should work..

Comments?

Stretch · #82 05-12-2015, 07:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mbzan

So I've made some changes, and i THINK this should work..

Comments?

I can see where you are coming from (I think) but I don't think your design will work

If you are trying to crimp the ends all the way round on themselves you will find that your tool will get stuck in the crimp. (Alternatively the crimp will get stuck in the tool)

I think you just need to make a semi-circle shape as (kind of shown) in this picture =>

Specifications-wise I think an inch thick plate of steel should most certainly kick the living **** out of those pesky cans - but damn drop that on your toe and you'll remember it! Still I'm all for the early Victorian heavy is good engineering solutions.

Mbzan · #83 05-12-2015, 09:06 AM

Thanks for the reply Stretch,

I've taken that design from the actual tool itself.
Pay close attention to the picture I've attached. The design is somewhat different from mine because they use "split rings". These split rings seat into the main stock.

The main stock seems like its one solid piece, so how is it removed after the fact? it may be that it only provides partial support to the split rings.

Instead i decided to use my design for simplicity sake. So I take your point, i can definitely make that groove bevelled (or half moon shaped), which will make it easier to remove.

Also, good idea if I end up making and using this tool, i will put my steel toe boots on.

Stretch · #84 05-12-2015, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mbzan

Thanks for the reply Stretch,

I've taken taken that design from the actual tool itself.
Pay close attention to the picture i've attached. The design is somewhat different from mine because they use "split rings". These split rings seat into the main stock.

The main stock seems like its one solid piece, so how is it removed after the fact? it may be that it only provides partial support to the split rings.

Instead i decided to use my design for simplicity sake. So I take your point, i can definitely make that groove bevelled (or half moon shaped), which will make it easier to remove.

Also, good idea if I end up making and using this tool, i will put my steel toe boots on.

I'll have a look at the German version of the FSM I've got to see a clearer picture! (The originals are much better)

The thing about that ring (which I admit is more or less visible) is that it goes on the back part of the crimp. The larger part of the can comes with a 90 degree lip over which the smaller cup shaped / (more) conical shaped part of the can is meant to be formed. The part of the tool that is shown in the FSM that matters is not visible! It is the other side that will be forming the crimp!

I'll see if I can find a picture of the other side.

Mbzan · #85 05-12-2015, 12:52 PM

Ok, so third revison is attached.

Stretch · #86 05-12-2015, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mbzan

Ok, so third revison is attached.

Could work - I still don't quite understand why that groove is in the "split" side of the device...

...some clearer pictures have already "been interneted" here =>

CV boot replacement - Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mbzan · #87 05-12-2015, 03:19 PM

I think the only logical hypothesis is that the "crimping" is done on both sides?
I'm not sure, it does seem odd. In any case, I can make the bevel bigger on the crimping side and just have it flat surface at the "non-crimping" end.

Thanks again for your comments,

Mbzan · #88 05-12-2015, 04:17 PM

After looking very closely at that photo it seems like there is a kink in the rings (there are actually two grooves), that leads me to believe the purpose is to pinch the metal right underneath the part where it starts getting round.

Stretch · #89 05-13-2015, 04:29 AM

I don't want to pee on bonfires (or anything like that) but I get the impression that perhaps you haven't seen the cans when they are new (unformed and fresh out of the box)

Most of the shaping process of the crimp happens on one side of one can half. All of the crimp shaping / forming happens on the domed can.

I've made a not so great drawing to demonstrate what I think you might not understand (I should have just drawn it and scanned it in but anyway I arsed about with a drawing package instead)

I hope this helps (and does not offend)

Mbzan · #90 05-13-2015, 10:12 AM

Don't worry no offence taken, I've had both unfinished and finished product the whole time.

Basically just a poor choice of words on my part.

If you look at the non-crimped cans, the groove on the split rings does not make sense. However, when you look at the finished product you will notice that directly underneath the "bead" (on the side with no crimping) its slightly recessed.
That may explain the kink on the split rings from the FSM.
I think the goal is to pinch the metal underneath the bead to make a better seal. You're pinching metal on one side and crimping on the other.

In any case, i think this should work.
I'm going to double check measurements, and try to get this made at a machine shop. I'm hoping it will be under 500$... maybe wishful thinking.

Thanks again for your comments,