It is pretty clear from My thread that I also had trouble with the Dorman Pneumatic Tool. However, I also missed a Detail. The tiny pic on the Instructions showed the Boot Folded over itself and then slid on to the Pneumic Tool. Evidently once the boot is spread you yave something to grab onto to pull the Boot. Someday I am going to get some more axles and get the dam tool to work like it is supposed to.

Using the Cone by inself was not too bad but it took a lot of strength and if I did not have Vice as I could not have done it.

I think that the the Dorman pneumatic Tool is not made for the OD of the Cans.

Also I think there is a learning curve. I reminds me of learning to Drip Time.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Thanks for the trade secret.

Dorman also has a size larger Boot that fits the 3001 applications. Someone said don't trim the excess off till they are mounted on the axle.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Agreed. Do not trim the rubber until it's on the axle.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

If anyone has worked with both the flexx3000 boots and the dorman boots, would you have an opinion on quality of the boots? That is are both the same thickness and make-up, so to speak? As of this time I still don't have a clue what the manufacture is on my original boots. However, looking at them underneath the car, they do appear to me to be very heavy made boots! Inside the records on the car it does not show the boots to ever have been replaced or the axles. What is questionable to me is the right side boots are quite cracked, but the left side boots are not cracked whatsoever!! Would this be a normal occurrance??

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Rebe

There is a single thread somewhere from over 5 Years ago that ask the question about the one side cracking and the other not. I don't remember the Details.
I don't recall that there was an answer.

I do know that on Differentials that are not limited slip differentials one side gets more torque then the other but have no idea which side or if that explains the issue.

It simply could be that not all parts are made by the same Factory and one Axle came from a different maker then the other.

The Stock Boots have thicker and less flexiable Rubber but I don't know if that makes them better. In order to stretch over the Axle cans both the Astoria and Dorman Boots have to be be made of a material that is pretty tough. But, I don't know if that means they will last longer or not.

Since GKN is the supplier of OEM Axles there is some chance the Boots were made by them but no one really knows who the supplier was back in the 1980s.

When I got My 1984 300D it had 198K miles on it and the Boots were cracking but not leaking in 2007. So that was 23 Years of use if they were the original Axles. Also the Car apprenly spent a lot of time in Missouri meaning it was exposed to some Winter and possibly whatever the put on the Roads back there. I also had the underside rusted.

Part of the issue with the original Boots lasting that long is that few People have had their re-booted Axles on the Car for 20 Plus Years to know how long the Dorman or Astoria Boots will last in normal Use.

I looked up some threads from 2008 where some used the Dorman Boots thinking that I could PM them and see how their Boots are doing but the 2 I found apparenly are not active any more.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Possibly the exhaust side boot cracking?

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I think that there is no perfect answer or solution. Stock Boots even if you could locate the actual OE Maker = a lot of work. Non-stock Boots = not as much trouble to install but have un-proven longivity and you might or might not rip a Boot during installation.

GKN Loebro CV Boot Kit W0133-1626142 GKN Loebro CV Boot Kit
Mercedes Part Number: 1263500237 / A1263500237 / 126-350-02-37 (Any part numbers I post need to be rechecked to be sure they are for your Vehicle.)

1263500237 GKN Loebro OEM - CV Joint Boot Kit; Rear Outer; Boot and Flange; Major Kit

It looks like the Kit with new Cans is $30-$40something each plus shipping.

You can get the Boots Seperatly if you have an Annular Axle but if you have a Homokinetic axle you will need to remove one of the Cans to get the axle Apart.

Also they show inner and outer Kits. On the W-123 I think the Inner and Outer Boots are the same on the Homokinetic Axles but one of the Cans is slighly shorter.

If one of Our Members is correct Loebro is also the origianl maker of the Drive Shaft U-joint.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I had called an autozone parts store awhile back, and they had some of the dorman boots. I was in the area going by so I stopped to look at them. On inspecting them I thought that they were very light rubber. I don't think they would hold up long at all IMO. They are nothing compared to the existing boots on my vehicle. The GKN Loebro kits look quality oem boots. My question on removing the cans to use these kind of boot kits is how can you get the cans crimped together...not having that special M-B tool? You can get the Mercedes Benz outer kits, as well as the inners, but they are much more in price.

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Rebe

Does anyone actually have a beading tool for sealing the can?
If someone has it can they take measurements and make a simple sketch, and I can get it made at a machine shop. I know its going to be expensive but, it will probably be cheaper than buying it ($3500).
If it actually works perhaps I can lend it to others who need it.
I know it sounds crazy, but its worth a shot.
Regards,

I was busy trying to make my own version - I'll get round to it some time or other...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

That will be your nemesis. Take the axles off, send them to CVJ and get them rebooted properly. Reverse them on installation and they'll last another 30 years.

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'83 300D, 126K miles.

I forgot I said I'd post up what I was trying to achieve.

The plan was simple - and I tried to execute it in wood. Wood (plywood) is too soft which isn't a great shock...

The idea was to have a solid plate with one half of the desired shape of the crimp (half circle) with holes in it. Then a mirror image of the solid plate cut in two like this would sit on top =>





The plan was - bolt the buggers together after a minimal amount of "starting the bend off" bashing and hey presto - hero of the hour - master of the minute => as it turned out it was silly sausage of the second...

Attached Thumbnails

   

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

...I just didn't want to make something too complicated or expensive.

I have tried with modifying pliers and all that jazz but the force needed to crimp is just a bit beyond a mole grip!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'm going to call my mechanic tomorrow and see if he has the tool, if so ill take measurements.

If that doesn't happen, ill make a cad drawing of what the tool could look like? and maybe you folks can tell me if its a stupid or not.

Go for it.

My experience has taught me that support is needed for the outer part of the axle can - if it drops down during the crimping process not only do you stand a chance of messing up the crimp but often the balls fall out of the spider...

...that really makes you want to go and kick something...

...the top part of the crimping mechanism needs to be split to go around the axle shaft - and most importantly come off it!

The force required to crimp the (Febi?) cans I have is actually quite a lot. I reckon you'd need at least four good G clamps with inch width screw threads to make a dent in the crimps (so to speak)...

...support for the axle and the the other end with the other can on it (as it will be for the second can fix) is also needed - not only can or will the other end of the axle hurt you as it smacks you in the head but it also tends to pull the balls out of spider...

...(which as has been said before) really makes you want to go and kick something...

...perhaps a complicated horizontal support is needed after all?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!