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W123 half axles
I was reading threads from time to time on the axles. What I didn't quite get was why you couldn't put oil back into them after replacing the boots? Seemed all was packing back with grease.
The other thing is how critical is it to be concerned if the boots are cracked or not? The original boots seem to be pretty heavy rubber material. If they start leaking, would you have like a good distance before they might gall? Just wanting to find out some basic info on them.
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Rebe |
#2
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You had better use oil...
if you put grease.... the centrifugal force and stickiness will put it on the inside of the boot... and not be available to lubricate the joints... They came from the factory with oil.....
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#3
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I think the idea is that if you get a leak it won't just immediately fail and dump all of the oil. AFIK, all of the rebuilt and aftermarket ones use grease and not oil.
For most of the ones I have seen, the cracking appears to get worse and worse for a while. However, that could all go out the window on a long road-trip. I've heard some people are able to drive on them with some noise at slower speeds after they have failed. I personally wouldn't risk it... Mine are in pretty good shape but I'm planning to reboot towards the end of next year just in case. I figure if I don't need it now, I will in a few years or more... Dkr. |
#4
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Except that Mercedes now ships OEM new axles with grease. And re-builders like CVJ use grease. Works OK.
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1979 300D 040 Black on Black - 1985 300D Maaco job (sadly sprayed over 199 Black Pearl Metallic) on Palamino http://i.imgur.com/LslW733.jpg The Baja Arizona Oil Burners Send a message if you'd like to join the fun Left to Right - UberWasser, Iridium, Stuttgart-->Seattle,, mannys9130 Visit the W123 page on iFixit for over 70 helpful DIY guides! |
#5
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Quote:
The correct axle grease is very sticky stuff and is made for the purpose
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#6
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However, cracking is a "sign" - they are nearly dead! The biggest problem I see with filling axles with grease after they have been filled with oil is that unless they are the annular type that can be dismantled (well one side can) there is a possibility that grease and oil get mixed together... ...we then quickly come into the territory of whether solvents should be used to clean out the axles before putting grease in them. That I also find to be a bit dodgy. The best way to tackle the problem of rebooting the canned axle ends is to follow the FSM - cut the can and then dismantle and reassemble the whole end. This goes well until you get to the stage where you have to crimp the ends of the new axle cans together => that is the trickiest and most frustrating job I have ever done on a W123.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#7
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So we can buy new half shafts for our cars from MB ?
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#8
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Yep I'm pretty sure they are still available. Part number is 1233500410 (I think - so check this if you are seriously going to use this number).
Last time I looked they were something like 3000 euros a pop at the dealer. It was a serious incentive to mess about with rubber boots and grease! I've seen original Mercedes axles advertised on ebay from about 800 euros a pop though.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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I agree that rebuilding them yourself is a huge pain. There is a guy on eBay who reboots good used axles. I have not bought from so I count vouch for but... I would probably buy from him before I attempted the rebuild again. Here's a link [URL="http://http://www.ebay.com/itm/371008770796"]
I read somewhere that the rebuilds have been ground down and do not have the longevity of the original mb joints. I also read that if one is just starting to go you can reboot and move it to the other side of the car so that wear occurs in a new area. These are just things I picked up on some forum somewhere so take it with a grain of salt. There is also an aftermarket boot that is stretchy enough that you do not have to cut off the cans. I think they are called Astoria and there is a special tool that stretches them out so they can fit over the cans. |
#10
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I've sold hundreds of them, zero complaints. I will not reboot a dry or leaked axle, only OE, and only undamaged boots. I clean the rust off the cans, and shaft, and repaint, then install astoria FLEXX boots with your choice of oil, or axle grease. I also rent out the FLEXX air gun, to reboot your own if you choose.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#11
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The axles can they be worn out, and still not have leaked out any oil? Can CVJ rebuild them if the axles are bad, as well as, replace the boots?
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Rebe |
#12
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I read the link to the ad you posted, and that is the brand of boot they use.
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#13
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Quote:
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The cheapest new axles are famed for not being very good. Some people have said they managed to go as far as a mile before something went wrong! Others have said replacements have lasted as long as a few years. Most people say relatively good things about GKN axles - though because they come as the annular type there have been reports of the bolts (that hold the axle to the flange that gets fitted to the differential side gears) coming undone. The solution is to undo the bolts and add thread locker (which should have been done in the first place).
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#14
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Would someone explain how the physics of the situation which I described is wrong ?
It seems so simple ...and coincides with the way the axles came originally from the factory..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#15
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Quote:
I also read they they will use Oil instead of Grease but you need to tell them what you want.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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