Help!!! W210 won't start after fuel lines changed
 

I just changed all of the fuel lines on my 1996 E300 and now it won't start. It was actually running perfectly for about 10 mins and then just shut off when I was reinstalling the rear seat. Is there a possible fuel shutoff in the trunk like in my ford's over the years?
When I turn the key to try to prime the engine now, I don't see any fuel coming in from the feed line from the tank. I can't think of anything else.

Couple things, you will need to get all the air out of the new fuel lines and make sure that there are no leaks. Loosen the fuel lines at the injectors till you get fuel out and then snug em back down. Until you get fuel at the injectors it is not going to start. Expect to run the battery down at least one time while priming.

The clips on the fuel supply hoses are counter intuitive.
The white clip has to be in the center of its travel to lock in the hose.
If the clip is pushed all the way that means it is unlocked.
You probably have trapped air due to a loose hose.

You will need to loosen the injector nuts to release the trapped air on the high pressure side.

When I did my delivery valves, it took about 15-20 attempts to get the engine restarted, so if you changed out all of the fuel lines, you may have created an air bubble you have to work out of the lines.

OK.. Thank you all. I'll try cracking (please not literally this time) the injectors and see if that helps. Shouldn't I at least be able to the fuel pumping in from the line from the gas tank? I'm not seeing anything from it. I wish this was like my w123 and w126. I've mastered those over the years.

My next step would be to prime the fuel system by inserting perhaps a boat bulb fuel primer about $4.00 or so just ahead of the perefilter and pump away. Maybe also remove your return line and catch the fuel and look for baubles. Once primed reconnect the tank return line remove the pump bulb and reconnect the supply line maybe even change the prefilter? Now only the injector lines need to cllear of air. Loosen the hard lines at the injectors and crank until you see diesel come out then retighten. Now crank away it should go after awhile.

Will do... Great idea

Going out of my mind. I don't even get any fuel from the feed line from the tank when cranking. I can suck it out manually by sucking the fuel out but nothing when cranking.

Is the shutoff electric as well?

All fixed... Apparently the new prefilter I got from pelican parts doesn't come with a gasket on it. Works fine now.

Did you get leaks when you pressurized the system with your primer pump? Or how did you determine it was the lack of a gasket?

A friend of mine figured it out as we were going over everything again. I had the prefilter out trying to suck the fluid out and he looked and said isn't there supposed to be a gasket here? Luckily I didn't throw out the old one yet and saw the new one was missing it.

Yep the mini coffee filter does not come with an o-ring in the package, it is a separate part. Been bit by that one myself.

I would go get a new one and change it out, the old one will not seal properly and you will get air in the system. Not enough to make it fail but it will clatter like crazy between 1000-1500/min if you have a small air leak. BTDT on that too.

Bonus: while you are at the dealer get the o-ring that goes behind the fuel shutoff (the black rectangle with 3 hoses going to it on the side of the IP). Everyone forgets about that o-ring and that will give you air in the system problems too. You don't need to remove the manifold to change it, just remove the washer fluid tank and go in from the side.

Later Models don't have a Hand Primer.
The Fuel Pressure Relief/Overflow Valve on them is supposed to have a Air bleed to let the Air out.
However, that does not work well and cranking to bleed the System without loosening the Injector Nuts can be a Battery killing and Starter overheating incident.

Help!!! W210 won't start after fuel lines changed
 

I've never successfully bleeded a system without a full new battery. I have a set of jumper cables made from welding leads, and hook up with another running car. Or drag it with a tractor or truck while it gear and force it through.

One trick I started doing when lost in air leaks is replace fuel lines with clear tubing. A brewery supply store sells the right hose (PCV or PVC?) that will work. You can order it from summit or a racing spot, but it's the same thing for more money. It's odd how when there is a clog, it will pull air through anything at full load.

We have a new holland tractor with banjo fittings before the filter. I replaced them with a nipple type and a filter housing with larger ports. I also kept the clear lines on permanent as it is cursed by the devil with fuel problems.

When I originally had a problem I dropped the tank. I found a top to a 5 gallon gas can, a lot of dirt and sticks, and a watch. Yes, like one off someone wrist after they tried to retrieve the gas can top. Lol.


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