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Guest987 11-13-2014 10:05 AM

4 speed transmission removal
 
I wanted to check on the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder. Can the slave cylinder be removed with the line intact removing the transmission. I was thinking that way maybe no clutch bleeding would have to be done? If you open the line up you will need some sort of a cap unknown size to keep the fluid from draining out.

Dan Stokes 11-13-2014 11:23 AM

My trans is from a 240D. You might want to look at my build thread to see how that stuff all fits together (it'll be back a few pages). And yes, you should be able to simply unbolt the slave from the outside with the line hooked up - no trans removal needed. The trans should slide right out with the slave pulled to the driver's side. There is a solid line out of the slave but then about a foot of flex line between that hard line and hard the line from the clutch master.

Examine the flex line for cracks. It's probably old and may need to be replaced anyway so you might get stuck bleeding the system anyhow.

I'd recommend making something to keep the slave actuator rod (from the slave to the clutch fork) in place so the slave can't come apart as it sits without a load on it. Something like a hose clamp around the slave and actuator rod, that kind of thing.

IIRC, mine had 12mm headed bolts (8mm thread) holding the slave in place. I have no clue if someone replaced the original bolts or if they came that way. No big deal but kind of a surprise.

Dan

charmalu 11-13-2014 11:26 AM

AHWWWW comon break it loose and become a frustrated member of the elite Clutch Flushers Club. :D

I suppose the Slave can be taken off and tied off to the side out of the way w/o breaking the line loose. I tried it that way one time and there is not much to tie it to. You may have to loosen the Bleeder Screw when you reinstall the slave. The Rod will come out some when it is removed and will push back in on reinstall. This gave me a problem as the fluid has to be compressed back in. I figured at the time just to use the 2 13mm Bolts to push the Rod back in as I tightened it on. I think the rod got cocked to one side against the throw out bearing fork. the dang thing would not work properly. Finally broke the line loose and put it together, and fought the Bleeding.


Charlie

Lucas 11-13-2014 11:33 AM

You guys might know this already, as I read it in the FSM, but you can hook a tube from your right front brake caliper breather to the bleeder on your slave, and pump your brakes to force the air out the top. I was highly impressed.

Granted on my 114 220D they share a reservoir, but I'm gonna do that on anything now. My mom gets tired of pumping for me when I bleed stuff.


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Winston Wolfe 11-13-2014 11:42 AM

I'd bleed the brakes first, before hooking the caliper bleeder to the slave bleeder. ;)

I think that replacing the slave cylinder is going to require a bleed regardless of what you pinch off and where.

Lucas 11-13-2014 11:46 AM

Haha. So that's why you are supposed to pinch something. Lol. Well I got lucky. Better take a look at that before next time.


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Guest987 11-13-2014 01:06 PM

What size of cap would you need to put on the line if you separate it?

Lucas 11-13-2014 01:10 PM

4 speed transmission removal
 
If it's been awhile I would drain it. Get fresh fluids in there. I'm OCD but I do this once a year.

I suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster I stole from my moms kitchen. Just don't make the mistake I made by taking the kitchenaid brand one.

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leathermang 11-13-2014 01:15 PM

How many times do the brakes get flushed and new fluid put in ?
I think it is suggested every two years or something....
How many times when changing the brake fluid.. which is probably not done as often as recommended... is the fluid in the clutch system changed ?
I suggest changing out the clutch fluid just ' on principle ' using this project as a good excuse...

Lucas 11-13-2014 01:17 PM

Yeah they usually recommend two years. I end up changing a lot of times when adding because I can't remember if I put synthetic in or not. I don't know if it matters but don't want to find out.


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Guest987 11-13-2014 03:45 PM

I wasn't quite sure I totally understood why the manuals emphasize bleeding the slave cylinder backwards? They suggest from the right front caliper to the slave cylinder and through the master cylinder. Then it pinpoints you can bleed it at the slave cylinder with a power bleeder? The only difference I was to recognize was the cost!

Lucas 11-13-2014 06:53 PM

4 speed transmission removal
 
Hook up a tube between brake caliper and slave. Open breathers. Pump brakes and it will pump fluid from brake caliper up through slave and force air out the reservoir.

Or get a vacuum pump from harbor freight and pump it through the slave. I've never got that either. Tried once, called a buddy.

The brake trick is kinda cool.

What I don't under is when to pinch the tube from reservoir to clutch master cylinder. Before disconnecting, and hook it back up before or after bleeding slave?

Anyone, anyone, bueller...


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charmalu 11-13-2014 10:26 PM

The Slave Cylinder is bled from the bottom up to purge the air. Air rises, right?
A pressure bleeder flushing the Clutch from the Brake MC down through the Clutch system to the Slave really does not work. Tried it and went through a bunch of fluid w/o any results.

The FSM recommends to flush the Clutch from the R/F Caliper, with a hose connected between it`s bleeder screw over to the Slave Bleeder screw. open both screws, and pump the Brake peddle. This cycles the fluid up through the Slave and Clutch MC back to the Brake reservoir.
Be sure to purge the air from the hose before connecting to the Slave. No use entering more air to the system.

Be sure to flush the Brake system and reservoir of old fluid before using this method. also flush the Clutch from the top down will purge out any old crappy gunk that collects in the Slave. You don`t want to contaminate the Brake system.

Another method is to use a Pump Oil Can with Brake fluid connected to the Slave. This pushes the fluid through the system and works.
STEVO has recommended this way and works for him.

Be sure to remove some fluid from the Reservoir since you will be adding fluid and you won`t want to over flow the reservoir.

Pinching the tube or hose from the Brake reservoir to the Clutch MC when replacing the Clutch MC will keep the Brake fluid from draining the reservoir and making a mess in the cabin.

No matter how you go about it, this job is a PITA to do. Some times it just bleeds out the air and other times you are pulling out your hair.

Here is a You Tube Video the explains the system. Yeah I know he is talking about a BMW etc... but the MB is the same.


BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding - YouTube


Charlie

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