the IP-to-timing-cover gasket change: shortcuts?

[Pants]

One of my more substantial oil-hemorrhages is from the three-bolt gasket between the IP and the back of the timing-cover, it appears. My oil's been drained for a few days, yet even without running or moving, that gasket keeps weeping out sooty oil. I've pressure-washed things to within an inch of godliness, and want to keep close to that divine spirit for at least a little while... before my sooty nature returns...

I've I read through 07_1-200, the section on IP removal and replacement, and while it's not as horrible for me to more or less follow that now since I've got some other stuff apart anyway, I'm wondering if there's any shortcut in the case of just wanting to R&R the gasket. A big help, for example: can I maybe skip pulling the oil-filter housing off the block?

Ultra Copper a reasonable choice for these items?

--Dave

[Diesel911]

From your description the leak may or may not be where you think it is. The Bottom Pan on the Fuel Injection Pumps occasionaly leak. There is a big square O-ring that goes in there. It also could likely be sealed with Silicon Sealant once the Pan is removed.

The reason I say the above is that there is always a Pool of Oil inside of the Fuel Injection Pump and that could explain why it continues to leak even after the Oil is drained out.

Also when I changed the Gasket on mine I got one from Mercedes. It was OK but I decided I wanted a Gasket made of thicker material so I used the Stock Gasket as a template and made one.

This is what I did but it may not be fore everyone.
Fuel Injection Pump Removal with the Oil Filter still on 617.952

More info
Repair Links
Fast navigation Fast navigation Do It Yourself Links

DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

[Pants]

thanks Diesel911 - Yeah, I know the rectangular cover you mean - I wish it WERE from that cover (though I don't know that I'd be able to get it out while IP is in place) - but the weeping is clearly from the front edge, with a clean swathe between that end and the cover...also looks to be leaking from the center joint between halves of the IP, now that I've looked at it again. Seriously, I'm sorely tempted to 'brakleen' the crap out of those areas, without any dis-assembly, and then see if I can apply fillets of single-component polyurethane sealant, but that might be a bit like plugging a leaky boat from the inside...

Thanks for steering me to the thread you started a couple of years ago on IP removal. Assuming I go the whole nine yards, is it really so horrible to take off/out the OF body? Having read through the thread you referenced, seems like there's a lot of bailing-wire, duct-tape, and swearing involved in NOT doing so - but clearly a number of people have chosen this battle, so maybe it's indeed worth fighting through with bubble-gum, expletives and all.

I'm attaching the FSM section I have on IP R&R - not sure if this writeup is the gold-standard, but it leaves me one main question. You spent some effort in 're-timing', and I'd like to hear that somehow that's not really necessary, if all I'm going to do is pull the pump out, scrape and clean gasket surfaces, and reinstall with new gasket. The FSM shows what I take to be a key in the spline-drive (p. 4 of 9) that I assume can only engage the drive in one orientation, so this seems reasonable - but I don't know, since I haven't been in there yet. The FSM is written with the assumption being that the mechanic is going to replace with a new IP, not change the (damned) gasket, and I'm thinking that explains why they detail these re-timing requirements. True?

Mahalo - Dave

[Pants]

Had to severely redact my attempt at attachment, to get below the 700kb max...? Too bad - had to delete more than half the pages, and it's pretty low-res - but my pdf editor is crap, so that may be why.

[Carpenterman]

I, too, have that leak. I've always wondered if you couldn't just pull the IP out a little without losing the spline connection, slit the new gasket on the inside of the stud holes, make a slit at the very top of the gasket, and work it in to position around the studs. It might even be beneficial to have two gaskets in there (the original and new).

[Pants]

Interesting idea, that. In fact, I'd try that if I could convince myself I'd adequately cleaned up the old gasket remnants, but that sounds doubtful. And sealant application would be problematic, I think.

I've not done much disassembly on this engine, but I have to wonder if MB had something against gasket-sealers when they built these. It just shouldn't be so hard to prevent all these drips...

[Diesel911]

As I said My thread was not for everyone; think of it as experimental.

Anyway the timing needs to be redone because the Timing Chain and Timing Gear wear changes the Fuel Injection Pump timing as well as the Valve Timing.
However, re-timing the Fuel Injection Pump compensates for the Timing Chain Stretch and or Timing Gear Wear because the Fuel Injection Pump is timed to the Crank Shaft.

No matter what happens to the Splined Collar rotating the Fuel Injection Pump Changes the Timing.

Following the FSM concerning pulling the Fuel Injection Pump off and re-inserting the Fuel Injection Pump sort of gets you into the ball Park as far as timing goes.

Using the Timing/Locking Pin is a little bit more sure but I don't think it is as good as using the Drip Timing Method.

But, you need follow the FSM to line up what was called the notch on the Splined Gear or use the Timing/Locking Pin as a basic starting point (and you can get the Engine runing if you do that) before you do something like the Drip Timing.

[Diesel911]

Originally Posted by Pants

Interesting idea, that. In fact, I'd try that if I could convince myself I'd adequately cleaned up the old gasket remnants, but that sounds doubtful. And sealant application would be problematic, I think.

I've not done much disassembly on this engine, but I have to wonder if MB had something against gasket-sealers when they built these. It just shouldn't be so hard to prevent all these drips...

　
In the case of the Fuel Injection Pump no sealant is used because the Pump needs to be rotated to re-time it.
In this case sealant or not a Paper Gasket shrinks and deteriorates over time. In My case those Gaskets that have not been replaces are 30 Years old.

The Newer Models us an O-ring and even that leaks sometimes.