Let's see what I've gotten myself into - 97 E300D - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PARDS2 · #46 03-20-2015, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmuwk

Did some maintenance on the rig today, mostly to try and get rid of some of the codes I'm having.

I replaced the SOV and no longer have the fuel temp code, so success on that front.

I only have two codes left to fight with:
P0200 - Fuel Injection Circuit Malfunction
P0400 - EGR Malfunction

In an attempt to try and figure out the EGR malfunction (it and the flapper do not actuate), I went about replacing every single rubber vacuum line in the engine bay. All connections from the rubber Y at the brake booster to all the little vacuum rubber connections scattered around the engine bay are now replaced with brand new Mercedes connections and new silicone tube (same stuff I use in the Datsun racecar).

Since I had the intake manifold off, I noticed a couple of my brand new fuel lines were already leaking fuel. Luckily McMaster Carr is 15 minutes away from me, I put in an order for a full set of Viton o-rings and had them replaced within the hour.

All together, I put the engine back together, fired it up, ran it until it got to full operating temp and then shut her off to delete what codes it had.

It still has the P0400 EGR code at idle, the code comes on within a minute or so of running. I can delete it as many times as I want and it'll still throw the code. The EGR does not function on it's own. If I remove the white vacuum line off the brake booster and use my Mityvac, both the flapper door and EGR will open (and close) perfectly! - I may have a leak somewhere in the system it seems.

As for the P0200 - I can delete the code, engine will run perfectly. As soon as it hits around 2800rpm the engine will sputter, start smoking excessively, then the code comes on and the engine runs just fine.

I'm curious if the two are somehow related. Does anyone have experience with the P0200 code on their NA OM606? Curious what was done in solving that issue.

Otherwise, car's running great. I found totally mint drivers seat to throw in at the junkyard, so I'll be doing that when it warms up here. Interior will be just about perfect.

I HAVE A 97 E300D AS WELL. DID THE EGR MOD, THEN TOOK INTAKE OFF AND CLEANED IT THOROUGHLY. INTAKE HOLES ON HEAD WERE 20-30% CLOGGED. USED A SCREWDRIVER, CLOTH AND VACUUM TO CLEAN THEM OUT. CODE 0200 DISAPPEARED FOR A YEAR BUT NOW IT IS BACK. ALSO HAVE A GP OUT SO THE INTAKE IS COMING OFF AGAIN AND HOPE THAT THERE IS A VACUUM HOSE ISSUE FOR THE 0200 CODE WHEN I CHANGE OUT THE GP'S. BTW, DO THE INTAKE FLAPPER ACTUATORS EVER GO BAD? I DO NOT HAVE A BLOCK HEATER, THAT I KNOW OF, IN TEXAS GUYS, SO I THOUGHT USING A HEAT GUN TO HEAT UP EACH GLOW PLUG MIGHT WORK. SHOULD 400 DEGREES WORK IF I DON'T KEEP IT ON THE PLUG TOO LONG? ANY IDEAS FOR HOMEMADE GLOW PLUG PORT REAMERS?
THX

treetops · #47 03-20-2015, 06:48 AM

PARDS2: You more than likely have a block heater as I think it was a standard feature on all OM606s. It is buried under the 4-5 exhaust runners, look for a black cap looking item aft of a small nipple looking fitting. Cord is about $25 or less and keeps the engine toasty. Not so sure a heat gun will make a difference because it is the baked on soot/carbon around the element, not the threads, of the GP that is the problem.

I just did the GPs and made a DIY reamer using a dead GP,JB Weld and a 13/64s drill cut down to the size following others experiences.. Worked well for me.

I did not have any major problems with getting the GPs out,and used bsmuwks experience as a guide too, but BE PATIENT.

99 OM606 Glow Plug R&R:Success

If you have the IM off, may as well do them all and be done with it.

bsmuwk · #48 05-25-2015, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PARDS2

I HAVE A 97 E300D AS WELL. DID THE EGR MOD, THEN TOOK INTAKE OFF AND CLEANED IT THOROUGHLY. INTAKE HOLES ON HEAD WERE 20-30% CLOGGED. USED A SCREWDRIVER, CLOTH AND VACUUM TO CLEAN THEM OUT. CODE 0200 DISAPPEARED FOR A YEAR BUT NOW IT IS BACK. ALSO HAVE A GP OUT SO THE INTAKE IS COMING OFF AGAIN AND HOPE THAT THERE IS A VACUUM HOSE ISSUE FOR THE 0200 CODE WHEN I CHANGE OUT THE GP'S. BTW, DO THE INTAKE FLAPPER ACTUATORS EVER GO BAD? I DO NOT HAVE A BLOCK HEATER, THAT I KNOW OF, IN TEXAS GUYS, SO I THOUGHT USING A HEAT GUN TO HEAT UP EACH GLOW PLUG MIGHT WORK. SHOULD 400 DEGREES WORK IF I DON'T KEEP IT ON THE PLUG TOO LONG? ANY IDEAS FOR HOMEMADE GLOW PLUG PORT REAMERS?
THX

It's most likely way too late to give you a proper answer to this as it's been nearly two months, but you brought up the intake flaps there and if they go bad. Short answer: yes

I came across an original Mercedes HHT that I can plug into the 38-pin plug near the front fuse box and go through all the car's systems. Part of the testing I can do with the HHT is the actuation of the individual resonance flaps. I found one of the flaps was getting correct vacuum, but the flap needed a small touch in order to finally open. You could physically see the flap attempting to open (shut), but it wouldn't do so unless it was provoked. That flap has a weak diaphragm and needs replacement.

Also, you'll want to avoid using a heat gun in localized areas on the head. Uneven heating could warp your head and that's a can of worms no one wants to open.

Anyway, bringing back the HHT. I've been playing around with it far too much and have been clearing and checking everything around the car. I have a couple dead pixels on my instrument cluster that I never knew were dead, but was able to see when the HHT ran the tests. I've also gotten a better idea of what problems my car was having.

I've always been using a standard scanner to read the CEL the car was throwing, EGR and resonance flaps are what the codes commonly represent. Sure, that's fine and dandy, but I'm not one to go and replace parts without much reason so I had to test everything, that's where the HHT came into play - made life way easier.

EGR and intake system were thoroughly cleaned, by thoroughly, I mean spotless. There isn't a milligram of soot anywhere in the intake tracts. As preventive maintenance, I made a plug for the exhaust manifold and threw a small air filter on the EGR, that way, it will only suck in fresh air, rather than sooty exhaust. Car runs fantastic with no soot in the intake. All resonance flaps were tested with vacuum and did not leak down. So, OK, why the heck is this system still throwing a CEL?

The HHT runs a quick test and will give me every single issue the car has, I had one engine related code and a couple body codes (IR sensor, puddle light bulb out, stupid stuff like that). The code it gave me?

P1404 - EGR AHR-Controlled

Now, you'd think we'd be playing with the EGR here, right? No. The HHT has test values for everything EGR related, it works and checks out perfectly at 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100% opening.

Ran the resonance flaps through their paces, pressure flap by the EGR, that's fine. Intake flap, that's fine. Intake crossover flap, well I'll be damned it's not opening. It needed a little persuasion with activation to open. I found it odd that it wouldn't open since it held vacuum and open and closes without binding by hand. Seems like it behaves differently on the car than in hand. I have a replacement and will be throwing it on shortly.

I'll make some videos on how the HHT works and it's testing procedures.

bsmuwk · #49 05-26-2015, 11:06 PM

Well a bit more cleaning of that intake pipe resonance flap free'd it up a bit. Actuates well.

Anyway, made a bit of a video using the ever fabled Mercedes HHT.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiTOBHO8nRM

jay_bob · #50 05-27-2015, 08:52 PM

Wow how did you score that unit. I looked on eBay and there was one listed and the guy wanted over $1000 for it...

VW1300 · #51 05-28-2015, 08:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsmuwk

Well a bit more cleaning of that intake pipe resonance flap free'd it up a bit. Actuates well.

Thanks for the follow-up. That intake system has been a nuisance on my '97 so all information is welcome.

m1tch · #52 05-28-2015, 08:49 AM

With regards to the fuel around the injectors (if you havn't sorted it already), I found that this happened on mine but the return lines are fine - they are filled up owing to a previous owner cranking the engine over with the injector lines leaking to bleed the system after a fuel filter change.

jay_bob · #53 05-28-2015, 01:54 PM

Also the wells can fill up with lube oil if the valve cover gaskets leak.

This engine has 7 valve cover gaskets - one big perimeter gasket and 6 o-rings around the injectors.

alipak · #54 05-28-2015, 04:34 PM

I have a 96 W210 OM606 and I blocked the EGR & used the Small filter setup for fresh air. However every time I rev the Engine to merge on Freeway I get code P0400. Got tire of resetting the code so I reverted it back to factory setup. I am still having the same issue. Anyone has any clue for me to fix this issue as I plan on giving the car to a relative who is in dire need of a daily driver.

By the way last month I bought a 2011 GL350 Bluetec with 127k miles (one owner dealer maintained). Hoping it is as reliable as my W210 which still runs perfect but I got tired of looking at it.

m1tch · #55 05-29-2015, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alipak

I have a 96 W210 OM606 and I blocked the EGR & used the Small filter setup for fresh air. However every time I rev the Engine to merge on Freeway I get code P0400. Got tire of resetting the code so I reverted it back to factory setup. I am still having the same issue. Anyone has any clue for me to fix this issue as I plan on giving the car to a relative who is in dire need of a daily driver.

By the way last month I bought a 2011 GL350 Bluetec with 127k miles (one owner dealer maintained). Hoping it is as reliable as my W210 which still runs perfect but I got tired of looking at it.

How have you blocked the EGR? Have you also done the EGR delete mod? If not then the ECU will sense that the EGR isn't working (using the air flow readings on the MAF sensor) and will throw a code and limit boost.

I believe the P0400 code is the code thrown if the car senses that the EGR isn't working correctly - I guess it depends on how you have disabled the EGR.

alipak · #56 05-29-2015, 02:56 PM

I just put at plate on the outlet of Exhaust Manifold to block it and then I took the EGR pipe (still connected to EGR on one side) and put in a Small filter so that EGR get's Fresh filtered air. Have I done something wrong?

tjts1 · #57 05-29-2015, 04:45 PM

96 non turbo doesn't have a MAF sensor. The 96 EGR system is completely different from the 97. I suspect you have another problem like a cracked vacuum hose at one of the 3 flaps, egr valve or something else. Inspect all the small vacumm hoses closely.

alipak · #58 05-29-2015, 07:45 PM

tjts1

I will try that. Never did paid attention to cracked or leaking hose. Thanks for your advise.

bsmuwk · #59 05-30-2015, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jay_bob

Wow how did you score that unit. I looked on eBay and there was one listed and the guy wanted over $1000 for it...

I'd have to kill you if I told you.

Friends in good places is all.

Quote:

Originally Posted by VW1300

Thanks for the follow-up. That intake system has been a nuisance on my '97 so all information is welcome.

If there's one thing I learned in getting these systems in good working order is to be absolutely anal in the cleanliness of the work you're doing. My intake resonance flap would hang up only at the 1st millimeter of actuation. I took a small brass brush and cleaned up the spring, and flap area itself - all with liberal use of brake cleaner. I also put a dab of antiseize in the slot that the flap rotates in.

Quote:

Originally Posted by m1tch

With regards to the fuel around the injectors (if you havn't sorted it already), I found that this happened on mine but the return lines are fine - they are filled up owing to a previous owner cranking the engine over with the injector lines leaking to bleed the system after a fuel filter change.

I had mine sorted out with new return lines. I've had a few instances on other cars where somebody tried bleeding the lines only to end up overtightening the lines and somehow cracking them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by alipak

I have a 96 W210 OM606 and I blocked the EGR & used the Small filter setup for fresh air. However every time I rev the Engine to merge on Freeway I get code P0400. Got tire of resetting the code so I reverted it back to factory setup. I am still having the same issue. Anyone has any clue for me to fix this issue as I plan on giving the car to a relative who is in dire need of a daily driver.

By the way last month I bought a 2011 GL350 Bluetec with 127k miles (one owner dealer maintained). Hoping it is as reliable as my W210 which still runs perfect but I got tired of looking at it.

Make sure your vacuum lines are in good shape, you were messing around with the EGR area and there's a cluster of vacuum lines in that area that'll throw the code.

bsmuwk · #60 08-21-2015, 01:44 AM

Alrighty, well I've been plugging away with this thing for a solid 8 months now and it's safe to say that it is officially check engine light and error free. The EGR code kept coming back for it binding. I threw it in mineral spirits and kept actuating it while scrubbing it with my firearm cleaning brushes. Once it was absolutely spotless, I spent some time actuating it with it soaked in PB blaster. Code hasn't popped up since.

I do random system checks with the HHT and I'll be needing to replace the coolant temp sensor by the oil filter housing down the road. It doesn't know what to do when the AC is on. You can tell the car is feeling a bit laggy when it get's up to operating temp with AC on. If the AC is off, car feels great and drives great.

Everything, outside of the sunroof, is now functional though. The sunroof pops up and all, but won't slide back, cable problem for sure. I need to grab some parts off some junkyard cars (side bellows) before I order new cables. I never realized how much I actually miss having a working sunroof....

With that said, she's taken on quite the transformation from last December. She's now totally rust free and undercoated underneath. Every last rust spot was shot down to bare metal, treated, POR'd, primed, painted, and undercoated. Should be good to go for a while.

While I was throwing on the AMG/Sport side skirts I POR'd the rockers and clip points. Bit later on, once the Pagoda restoration and Datsun is running, I'll be bringing this thing into the garage for some new fenders and a total respray. Should look sharp. I'm hoping to find a AMG/Sport or some non gaudy aftermarket bumpers for this before then.

Here's how the car is sitting now though.

This is all that's really changed on the outside.

17x8 and 17x8.5 CLK AMG wheels
Facelift AMG/Sport Side skirts (anybody have some damn jack hole covers for these) I'm missing two
OEM Xenon Headlights
100W Yellow Fogs
#1 bump spring pads all around
TOTAL brake system overhaul (new hoses, caliper seals, rotors, pads, etc)
Calipers painted gold
E55 AMG sway bars

I'm going to refinish these AMG's, throw some new 225/45 and 235/45 tires I have sitting around on them, 15mm spacers in the rear and 10mm up front, then throw some H&R springs on it and this thing should have a fairly aggressive stance.....for the gutless diesel that it is lmao.

I have a small thumping type vibration at around 15-25mph, you feel it more in 3rd. I made a new polyurethane reinforced trans mount for it. Should pair nicely with new motor mounts, flex discs and center support.

That's all I've got for now. If anyone has a lead on some jack hole covers for the facelift sport/AMG side skirts, let me know. I'm not feeling the $90 each price from Mercedes on some stupid plastic pieces...