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  #16  
Old 11-21-2014, 11:18 AM
funola's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masc243 View Post
Mine is a sedan. I consistently get 27.5; no matter how I drive it. That is as measured at each fillup. Kinda hard to see on my pics, but the fuel was just under a half tank; odometer (which was reset at last fillup) is reading 258.
Average fillup is at around 415 miles and takes about 15 gallons. I've never seen below 27.4 and never above 27.6. Usually fill at the same station and stop at the first auto stop by the fuel pump dispenser. I'm about 60% at 65mph on the freeway and the rest at 40ish with some stop and go. All flat. Summer time with AC on in the afternoon, average might drop to 26.5.

Next question would be are you pushing any white smoke, (unburned fuel)? I assume there are no leaks in the engine bay or at the tank feed and return?

How does it run overall; Idle quality, rpm at idle? Does the governor have full control of the idle, or have you had to bump it with the external adjustment at the throttle linkage inboard of the IP?

I put the new nozzles in this morning. Ran good but had a little knock; had the timing slightly retarded, edged it exactly back to the hashmark strike and all seems to have settled down. Seems to run quite a bit smoother than it did with the monarchs (261's) that I put in earlier this year. I know lots of folks like them, but i just wasn't happy with them. They spray different than the 240's and the car was just inconsistent in idle quality and general operation. One day an absolute pleasure to drive, the next would be uneven idle, occasional mild surging felt at 65 mph. Have 2 injectors that have a minor leak at the halves, gonna have to take em back out and do some more polishing. Don't have any shims, but all are popping between 1850 and 1925. Wrote the numbers down just in case I come across some shims on the cheap; will likely try to fine tune them another day. Might get lucky and find the leakers are the low ones and might get them to come up with more polishing. I've discovered that you'll never know if they are gonna leak until you run them.

On your car, keep in mind that it's great to have the timing dead on per the fsm, but if your injectors are popping low, this will affect the actual injection timing at the cylinder. I'm thinking Low pop pressure will advance the timing for that particular cylinder, higher pop pressure will retard it. So the timing set to fsm is great, but it has to marry up with injectors that are spraying correctly and popping at 135.

There is a check in the fsm that has you; (I have not done this test)
1. Cap off the main return line from #1 injector to the IP
2. Hook up a piece of tubing to each injector return. (Cap the other like on number 5)
3. capture the fuel from each return line and measure the quantity . Supposed to run it at 750 rpm for 2.5 minutes. Captured fuel should vary by less than 1.5cc

You'll need 5 pieces of 4mm tubing cut to 24 inches.
5 pieces of 4mm tubing cut to 1.5 inches with a plug inserted to plug the unused return nipple.
5 containers to capture the fuel.

Mike
No white smoke and no fuel leaks anywhere- car is totally leak free and does not mark its territory. Slight black smoke if I floor it.

It starts and runs great. idles at 650 from a cold start without hesitation, stumble or smoke. Warm idle is 700. Valves are adjusted to spec.

I put new Monark nozzles popped and balanced to factory specs less than 1000 miles ago and gained a little more pep (0-60= 13 seconds) but no gain in fuel economy. With the old OE nozzles with 157k, car also started and ran good, mpg were the same (20-21 city) with 0-60 = 14 seconds.

Timing is spot on at factory specs, confirmed with AB timing light and my own Xenon strobe timing light which also checked the dynamic advance.

I did check that the brakes were not dragging a year ago. I even took the brake pads out and cleaned and lubed the sliding surfaces. I did check after a run (w/o much brake use) the brakes were not hot, nor were the wheel bearings.

The transmission seems to be shifting good although I have not verified the shift points. Fluid is nice and pink with no burnt smell.

I have not verified p/n's of the transmission and diff but I have no reason to believe they are not what should be in an 85, i.e. 617.315 transmission and 2.88 diff.

So where does that leave me? What should I be looking at next?

I think I will look at the brakes again to make sure there is absolutely no drag. How would you do that? Tips welcome.

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  #17  
Old 11-21-2014, 11:25 AM
funola's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masc243 View Post
..........................

There is a check in the fsm that has you; (I have not done this test)
1. Cap off the main return line from #1 injector to the IP
2. Hook up a piece of tubing to each injector return. (Cap the other like on number 5)
3. capture the fuel from each return line and measure the quantity . Supposed to run it at 750 rpm for 2.5 minutes. Captured fuel should vary by less than 1.5cc

You'll need 5 pieces of 4mm tubing cut to 24 inches.
5 pieces of 4mm tubing cut to 1.5 inches with a plug inserted to plug the unused return nipple.
5 containers to capture the fuel.

Mike
What chapter in the FSM is this and what does it check?
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  #18  
Old 11-21-2014, 12:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
No white smoke and no fuel leaks anywhere- car is totally leak free and does not mark its territory. Slight black smoke if I floor it.

It starts and runs great. idles at 650 from a cold start without hesitation, stumble or smoke. Warm idle is 700. Valves are adjusted to spec.

I put new Monark nozzles popped and balanced to factory specs less than 1000 miles ago and gained a little more pep (0-60= 13 seconds) but no gain in fuel economy. With the old OE nozzles with 157k, car also started and ran good, mpg were the same (20-21 city) with 0-60 = 14 seconds.

Timing is spot on at factory specs, confirmed with AB timing light and my own Xenon strobe timing light which also checked the dynamic advance.

I did check that the brakes were not dragging a year ago. I even took the brake pads out and cleaned and lubed the sliding surfaces. I did check after a run (w/o much brake use) the brakes were not hot, nor were the wheel bearings.

The transmission seems to be shifting good although I have not verified the shift points. Fluid is nice and pink with no burnt smell.

I have not verified p/n's of the transmission and diff but I have no reason to believe they are not what should be in an 85, i.e. 617.315 transmission and 2.88 diff.

So where does that leave me? What should I be looking at next?

I think I will look at the brakes again to make sure there is absolutely no drag. How would you do that? Tips welcome.
You've got me stumped....
Sounds like it is a perfect running engine that is simply inefficient. Your zero to 60 times keep from from thinking you have a brake drag problem, or even an accessory that has too much friction such as the PS pump, alternator or ac compressor clutch.
Easy to just get it on jacks and spin each wheel; should spin freely.

Have you noticed any flaring in the tranny when shifting. Kinda like it reaches a shift point, but doesn't fully release. Easy way to check is to disconnect the vac line at either the vac control valve or the blue cover vacuum amp by the left hood hinge. Take for a short drive, but go easy through the gears as it will shift rather harsh. Get it up to speed in 4th gear and note your rpm vs your original post. If the B2 valve (i think that's what it's called, some one feel free to correct me) is operating properly, the RPM should be identical to what you noted earlier. If rpm is lower, then your vcv may not be fully allowing the tranny to fully shift.

I'm kinda brainstorming here. Might also raise the entire rear end and spin one wheel. Wheel should spin freely and you should note the opposite wheel spin in the opposite direction with no real excessive friction related slow down.

Don't really know what to make of it. 22 mpg is simply too low; especially for a motor that seems to be running quite well.
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2014, 10:47 AM
funola's Avatar
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Join Date: May 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masc243 View Post
......................

Have you noticed any flaring in the tranny when shifting. Kinda like it reaches a shift point, but doesn't fully release. Easy way to check is to disconnect the vac line at either the vac control valve or the blue cover vacuum amp by the left hood hinge. Take for a short drive, but go easy through the gears as it will shift rather harsh. Get it up to speed in 4th gear and note your rpm vs your original post. If the B2 valve (i think that's what it's called, some one feel free to correct me) is operating properly, the RPM should be identical to what you noted earlier. If rpm is lower, then your vcv may not be fully allowing the tranny to fully shift. ...........................
I have not noticed any flaring, shifts were soft, quiet and not noticeable and the tach needle does not rise during shifts. I had a chance yesterday and unplugged the vac line at the blue flying saucer (ARV valve?) and went for a drive and shot this video (accelerating from 50 to 60 mph, cruise for a few seconds then decelerate by letting off the throttle). I am not sure what I am suppose to be looking for- the RPM's were similar with the vac line connected. The big difference I noticed was the shifts (both up and down) were clunky and noticeable, especially the last down shift while decelerating coming to a stop which was especially clunky and shook the rear end. Any other ideas welcome.

CLICK TO PLAY VIDEO!
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2014, 10:56 AM
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back in the 80's we raced a camaro with an automatic TH400 tranny, that had the TC removed, and a flywheel and clutch with a nose piece installed to drive the pump. worked great, and solid lockup... perhaps something like that may be needed to work around the auto tranny issues...

not saying it's worth it, but it's what we did on the race car.

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