On my winter road trip, the cable release got really stiff - so much so I thought I might break it. I guess all the moisture and airborne gunk from trucks and whatever got in there.

I removed the cable from the hood end, snaked it out so I could hang it up so the hood end was higher than the cabin with a nice smooth gradient. I then used some transmission fluid and with a cable tie dipped in it let it run onto the cable and down into the sleeve. Did this maybe 25 times followed by exercising the cable in the sleeve. It's now as smooth as can be and only minimal pressure to release the hood.

Attached Thumbnails

 

__________________
Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

On an 85 300D there is an adjustment for the hood release cable in the engine side, near the latch under a plastic cover.

The release cable stretches and if not repaced in time, will not open the hood, speaking from experience! The long handled screw driver thing will open the hood, had to use this to get to shut off stop. Ill try and get a picture of this process so members will be able to duplicate.

I did this for a while till my cable came in. Usually best to remove plastic cover to access this later as the plastic casing blocks the lever iirc

Replacing the cable and lubing it with 3 in 1 or bicycle chain lube or maybe Even transmission oil as mentioned above. , is the best solution If you are already having concerns.

I replaced a broken cable and now i know better.

__________________
1982 240 D, 308,000 - 321,127 miles (sold)
1982 300 TD,166,500 - 226,000 miles
1998 E 320, 120,000 - 144,000 miles
2005 C 230 K, 26,000 - 77,000 miles (sold)

the way I have lubed a lot of such cables (motorcycles/bicycles/etc) is to first get one end of the cable out of the control system.

get a plastic baggie and wrap it around the cable sheath with some strong tape, fill up some oil in it (even cheap motor oil) and hang the thing, move the cable in n out a bit to wick it in. It will be ok after a few minutes.

I would not like to do this on a cable which has a nylon liner on the wires, the nylon swells up from oil contact.

OTOH - I have done quite some "bush specification" repairs on such cables with replacement cable inserts, screw type locking ends and a drop of acid solder. (like bicycle brake cables)

__________________
2012 BMW X5 (Beef + Granite suspension model)

1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)

Very nice Mach4. I use Kroil &/or ATF - either seems to 'creep' into the sheath very well. Never thought of having gravity help it along. Good job!