Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-23-2014, 02:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: RI
Posts: 1,040
85 300D Brake Master Cylinder

How does one dis-assemble the MC. I have the c-clip removed, a pin inside one of the reservoir ports is also removed. Twist and pull isn't working. Is there another pin type thing holding it together? I've looked around and it seems that this pin I took out was the only thing holding everything inside. It came out pretty easily.
I am just doing this to "play" I have no intention to rebuild the thing as they are pretty cheap, I want to look at the seals and bore to see if I am right that the last time I did the pump and dump bleed, I screwed up letting the pedal go all the way down.
Thanks.

__________________
1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-23-2014, 02:55 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
Next time you can put a two by four piece of wood under the pedal to keep that from accidentally happening.... might stack them to be sure...
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-23-2014, 04:04 PM
mannys9130's Avatar
Ignorance is a disease
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 1,251
Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Next time you can put a two by four piece of wood under the pedal to keep that from accidentally happening.... might stack them to be sure...
Exactly what I do, and it works great. I measure the max pedal travel before I touch anything and cut a stick of wood to prevent the pedal from being pushed further than that. I tape the stick to the pedal and begin the work. Then when I ask my sister to pump the pedal, I don't worry about her overstroking the master.
__________________
'84 190D 2.2 5MT (Red/Palomino) Current car. Love it!
'85 190D 2.2 Auto *Cali* (Blue/Blue) *sold*
http://badges.fuelly.com/images/sig-us/302601.png
http://i959.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/sideview.png
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-23-2014, 05:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: RI
Posts: 1,040
Thanks guys, but I still want to take apart the old MC. I'm thinking to use some gun cleaning tools to clean out the bore, replace the seals with a seal kit, and place it on the shelf for a spare. I forgot about the block of wood trick when I did the rears last summer, mainly because I've been using a Motive bleeder for years. I had it out on loan when I did the rear brakes and just had a senior moment when having my wife pump for me.
__________________
1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-23-2014, 07:37 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
Posts: 17,281
We don't have the answer... but we keep bumping it up where someone that does ought to see it..... if you want I can probably make up something which will sound good.... but still won't be correct... three people on this forum claim I do that all the time....
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-24-2014, 04:00 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,115
I never thought of the block of wood to keep the piston from travelling into the grunge zone. One shouldn't have to do this on a new MC. I have silicone fluid in both my 300D's, so corrosion is no longer a concern. I recently removed an MC from my 65 Newport after 20 years using silicone and found it pristine inside. The MC still worked fine, I was switching from single pot to a safer dual-reservoir MC.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-25-2014, 09:02 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: RI
Posts: 1,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
I never thought of the block of wood to keep the piston from travelling into the grunge zone. One shouldn't have to do this on a new MC. I have silicone fluid in both my 300D's, so corrosion is no longer a concern. I recently removed an MC from my 65 Newport after 20 years using silicone and found it pristine inside. The MC still worked fine, I was switching from single pot to a safer dual-reservoir MC.
The problems I had with silicone fluid had to do with the moisture pooling and rotting out lines. On a frequently used/maintained car this shouldn't be an issue and I only ran into it once when I bought a car that had been sitting for years. Right now I am wrestling with myself over a very very inexpensive MC I found at a car parts on-line. like under $18.00 and new. But I think I'll just do the cheaper one shown at this site seeing as it's brakes I doing.

__________________
1985 300D 197K - Semi-Daily Driver Diesel
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 226K - Daily Driver 2
1998 Volvo S70 140K - Wife's DD
2003 GMC Sonoma ZR2 Option - Rusty Truck
THE BABY 1958 220S Sedan 66K All original, never restored and never will be.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:56 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page