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  #1  
Old 11-23-2014, 04:28 PM
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Sheared off a water pump pulley bolt

So yes indeedy, I did do this. LSS combo of me and a defective torque wrench=a bit of well I only wanted to change the glow plugs out. Anywho, looks like I really should take off the front half of the pump to drill/ez out this bugger, BUT would it work for now to just use two of the four bolts.

Is this really doable or am I crazy to even think this way. Any one else run a pump pulley with just two bolts holding it on and how long before it grenade'd

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  #2  
Old 11-23-2014, 05:02 PM
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I did exactly the same thing a week ago. On my 124.

Fortunately the flange holes are far enough away from the center that you can drive the bolt all the way through and drop it out the back side. I just used a small drill bit to make a starter hole and then a larger one to slowly twist the stub out enough to grab the tip of the bolt with pliers and twist it out.

If you have a right angle drill or a Dremel with a right angle attachment, you may not even need to pull the water pump. Just be sure to cover the gap between the flange and the pump body so you don't get trash in the bearings.

I did not have either of those so I ended up pulling the pump. Fortunately I had just replaced the water pump so I knew the bolts would come back out easy. What stunk is I had to drain the coolant I had just filled.

If you end up pulling the pump, a 28 oz whole tomato can is just the right diameter to provide support to the pump body while you work on the flange. Just happened to be handy in the recycling bin.

Lowe's has the correct bolts and spring washers in stock.

To answer your original question, no way would I run on 3 bolts. Too much torque and side load from the belts to try that.
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2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

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  #3  
Old 11-23-2014, 05:36 PM
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It is totally up to you whether or not to try it on two bolts; but, if the pulley slides over a centering hub, and is normally held by four bolts, my guess is it would be fine on two for awhile.

If the bolt was going in smoothly and broke from too much torque you will probably be able to remove the stub of the bolt by hand or with a reverse drill bit on a right angle drill.

Consider replacing all four bolts.
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Old 11-23-2014, 05:52 PM
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wow thanks, this is a bit of a jam. Welp, already drained the coolant in prep to get the WP out. If all else fails I will have accomplished a coolant change.

I did actually get this dewalt 90 attachment, but it is wobbly as all get out so thats why Im of the mind to get the WP out or SWAGing at the two bolt idea.

I will go back to trying to work the stub out with the 90 drill and Jays idea(not enough of a stub to grab yet on the back of the flange).

In case that fails, whats the best way to get at the front lower WP bolt see photo, Ive done a couple dry runs with 1/4 and 3/8 sockets(1/4 seems better) and cant get a good connect on the hex head. The TDC sensor bit is in the way, not wanting to mess with that.
Attached Thumbnails
Sheared off a water pump pulley bolt-frt-lowest-wp-bolt.jpg   Sheared off a water pump pulley bolt-5472848121.jpg  
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  #5  
Old 11-23-2014, 06:46 PM
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Whew that came out much better than expected

Well thanks guys, and to the next unlucky fellow: Some PBlaster and working the 90 degree drill attachment worked, came out the back of the flange as you said jay_bob. Now off to get some new coolant.

BTW that Dewalt unit was the smallest I could find and IMO better than the HF 90, too big to fit or HF/Ryobi versions which are a flexible type which I couldnt see working too well. HD didnt have the quik connect bits small enough but HF did. Only had 4" clearance between the rad and WP flange. Gotta love my local hardware too as they have a good selection of metric nuts n bolts which compared to MB prices is about 6x less

HTH some one else and thanks for the tips.
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Sheared off a water pump pulley bolt-wp-stub.jpg   Sheared off a water pump pulley bolt-wp-newb.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 11-23-2014, 07:53 PM
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Remember that left hand drill bits are available... and often work by themselves...
the next ' bigger hammer' is to tap with left hand threads....and put a left hand bolt into it.... almost no chance it can resist all those things... and most come out as soon as the pressure is relieved by getting close to the threads as you keep going to bigger drill bits..
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  #7  
Old 11-23-2014, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Remember that left hand drill bits are available... and often work by themselves...
the next ' bigger hammer' is to tap with left hand threads....and put a left hand bolt into it.... almost no chance it can resist all those things... and most come out as soon as the pressure is relieved by getting close to the threads as you keep going to bigger drill bits..
Nice trick. I'll have to remember that.
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Old 11-23-2014, 10:00 PM
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This is an M6 threaded fastener with a through hole about 1/2 inch deep. No need for the heavy artillery here...just a little gentle persuasion and it twisted right out. Biggest PITA was pulling the pump, I had the stub out in 90 seconds after the pump was in my hand.

To all who follow, I would plan on replacing those bolts on principle whenever you remove the pulley. They cost under $2 for the pack of 4 bolts and a pack of spring washers at Lowes.

__________________
The OM 642/722.9 powered family
Still going strong
2014 ML350 Bluetec (wife's DD)
2013 E350 Bluetec (my DD)

both my kids cars went to junkyard in 2023
2008 ML320 CDI (Older son’s DD) fatal transmission failure, water soaked/fried rear SAM, numerous other issues, just too far gone to save (165k miles)
2008 E320 Bluetec (Younger son's DD) injector failed open and diluted oil with diesel, spun main bearings (240k miles)

1998 E300DT sold to TimFreeh
1987 300TD sold to vstech
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