Change delivery Valve seals, now knocking
 

300 SDL was leaking at the delivery valve seals. I changed the first two towards the front of the car and it started up great and ran better then ever, I moved to the two middle ones where they were leaking and now after i tried to start it took me about 15-20 tries, and now the car was knocking very very bad. Did i get a piece of dirt in the fuel? Any ideas? Whats the next step from here? Tried to go for a drive and it doesn't produce much power. Also gong on a road trip to florida tomorrow! :(


EDIT: So the 4th delivery valve from the front was dry when i took the fuel line off, i took the valve out cleaned it up and put it back in, ran brake cleaner and starting fluid through the fuel line going into the manifold and it ran through fine. I tightened it up and i cracked the 4th fuel line to the manifold and theres no fuel coming out...any ideas?

If it is just nailing a little people have reported this happeing after changing the Seals and it usually goes away after a few hundred Miles.


If it is really knocking loud and you are sure all of the Air is out of the system a few People have manged to pull up the Barrel part of the Element and get it a bove and out of the slot and have torqued the Delivery Valve holders like that.

For mor info: DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

[QUOTE=Base1375;3412340]300 SDL was leaking at the delivery valve seals. I changed the first two towards the front of the car and it started up great and ran better then ever, I moved to the two middle ones where they were leaking and now after i tried to start it took me about 15-20 tries, and now the car was knocking very very bad. Did i get a piece of dirt in the fuel? Any ideas? Whats the next step from here? Tried to go for a drive and it doesn't produce much power. Also gong on a road trip to florida tomorrow! :(


EDIT: So the 4th delivery valve from the front was dry when i took the fuel line off, i took the valve out cleaned it up and put it back in, ran brake cleaner and starting fluid through the fuel line going into the manifold and it ran through fine. I tightened it up and i cracked the 4th fuel line to the manifold and theres no fuel coming out...any ideas?[/QUOTE]

This makes it sound like one of the Element Barrels got pulled up and out of the alignment slot and over the Pin in the Housing. The seems to happen 2-3 times a year when People do the same job.

I think there is pictures in this one:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/317678-replaced-delivery-valve-seals-w124-300d.html
Concerning the above Thread. When the side Cover is removed at the top of the area where the Gasket Seals you can see the Barrel Alighment Pins and the Holes and where the Metal has been staked over to keep the Pins from moving out. Sometimes if the Element Barrel has not been lined up with the Slot when the Delivery Valve holder is tightened that pin gest pushed out past the staked area.
If that happend you can see that that Pin is not as deep inside the hole as the rest of the Pins.

Worst cases. The Pin gets bent or the Housing cracks.


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/361098-om606-910-possible-delivery-valve-issue.html#post3398462

post #10
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/356963-1987-300d-injection-pump-issue.html#post3354714

FWIW when I changed my DV seals the motor knocked and clacked for almost 500 miles. As I drove it more it slowly got better and better.

-J

X2- I've done two sets of om603 DV seals this year and each time the engine sounded bad- nailing like it had really work injector nozzles- the noise worked itself out in time. A quick Italian tune up seemed to speed the process (foot to floor, repeated as necessary or as many times as you want)

Been there. On an isuzu I ended up rotating the barrel slightly and off a tooth. Basically running rich. Could have burnt the piston but I heard the knocking.

I asked my IP guy to change my seals, and said I'm ready to try again.

A little nervous.

Sounds like this IP might be different though.

I need to learn more about these.

When I used to work rebuilding Fuel Injection Pumps the 2 things I did to make sure the Barrels were installed in the Housing properly was after the Barrels were all in to look and see if they were all installed at the same depth.

Next after the Delivery Valves and Springs were inside was to run the Delivery Valve Holders down as far as they would go by Hand and then look or put a Straight Edge across the top of them to see if all of the Delivery Valve Holders were at the same Height.
I never torqued the Delivery Valve Holders without knowing they were all at the same height.

The above works because it is extremely unlikely that you are going to get all of the Barrels installed wrong.