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  #1  
Old 11-25-2014, 02:47 PM
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Which model, 240d or 300d????

I am going to pull the trigger on buying a 1980-1983 240d or 300d as a second car. I want to have a manual transmission in it and the 300d turbo motor. What would be the best route to go???
1) Obtaining a 240d with manual transmission then swapping over the 300d turbo motor and swapping in the 300d rear end?
2) Obtaining a 300d with automatic then swapping over to the manual transmission?

Which option is the cheaper of the two? Which option is the easier of the two?
Which option is the more reliable of the two with regards to the A/C, windows, etc...???

I want to make sure I purchase the correct car!!!!!!

Thanks!!!!!!!
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  #2  
Old 11-25-2014, 03:00 PM
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1979 & 1985 300D's
 
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Curious about the year range. If you want a turbo 300D, you will need to focus on 1982-1985 300D's. 1977-1981 did not have turbo's. If you buy a 240D and swap in the motor and rear end, it really doesn't matter what year you go for as not much changed between 1977 and 1983 (the last year of the 240D). So I'd say you could search for a 1977-1983 240D or a 1982-1985 300D (the 1985 has the tallest rear end ratio at 2.88 which is desirable for highway driving, all the other turbos have 3.07)

Do you also want manual climate control? Manual windows? Manual or no sunroof? If so, then get the 240D and swap in your motor and rear end of choice. It would be easier than also swapping over all that other stuff from the 240D. All of those manual items will just about never fail unless abused.

Otherwise, it will be easier to swap the transmission over to the 300D if you're cool with auto climate, power windows, power sunroof, etc. and the potential for parts failure that goes with those.
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  #3  
Old 11-25-2014, 03:06 PM
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Buy the one with the least amount of rust.

Mechanicals can always be changed.
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  #4  
Old 11-25-2014, 03:22 PM
Benzguy300
 
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O I will go for option 2 and buy a300D and look for a transmission kit from a 240 you can buy a kit for as little as$350.
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  #5  
Old 11-25-2014, 03:34 PM
dkr dkr is offline
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I'm not sure where you are but I've seen 4-speed transmissions in junkyards on 240Ds before. You may be able to find a parts car in your area or just buy one that has already been taken out.

Dkr.
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  #6  
Old 11-25-2014, 05:25 PM
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Location: central Texas
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Why am I the only one that posts any warnings about needing a hard to find 300 FLYWHEEL to do this properly.... many folks who have used the 240 flywheel have admitted to having vibrations which they can not get rid of ....
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  #7  
Old 11-26-2014, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leathermang View Post
Why am I the only one that posts any warnings about needing a hard to find 300 FLYWHEEL to do this properly.... many folks who have used the 240 flywheel have admitted to having vibrations which they can not get rid of ....
Exactly. I was interested to convert my '79 300td when my automatic went south, but luckily stumbled onto something about vibration or shudder then asked around.

I got replies that sort of said "Oh, yeah, well there is that" or "It only happens at xxxx rpms so I just ignore it." Etc.
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  #8  
Old 11-26-2014, 01:19 AM
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I have a euro with manual trans, and manual dual heat controls... 84, 300d... For sale. In Gastonia NC
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  #9  
Old 11-26-2014, 01:49 AM
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Not as easy as welding weights to a 616 flywheel?

Sixto
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  #10  
Old 11-26-2014, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Not as easy as welding weights to a 616 flywheel?

Sixto
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LOL
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  #11  
Old 11-26-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I have a euro with manual trans, and manual dual heat controls... 84, 300d... For sale. In Gastonia NC
NA ? How much ?
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2014, 01:25 PM
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I took the route of using a very nicely restored 83 240D which had all the features of a 300D turbo except for the name plate and the chrome trim around the taillights. I also had a 1985 300D turbo which I had for 8 or so years and it was and is an excellent runner.
So I did the switch on that basis. There is still plenty of work involved to get it all correct. But you will have every part you need, (although you undoubtedly will replace some while you are in there) except for the correct rear transmission cross member, correct front driveshaft and shift levers, all four pieces must be modified by four inches, all must be 4" shorter. If your engine is a 85 617 Turbo, you will have to make provision for a special pilot bearing. The hole in the shaft is small by about 1mm, but I was able to get it in by deep freeze shrinking and getting it in there fast. I also used the 240D flywheel and have no objection to the slight vibes I get under full load or full throttle at maximum torque. Yes it does briefly vibrate slightly, which it will do even with the heavy flywheel, but it will be reduced somewhat. Use the 300 D radiator and oil cooler and transfer the coolant recovery unit which is mounted on the inner right side fender of the 300D. The 240D does not have the recovery unit and the radiator is to small. And when you are finished, if the rest of the car is up to snuff, it will be a wonderful driver. I really like mine.
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2014, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by junqueyardjim View Post
..... vibrate slightly, which it will do even with the heavy flywheel, but it will be reduced somewhat. ...
I believe you are taking a little liberty in stating that as a fact ... probably based on the fact that many people or mechanics do not manage to match up replacement flywheels correctly ... even when dealing with a five cylinder to five cylinder situation.... The original 5 cylinder flywheels are dynamically balanced on the engine.... and there are instructions as to matching to that one.. which is often not followed... many thinking that neutral balanced with do... thus a wide range of situations exists decades away from the original engine leaving the factory...
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2014, 09:24 PM
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You ever considered a 240D with a boost kit in it?
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2014, 09:38 PM
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Has anyone had a custom flywheel machined? How would they balance it to the motor? In the block itself or is there some kind of jig? Or is it a weight thing?

I understand balancing a motor with balancing out the Pistons and rods by weight. But that's about it.

I hope asking here pertains. If OP is doing a swap, maybe he's more curious than me.
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