My '84 Mercedes-Benz 190D hasn't been running like it should for some time now, it starts hard and doesn't idle smoothly. I figured the injectors needed attention, they probably (almost certainly) haven't been out of the engine in 205,000 miles so it was time. I used Bosio nozzles because they're made in Italy which means they're NOT made in China. Word on the street is that Bosch nozzles are made in China and the QC (quality control) is all over the map.

greazzer cleaned my spare injectors, installed the nozzles and calibrated everything. He did a great job, the price was right and turnaround was fast.

The install was pretty painless, it requires a 1 1/16" deep socket, a 14mm wrench, new heat shields, a pick to get the old heat shields out, and if your injector return lines are even questionable a meter of that. My return lines are viton I'd bought from McMaster-Carr, they were still pliable and no problem at all to reuse.

Anyway, an easy job and one most cars probably need. I spent around $250 total for my 4cyl car which seems pretty reasonable.

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Sadly Benz-less

Did it fix your problem?

1 1/16" deep socket= 27mm

The Bosch Nozzles for my Year and Model would be made in India.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I used Monarch nozzle as replacements. So far I'm very pleased. Made in Germany, I think.

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1991 350SDL 350k+ miles

I just sent Mark a set of Monarks that I bought 2yrs ago for my 85 300sd and never got around to putting in due to ALFREDS others wants and needs.
I look forward to receiving mine back and doing my install, I am looking for a 27mm deep socket.

Some say the new ones at Sears are to shallow so I am thinking about northern tool any input would be appreciated.

BTW; what is the torque setting for the injectors? And do I need to put a little Blue thread lock on?
Thanks
greazer2b

Alfred just turned 303,000

I bought a 27mm impact socket from HF. It worked fine. Torque to between 52 and 59 foot pounds with new heat shields. (make sure heat shields are turned the right way - groove facing up). I didn't torque the halves when I was balancing the injectors but the specs are the same, 52 to 59 foot pounds. I tightened the halves more than the spec called for because I was having slight leaks. After a lot of lapping and polishing, I finally got all 6 within 50 psi of each other and no leaks.
"The Colonel" as my daughter affectionately calls him, has 328k miles and counting. She drove "him" to college for 3 years and they became quite good friends.

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1991 350SDL 350k+ miles

And I did not use lock thread anywhere on it.

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1991 350SDL 350k+ miles

Maybe, seems better accelerating and it was starting better but today it gave me another hard start. I need to measure timing chain stretch although I think it got a new timing chain when I first got it. I bought it with a "broken timing chain" which turned out to be a broken timing chain cover. I seem to remember we did a chain but I don't know that for sure. Need to drive it more too.

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Sadly Benz-less

You can put some Never-Seize type compound on the threads of the Injector. That prevents rust.

The Torque of the Injector into the Prechamber is 70-80 Nm

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What's a 27mm socket? I thought everyone used 1 1/16", works good on the crank bolt too. Mine says "Mexico" on it, not sure if that's the brand.

27mm is the equivalent to 1 1/16 inch S.A.E.

Not easy to find a 27mm socket in some areas. I had to buy a 1 1/16 1/2 inch drive socket to fit on a breaker bar to remove the front crank nut. Hard to see in the pic, tho.

More than likely "Mexico" is the country of origin. My thin walled 10mm front shock socket is Mexican.

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83 SD

84 CD

I have one of the older Northern branded 1-1/16' deep socket that I used for the injectors and it was fine. The new Klutch sockets should be just as good.

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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon.

Maybe it was wrong of me, but I hit the crank bolt with an impact. Lol.

Going back in I got it tight as possible, put the car in gear and blocked it, and used the cars weight to torque it.

One thing I ran into was the return nozzles on the injector being in the way of the socket. First time I used a monster crescent. But then I realized I have two sets and tapped on the nipple with a chisel covered with a rag. It was quiet malleable and moved out of the way easily.

In regard to the OP I as well need to check my valve timing and IP timing. I've had an incident with removing a delivery valve before, and ended up rotating the barrel, which resulted in having the injector shop come out to my house. Not cheap. He just told me it's time to redeem myself and try again. Now days I'm more confident in pulling the IP if I mess up.

I need to clean the strainer in my tank. Already changed the other two filters.

I'm getting a head done and then will check my compression after installing and initial wear/valve adjustment. Then check valve timing and IP timing. Then put a set of injectors in.

If it doesn't start up smooth with no glow in warm weather after that I'll be very upset.

That's my order of operations for diagnosing this thing. Hope it helps

You need to spend a few bucks and get a torque wrench. They are currently on sale at HF for $20.

Perfect example is a 300D 02 sensor. Its not supposed to be reefed down. Its supposed to be torqued to about 60ft/lbs

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1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

Get a feel for ft/lbs and eventually you utilize the data for other non standard items. You start to learn how big of a bolt requires much force. And you have an feel the "stretch" in a bolt when it's right.

I used my cheap one for a long time on anything that supplied a torque value.

If you get into real serious stuff like head bolts, I only use a snap-on click type in in/lb increments. You can rent good ones when the time comes.

There are charts of standard torque values for various size/thread pitch fasteners, both English and metric. Both have head markings that tell you the hardness which you'll need to look up the generic specs. So until one develops the feel for torque (like, what a 5/16 or 8mm feels like at proper torque) you can look them up. The interesting thing is that most people WAY over-torque bolts or else try to tighten dirty/rusty fasteners and actually have NO IDEA how tight they are. I use my bench grinder-mounted wire brush and tap and die set a LOT to clean stuff up.

Dan