I let the 240D set out for 24 hour last week to check if it would crank up in the cold weather. Well, it started up ok, but i noticed some wet condition in front of the car. The tank seams were bad were it mated up with the coils. After, the last radiator issue on the 190E with the 2.6L in it. I didn't even hesitate on going new. I got a new Behr at a reasonable price by shopping. I replaced the hoses and the anti-freeze. After 32 years of use, imo it is the only way to go! Plus they wanted within 40 bucks of the price of the new one to repair the old one.

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Rebe

I bot a new one too when mine went out. Took me awhile to get all the antifreeze out of all the cracks & crevices of the engine. For some reason it really made a mess. I can't remember, is Behr OEM?

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'89 260e (212K Mi.), '92 400e (208K Mi.), '92 400e (not a misprint) (146K Mi.), '95 C220, '81 240D--Sold

Behr is the original OE on the radiator. This is another one called Nissan that is sold. They are supposed to be a quality replacement. They were some what cheaper in price, but I haven't checked them out lately.

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Rebe

I installed the Nissens one, it was at the time nearly $140 less than the BEHR one...I think, the quality of Nissens (made in Denmark) is better to be honest.

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1983 W123 300TD US spec Turbo engine, with Euro bumpers and manual climate control, and manual transmission.

Is there a torque value for the radiator necks for the hose connections? I have heard some threads of people cracking them. I am always myself a little conservative tightening up those little chancy hose clamps mercedes uses.

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Rebe

the common fix (which i have failed to execute so far) is to glue a reinforcement inside the nipple.

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

As I understand it, the cracked radiator necks come from age, heat and vibration -- not overtorquing any of the bolts.

Dkr.

i believe overtorquing the hose clamps on those nipples is the proximate cause of many of those cracks.

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

I have read, but not had a chance to actually see, that the newer Behr radiators have these metal reinforcements. I don't know if this is true, but I have also read that using the wrong coolant can weaken the plastic, or make it more brittle.

I did this as a preventive measure in the original Behr radiator 7 years ago, and it's held up fine. It might not be necessary, but I also plan to do it on my Nissens replacement radiator as well, before installing it next spring.

Use 1-inch copper type M plumbing pipe, which is the thickness/grade used for above ground, in walls. It fits perfectly, allowing just enough room for a good layer of epoxy, and is quite sturdy. I bought a foot of it a few months ago, for $4.29 + tax. About 2 inches is all that's needed. You can measure the inside of the hose stem/nipple to determine the exact length needed.

Use 36 grit sand paper to rough up the inside of the radiator nipple, and also rough up the outer surface of the piece of copper pipe. I used a hacksaw blade, and the sandpaper, to rough up the pipe surface.

Look for an epoxy that's made for bonding metals. Permatex Perma-Poxy 4-minute epoxy works fine. Once you get the right materials together, it's pretty easy to do.

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Marshall Welch
Seattle, WA
1982 300D-T

Along with age, heat and vibration, I stated this before and I do believe the failures are also promoted by the use of a worm drive hose clamp. When you look at all the newer vehicles, there is a wide spread use of plastic cooling parts in the engine. They have hoses connected with them with either by a spring clamp, aka "constant tension band" or the hose has a built in coupler. They don't use worm drive hose clamps any more.
The plastic necks have a tendency to expand then contract ever so slightly while the engine is running and with a traditional worm drive hose clamp, the expansion is hindered and stresses the plastic neck. With a constant tension band, the neck can expand and the band allows for proper camping force throughout it's expansion and contraction to keep the hose sealed.

So for this, I am all for having a spring clamp or constant tension band at least on the radiator side of the hoses.




Unfortunately they do not sell them new at your local parts store. They are basically application specific and usually you get them at the dealership. Now being application specific means your dealership will not have dimensions for you, only "what car does this belong to?"

So I've matched up these clamps at my local wrecking yard and the best fitting clamps have a "44" stamped on the tab. I found them inconsistently on mid to late nineties front drive GM 3100 engines and some Ford V6 cars. I also found the mid to late nineties Ford Ranger/Explorer V6 clamp with a "46" stamped on them fits, though a bit larger. Other possibilities are clamps from a late nineties Mitsubishi Montero and some Honda accords, though they are on the small size.




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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System