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  #16  
Old 12-02-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
That is correct. MB has designed their dipstick tube to be sealed to the pan and extend all the way to the bottom for this purpose. If you put the hose at the top of the tube you will have all the oil out in no time.
I see this statement frequently, and I do not belive it to be true. On my '97 E 300 D, I use a small plastic tube inside the dip stick tube, and if I push past where it hits the bottom of the pan,the tube will curl up in the crankcase and I can easily push in all the tube I have. It will actually get up to where it sucks air from above the oil level. This could not happen if the dip stick tube went nearly all the way to the pan. I have not sucked from the top of the dipstick tube and then removed the drain plug to see how much oil remains because my drain plug is in so firmly I suspect the threads are compromised. On this car, if I loosen the oil filter cap the filter will drain into the pan with no sucking involved. I am quite happy with the Topsider using the plastic tube inside the dip stick tube, although it does take awhile to suck it all out. Maybe 15 minutes with warm oil.

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  #17  
Old 12-02-2014, 07:58 PM
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If the vacuum pump is rated for flamible vapours I would have more confidence in using the tank more than just once. After each use the tank vapours you will be sucking through the system intensifies as does the risk of a small explosion. I'd be double checking that pump.
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  #18  
Old 12-02-2014, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
With a tight seal to the top of the dipstick tube, practically every drop of oil will come out into the extractor. If you are not pulling all the oil out then you are not getting a tight seal.
Topsider's dont have that ability out of the box. Small tube goes into the dipstick tube the length of the dipstick. I think I've read somewhere a mod to have pull just from the dipstick tube itself.

Dang Funola thats pretty quick. Now if you could figure out how to fill it at close to the same time that would be really something.
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  #19  
Old 12-03-2014, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by treetops View Post
Topsider's dont have that ability out of the box. Small tube goes into the dipstick tube the length of the dipstick. I think I've read somewhere a mod to have pull just from the dipstick tube itself.
...............
Yes, just about all of the commercial ones except the one called out in the FSM. Sucking out of the dipstick tube is the proper way to change oil on 617.9xx.
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  #20  
Old 12-03-2014, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
If the vacuum pump is rated for flamible vapours I would have more confidence in using the tank more than just once. After each use the tank vapours you will be sucking through the system intensifies as does the risk of a small explosion. I'd be double checking that pump.
Huh??? Flammable vapor? We are talking engine oil, not propane. There is zero chance of an explosion with the tank or pump evacuating engine oil.
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  #21  
Old 12-03-2014, 11:38 AM
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the sucking from the edge of the dipstick tube is the correct MB way - The dealerships also use a tool that has O rings and clips onto the dipstick tube, undo oil filter to let drain, open vacuum valve to suck oil and be done.

I really want to make this for myself.


p.s. I also use a simply orange bottle as a funnel, I have different bottles cut up for different cars, toyota/nissan etc take a milk 1/2 gallon cap bottle - it screws onto the engine for easy filling - most of them have the same baffle plate problem like VW has.
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  #22  
Old 12-03-2014, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Huh??? Flammable vapor? We are talking engine oil, not propane. There is zero chance of an explosion with the tank or pump evacuating engine oil.
We are talking the hydrocarbon vapours remaining in the tank. To create the tank vacuum all flammable vapours are being concentrated through the vacuum pump. Since the pump is likely not intrinsically safe the motor arks and sparks and this is where the system will explode. The air driven vacuum devices found on other units are designed to be intrinsically safe and are relatively inexpensive where a electrically driven vacuum pump that is intrinsically safe is not nearly as inexpensive.
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  #23  
Old 12-03-2014, 12:47 PM
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vacuum pumps with external motors like the one he is using are a non issue for flammable vapors... R134 and R410 are flammable refrigerants.
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  #24  
Old 12-03-2014, 01:10 PM
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Vacuum pumps used for refregriation are certified intrinsically safe. So long as the vacuum pump is certified as such you would be good. Uncertified you would just be waiting for the event to happen!
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  #25  
Old 12-03-2014, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jay_bob View Post
That is correct. MB has designed their dipstick tube to be sealed to the pan and extend all the way to the bottom for this purpose. If you put the hose at the top of the tube you will have all the oil out in no time.
I'll confess I was actually not aware of this. Is this true on all of these motors (i.e. OM606 in my W210 E300)?

If so, I'll have to modify my venturi vacuum sourced 5 gal evacuator with a hose to slide OVER my dipstick tube on this car and try this out!
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  #26  
Old 12-03-2014, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
Vacuum pumps used for refregriation are certified intrinsically safe. So long as the vacuum pump is certified as such you would be good. Uncertified you would just be waiting for the event to happen!
I think there at least two things wrong with that statement...
First.... that pump is safe when used in a CLOSED SYSTEM.... not tested or certified pulling potentially explosive gases into it...
Second.... a refrigerator pump is in the same category as an R4 with regards to Lubrication... it is lubed by the mix of oil in the refrigerant... which keeps going around the closed system.... so it will not last long if used without a relube designed into it....
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  #27  
Old 12-03-2014, 05:44 PM
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But in this application it is an open system when the tank is creating the initial vacuum. Just throwing any electrical vacuum pump in creates a hazard unless the pump is certified for the vapours.
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  #28  
Old 12-03-2014, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
We are talking the hydrocarbon vapours remaining in the tank. To create the tank vacuum all flammable vapours are being concentrated through the vacuum pump. Since the pump is likely not intrinsically safe the motor arks and sparks and this is where the system will explode. The air driven vacuum devices found on other units are designed to be intrinsically safe and are relatively inexpensive where a electrically driven vacuum pump that is intrinsically safe is not nearly as inexpensive.
What are you talking about? First of all, that is an empty helium tank being used to evacuate engine oil. Even it it was a refrigerant tank, it would be empty of refrigerant after the drilling and welding. What's the concern?
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  #29  
Old 12-03-2014, 08:38 PM
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By filling the tank with used engine oil those vapours are the concern even after the tank is emptied vapours exist perhaps you vent the tank for months between using which would be less of a concern but you do extract all the vapours through that pump.
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  #30  
Old 12-03-2014, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dieselbenz1 View Post
By filling the tank with used engine oil those vapours are the concern even after the tank is emptied vapours exist perhaps you vent the tank for months between using which would be less of a concern but you do extract all the vapours through that pump.
At first I thought you were worried about engine oil exploding, you said no, that you were worried about refrigerant. Since there is no refrigerant, now you are back to worrying about engine oil fumes exploding? There is no oil fumes in the tank or in the vacuum pump. If there were oil fumes, the clear 1/8 nylon vacuum line would be all black. It is nice and clear. Even if there were oil fumes, it would not explode. Don't worry!

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